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Discussion Starter #4
Just like a regular threaded nut.......righty tighty/lefty loosey...;)

Just go 1 flat of the nut at a time..
I know that part - I meant do I shorten or lengthen the passenger side upper?

;)
 

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lengthen the passenger side.

or move weight to the drivers side.
 

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lengthen the right upper arm. Or shorten the left upper.

Why?

When you SHORTEN the right arm, it sucks the tire up into the wheel house a little, which in turn allows that corner of the car to sit slightly lower-which puts more weight on that corner. More weight on the right rear means it will have more traction on that tire; consequently making the car drive LEFT a little.

You need to LENGTHEN the right side just a little....
 

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If the car goes right, SHORTEN the upper right arm!! Thats why I said...right is tighten, left is loosen...
If the car is driving to the right, the upper passenger arm needs to be longer to square the rear with the chassis. If he shortened the passengers upper arm, it would #### the rear end even more to the left, driving the car harder to the right. Check center to center of each side from front to back. The drivers side wheel base is probably shorter. Lengthening the passeners upper arm or shortening the drivers upper arm will square the rear end. What ever you need to do to center both rear tires in the wheel well. Make certain it hasn't messed up your pinion angle. The lower control arms locate the rear end, while the uppers adust pinion angle. All of them may need to be adusted to properly square the rear end and keep the pinion angle where you need it. James
 

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As hard as the car went Rt I would check to make sure the rear is in the car straight. Use a lazer string down the sides of it and see what you have. Kind of looks like it is driving rt all the way down.

Then shorten the upper rh arm from there.

also make sure tire pressure is spot on.

I have not needed to make many changes on a car to the upppers once the rear is square in the car.

Then get a arb and quit messing with the uppers.

Tim
 

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Roger that, I sit corrected.

I could have sworn I posted on the circumference of the rear tires also. Tim touched on this. If the tire pressure is off it can pull to one side or the other. Check the circumference of each rear tires and make sure they are the same. If not, you have to over inflate the smaller one, let it sit, then deflate it to the proper psi and remeasure. Hope this helps, James
 

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Good reading! Thanks, as I will be tuning my Team Z setup in the early spring and i am sure will be learning alot! James
Yes it is, some good info on setup with a 4 link. Anyone that has a fully adjustable rear suspension should print the link........makes for a simple setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes it is, some good info on setup with a 4 link. Anyone that has a fully adjustable rear suspension should print the link........makes for a simple setup.
Great reading - thank you!
 

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Yes it is, some good info on setup with a 4 link. Anyone that has a fully adjustable rear suspension should print the link........makes for a simple setup.
I am taking my chassis to have a few final adjustments and the motor plate/mid plates added. Maybe Joey Martin will set up the rear for me. He might want to wait until the engine/tranny, battery and wiring are in it so he can scale it. I don't know...I'll ask him next week. I just measured the old control arms and set Dave's adjustable stuff up according to the stock arms and slapped the rear back under the car. Hopefully, my car will be ready for Bradenton next year. Sending the intake to Steve Johnson for three foggers today! :joy: James
 

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Please read line 6 on page 4 of this link...
That information at the link (referenced above) from Competition Engineering is for a true 4 link chassis style car. Not the triangulated 4-link that is under the Mustangs.

In a mustang you cannot control preload with the upper control arms. The upper control arms only control 2 things. They set the pinion angle and they center the rearend side to side in the car. That is it. If you turn one of your upper control arms, all that happens is it moves the rearend to one side or the other depending on which way you turned it. This is due to the fact the uppers are triangulated, which prevents the rearend from moving from side to side in the car. That is why they do not require a panhard bar or track locater as required in a true 4-link chassis car. The lower control arms center the rearing front to back in the car.
 

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Dan, so what would be the proper way to adjust the control arms if the car pulls to the right, passengers lower control arm lengthened? James
 

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That information at the link (referenced above) from Competition Engineering is for a true 4 link chassis style car. Not the triangulated 4-link that is under the Mustangs.

In a mustang you cannot control preload with the upper control arms. The upper control arms only control 2 things. They set the pinion angle and they center the rearend side to side in the car. That is it. If you turn one of your upper control arms, all that happens is it moves the rearend to one side or the other depending on which way you turned it. This is due to the fact the uppers are triangulated, which prevents the rearend from moving from side to side in the car. That is why they do not require a panhard bar or track locater as required in a true 4-link chassis car. The lower control arms center the rearing front to back in the car.
Dan, dont you control preload with the ARB? James
 

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