Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2002 GT vert, 381 rwhp, 384 torque.
MM standard Lower Control Arms
Bilstein HD Shocks and Struts
Kenny Brown subframe connectors (just regular box ones)
Cobra front Brakes.
Steeda Splitter.
Otherwise I'm completely stock. springs, bushings, etc...

My car has 64k on it and I drive it daily. The first thing I'm investing in is some good sticky tires when the weather changes.

Some of the handling characteristics that I'm dealing with:
The rear always walks to the side once the wheels break loose.
The high roll makes me extremely nervous to take turns hard.

I'm not exactly loaded with cash but I want to incrementally improve my car without buying parts that I'm just gonna replace in the next step anyway. I'm looking for some good advice on the next few parts because I have no idea what to do next. Here are some ideas I'm tossing around. At this point I'm only looking for the next 1 or 2 parts to save up for.
Are CC plates extremely fundamental and important? (i.e. get those next)
Are springs the best bang/buck?
Would a PHB or watts-link be appropriate to do before either of the above?
Are these subframe connectors a complete waste and worth ditching for MM ones or EVM cross-brace?

I'd like the handling characteristics to just be safer for the moment and feel more predictable. I can't go too much lower because of the splitter which has about an inch of clearance right now when parking my car (and that's with stock springs and going in on an angle) which kinda stinks because I've got some serious wheel gap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,420 Posts
At the milage you have the first thing to do is rebuild the traction lock. This is most likely giving you some inside wheel spin. The second thing I would do is get a panhard bar or watts link. I'm partial to the watts link but tons of folks swear by the MM panhard bar. When you get ready to do springs plan on doing the front a-frame bushings and adding extended ball joints and a bumpsteer kit at the same time. CC plates will decrease the deflection you get from the rubber bushing in the stock camber plates but depending on your car you may be able to align it okay without them after the other mods. That EVM cross brace is not legal in any SCCA class except maybe CP. That should get you started.

I have:
C-springs w/1 coil cut off rears
Tokico Illuminas
watts link (homemade but please don't ask how)
teflon lower a-frame bushings in front, offset 5/16" forward (homemade)
UPR bumpsteer kit
X2 ball joints
stock camber plates

I'm able to get 1/2 degree of negative camber with the stock plates all the way out and 3 degrees negative all the way in with the holes slotted a little. Caster is around 4 1/2 degrees positive with the offset bushings. The car tracks true and rides very well. It's fairly competitive regionally in SM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
In the Watts Link (looking at the EvM model) do those arms connect to the Lower Control Arms? Watts link looks like the way to go (no arc in up and down motion) but it sure is alot of metal. I'm having a hard time conceptualizing how those brackets attach to the suspension. Also, is it going to be near impossible to service my differential with that thing in there?


Edit: Just called and asked. The brackets attach to the axel tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,420 Posts
Download their installation manual. It has a pic of the unit installed. Servicing the diff may be a problem the way that one is built. With that in mind you might want to bolt it in rather than weld it. I built mine so the brackets attach to the axle like theirs does but the frame part of mine just bolts up to the 4 unused holes in the frame rails outside of the gas tank so it is easily removed and nothing had to be drilled or welded to the car.

It took me 3 trys to get my pivot points located on the axle so they didn't bang on the exhaust pipes. My engineering sometimes becomes a trial and error thing. LOL The only slight problem with the one I made is the flat bar I have the pivot on can flex ever so slightly and my swaybar hits the posts the axle pivots connect to. I'm planning to correct that stuff the next time I reshim the diff. I'm glad this subject came u again because I was planning to do the diff soon and had forgot I wanted to refine those other 2 things.

Here is a photo of mine. Made a huge difference in how the car handles and feels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
fallstar01 said:
Some of the handling characteristics that I'm dealing with:
The rear always walks to the side once the wheels break loose.
The high roll makes me extremely nervous to take turns hard.
Han Solo has pretty much covered it.

To add another point of view, if the above quote is your major concern at the moment then a panhard bar or Watts Link will cure it.

I have the MM panhard bar and it pretty much eliminated the sideways walk. I can light 'em up and it tracks straight and true. The added rear-end predictability will make the body-roll a little less nerve racking.

Servicing the differential is no problem with the MM piece.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Both of you have been extremely helpful. Either a watts link or panhard bar is going to be my very next change. I was already thinking along those lines but I just needed to be reassured that it was right thing to go on next.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top