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Discussion Starter #1
I have a ~3000 pound 1989 LX coupe. 3200 with me.

It is 44% rear 56% front. Part of my weight issue is the block and turbo system. Some is the transmission (Hughes Superglide and 10.5 inch converter) and rear end (35 spline and braced) to handle the power.

My system makes a ton of power but I think my car is on the heavy side. It is a normal old 89 LX coupe with power windows.

I pulled:

1.) Most deadner
2.) Door bars
3.) front bumper and absorbers
4.) Stock K member
5.) Heater and A/C
6.) Windshield washer
7.) Cruise
8.) Power brakes
9.) Power steering
10.) Power front seats
11.) Steel hood
12.) Lead acid battery

I still have:

1.) Factory brakes including rotors w/Cobra back disks (49 lbs total rear brakes)
2.) All factory wiring
3.) Factory column (would like to keep)
4.) E-brake system
5.) Wipers
6.) Almost all of the interior
7.) Glass
8.) Carpeting
9.) Panels
10.) All fender liners
11.) medium heavy wheels
12.) All factory sheet metal everywhere
13.) Factory rear steel bumper
14.) Factory glass
15.) Aluminum exhaust to axle once past the downpipe

I have a $4000 budget. I run street classes. I'd like my car to not look threatening or fast. Right now it looks like a 6 or 7 second 1/8th mile car and I'd like it to look similar to the casual eye. I can weld.

In particular I would like it to look like factory glass and generally look slow. I am about at the practical horsepower limit of a mid-frame racing turbo.

Where is the best bang for my buck, especially the front??? It has to be able to cruise.
 

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First off sounds like you could drop 15lb lol sorry had to. Rear bumper support would go you can cut the front and back off at the frame and add light weight supports. They have a bracket in the headlight area also that can come out it small but its weight. In a few places where the ground effects come together it has some metal plates you can replace with with washer it will do the trick and drops a little. It all adds up. You could cut unbolt all the plastic out of the glovebox it would look normal when closed.
 
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Tubular frontend with lightweight struts/spindles.

ks
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Tubular frontend with lightweight struts/spindles.

ks
I wonder how much that would drop it? I have a Team Z K member. the only front end lightening is the fiberglass bumper is gone and the bumper shocks are gone.

The spindles and brakes are stock. All of the front metal is there. All of the fender liners are there.

What about all the factory wiring?

I'm not looking for 2 oz changes, I'm looking for multiple 20 pound changes.
 

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Your car does not sound heavy. Ok fiberglass or carbon doors. Trunk lid. Light weight battery..

Or u can cut out the floor. Think that will bring u over budget. Right after the driver seat back weighs a ton.
 

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Stock rear is about 28lbs and front about 17lbs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the full Team Z K member and AFCO strut coil overs in front.

I have aluminum racing seats.

I still have:

1.) Factory brakes including rotors w/Cobra back disks (49 lbs total rear brakes)
2.) All factory wiring
3.) Factory column (would like to keep)
4.) E-brake system
5.) Wipers
6.) Almost all of the interior
7.) Glass
8.) Carpeting
9.) Panels
10.) All fender liners
11.) medium heavy wheels
12.) All factory sheet metal everywhere
13.) Factory rear steel bumper
14.) Factory glass
15.) Aluminum exhaust to axle once past the downpipe
 

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The factory front rotors/calipers are heavy. Close to 35 lb loss on my car.
Replaced the rear bumper bar and cylinders (93) with a tube,32 lb.
Do you have the heater core /box ?
When I started running slicks on the street,i got rid of the wipers,a dozen lb.
 

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I wonder how much that would drop it? I have a Team Z K member. the only front end lightening is the fiberglass bumper is gone and the bumper shocks are gone.

The spindles and brakes are stock. All of the front metal is there. All of the fender liners are there.

What about all the factory wiring?

I'm not looking for 2 oz changes, I'm looking for multiple 20 pound changes.
Advertised, there is approx 63lbs just in the 417 kit:

https://forums.corral.net/forums/drag-racing/2351346-417-motorsports-tube-front-end.html

Now remove it farther and take it all back to the firewall, frame and all, and build it with 4130 tubing. Should be close to 100lbs total removed depending on how much welding wire you add back into the project..:D

ks
 

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There is a lot of weight in the little things. My 89 Saleen Hatch weighs 3,050 lbs with me in it. I weigh 245 lbs. It has 75 lbs of Kenne Bell S/C and custom inlet/outlet manifolds sitting on a Dart Iron Eagle block. I have 10 gallons of water in the rear for the I/C tank and Trans Cooler. I still have power windows, all original sheetmetal, all original glass, except for the hood (which weighs 18 lbs) and rear hatch and rear glass. Going to a Fiberglass hatch and Plexiglass window in the rear only saved 40 lbs. I also run a re-enforced 8.8 rear along with a P/G based trans with Reid Case and Bellhousing. I have front carpet, but no insulation, and Felt covering the rest of the floor. The front rear weight bias is 52 front 48 rear. If I run less than 3/4 tank of fuel (stock sumped tank) and less water in the I/C tank, I can get the car right at 3,00 lbs with me in it. Stock dash, stock steering column. Billet Specialties double bead lock 15x10 rear wheels and 15x4 front wheels. AeroSpace front brakes, Willwood rear brakes. Devil is in the details.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
There is a lot of weight in the little things. My 89 Saleen Hatch weighs 3,050 lbs with me in it. I weigh 245 lbs. It has 75 lbs of Kenne Bell S/C and custom inlet/outlet manifolds sitting on a Dart Iron Eagle block. I have 10 gallons of water in the rear for the I/C tank and Trans Cooler. I still have power windows, all original sheetmetal, all original glass, except for the hood (which weighs 18 lbs) and rear hatch and rear glass. Going to a Fiberglass hatch and Plexiglass window in the rear only saved 40 lbs. I also run a re-enforced 8.8 rear along with a P/G based trans with Reid Case and Bellhousing. I have front carpet, but no insulation, and Felt covering the rest of the floor. The front rear weight bias is 52 front 48 rear. If I run less than 3/4 tank of fuel (stock sumped tank) and less water in the I/C tank, I can get the car right at 3,00 lbs with me in it. Stock dash, stock steering column. Billet Specialties double bead lock 15x10 rear wheels and 15x4 front wheels. AeroSpace front brakes, Willwood rear brakes. Devil is in the details.
This is interesting. It sounds like we have similar cars except mine is a turbo and a coupe.

My heater box is already gone. I have to keep the wipers, it has to stay street legal. I have the door bars out, lighter and safer seats, and no heater box or A/C. No front bumper. Fiberglass hood. Team Z K member. Front coil over AFCO struts. Manual rack.

Everything else is pretty much in the car. All the brakes (except for a manual cylinder) and sheet metal is stock. I haven't drilled or cut or lightened.

I've been pondering all this. I think I have to do a lot of work to make any worthwhile change. I could change the brakes pretty easy, but it looks like several hundred dollars for what...maybe 30 pounds? That's like adding 1% more power. :)
 

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What are your goals?

Why remove weight, are you wanting to go faster?

Personally I don't like to see street cars that are butchered all up just to go a tad faster. I'm more impressed with something that looks like a street car that is damn fast. Turbos are easy to go faster..just add boost.

My guess is that you are craving something to do and feel that cutting up the car will give you something creative to do and make it faster.

How about this: Add traction control to that beast! I'm doing this to mine but I have other priorities at the moment so I haven't gotten real far with it.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What are your goals?

Why remove weight, are you wanting to go faster?
I want to go faster on no prep or poor prep. That means shifting weight to the rear by getting the front light.

I don't want the car to look fast. I prefer it to look like a 7 second car.
 

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I have the Scott Rod aluminum door panels (black) in place of the stock door panels. They look nice and weigh less. While I do have the stock dash, the stock dash harness has been removed along with all un-necessary mounting clips and tabs ect. The power door locks and wiring have been removed, the power mirror wiring has been removed, the rear view mirror has been removed, all speakers and wiring removed ect ect.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgfXUfJUD2qogwLUYsnPmqBLie1t

Pardon the mess, I was in the process of doing some work on the inside, but this pic gives an idea. Still looks relatively stock.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I probably won't do the door panels, but after I straighten out some sheet metal around where my turbo mounts I am going to change the front brakes.

I'm glad I pulled things apart. I found a water line for the intercooler being pinched by the PS fender liner. I cut a bunch of welded patches out of the inner fender and I'm going to use a single smooth aluminum sheet. Not so much for weight but for clearance, improve the air inlet, and appearance.

I need to pull the wiring and get rid of all the unused stuff. The power locks can go, they aren't reliable anyway. The power windows and speaker system will stay.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Your car looks nice and clean...btw. Good job.
 
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When I went to a stand alone engine management system, I felt there was no need for the factory harness as the Fast data-logs everything I need to see. Plus no one is spending time looking at gauges when running low 5's in the 1/8 mile. Only thing I "look" for is the flash of the shift light in my peripheral vision. Everything else is happening to fast to take your eyes off of the track. I will look at the center vent gauges on the trip back down the return road, oil pressure, water temp and such. BTW, the stock factory harness that goes under the dash, from instrument cluster to fuse box ect. to engine harness was damn near 15 lbs if memory serves.
 
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