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Discussion Starter #21
I'm biding my time saving up for the machine shop by tearing into the transmission. Anyone here know the TR-6060/T-56 Magnum very well? Got it for $350 with a loose input shaft. Picked up a bearing set for $100. Popped open the case and found the magnet all sort of goopy.



There was a general shiny paste, and then a bunch of little chunks.



I was confused as I continued pulling things apart - all of the gears looked flawless, the synchros were all surprisingly in great shape, nothing looked like it was missing anything. Until I took a second look at the input end of the output shaft - that's not a cast cap, that's a hardened bearing race that's been beat to ****.



And the corresponding outer race:



That's supposed to be a caged tapered roller bearing. I was able to get a bearing splitter behind the inner race, after some sharpening of the splitter and much swearing.



The outer race took even more swearing and some work with the Dremel, but I finally got it out. Those two things took about 2.5 hours.



So those chunks were the old rollers, and the shiny schmutz was the cage, ground down to a fine paste.

Because that bearing was totally MIA, the input and output shaft were free to bang around on each other. I'll probably end up replacing one set of synchros as its tabs were getting beat to death by the input shaft.



With that pulled, I can continue disassembling the shafts enough to get new bearings on there. There is one bearing in the tailshaft that I can't get out - it has an internal snap ring, but with no holes to get it out, just tabs. My kit came with a replacement but I don't know if I care enough to have that fight and get the bearing out.

I may need new shims to get the shaft preload correct, but the only set I can find is $50. I went through this same thing thing with my T5 and couldn't find anything less than the entire kit when I only need 1 or 2 shims. I'm in no rush right now so I can assemble, measure, and order just the shims I need if I can find a source.
 

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That "paste" around the trans drain plug is crazy! I've never seen something like that.
 

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Another good way to remove an inner race in a blind hole is to weld a bead on the bearing face of the race, most of the time it will fall right out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Brilliant idea! I know they make bearing pullers that will catch on the tiniest lip of an outer race, but I didn't have one on hand to try, and this thing had been beat so smooth that there really wasn't any lip left.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Found a pic of when I brought the transmission home.



Went back and found the original emails from Craigslist - it was running when it was pulled from the '07 GT500, but had trouble going into 2nd and 5th or 6th. The 2nd gear is obvious as that pocket bearing was trashed and the synchro was off its seat. The 5th or 6th synchro (can't remember which one) had some visible wear on it. If I bought the upgraded hybrid synchros it'd be about $286, in addition to the $100 I spent on the bearing set. That eats into my machine shop budget but it's something I should do while I'm in here. I'd hate to put it all back together and find that it won't go into gear.
 

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Sucks but it’ll be better than dealing with a bad shifting trans and pulling it out later when you could be driving the ol gal
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here's an interesting test I stumbled on:

  • 427 LS7
  • Speedmaster IR intake with 50mm runners
  • TFS Gen X 260 heads (flow 375/249 @ 0.600), ports are 2.4" x 1.37"
That's more displacement, a little more runner diameter, and a lot more head than I have. The 50mm TBs expand to a decently sized head intake port, and apparently it's not a bad thing. I'd be really interested to see what the manifold looks like between the TB and the head.

The 50mm runners have no issue supporting 640hp, which is encouraging.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Continuing to pull the mainshaft assembly apart. The internet tells me that this bearing is hard to get off, I don't disagree. I grabbed some longer 7/16" grade 5 bolts so that I could get my bearing splitter to bite on it, the bolts just bent.


Had to build up a high-stakes Jenga tower to get the shaft in the press.


I ended up using a Dremel to cut the cage off of the bearing, then the bearing splitter was able to bite on the outside lip of the bearing and it pressed off.


Got my new synchros in yesterday, oddly they look worn in? Is that something Tremec does to seat them? They were advertised as new and came in Tremec-labeled packaging.


Old on the left, new on the right. The new one is the hybrid style with the carbon inner surface, but the outer surface looks worn.


 

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Discussion Starter #30
With Tremec's blessing, I started reassembly. The input shaft was already done, so I slammed the mainshaft together up to the mid-case bearing. I put the new bearing in the oven while I tried to figure out which gear goes where. By the time I figured that out, I was able to drop the bearing straight into place. I nudged it with the press to make sure it was seated, and it was good to go.

With a bit of the table cleared off, I turned to the countershaft. Because its largest gear could slip between the beams in my press, it was much easier to knock those bearings off. New bearings went into the oven, outer races went into the freezer.





Everything went on fairly easily and I was able to put the input, main, and countershafts into place.





I spent some time cleaning up all of the mating surfaces and ran through my third can of brake parts cleaner. I had to use carb cleaner to blast the spooge off of the magnets, need to grab more brake cleaner tonight. I have the case in place, I need to torque down the bolts and then measure for shims. I'm also trying to figure out how to buy individual shims instead of blowing $50 on the full pack just to get the two I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I still have the remainder of my T5 shim pack from when I did that input shaft bearing a couple years back...these gears are a lot bigger. Maybe I'll give the guy a call and see if he has a source.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hoo boy. Just measured the end play on my main and counter shafts. Mainshaft play is 0.040", countershaft play is 0.035". Tremec spec calls for 0.0005 - 0.0035" of preload on both.



I measured the shims I pulled out when I disassembled the thing - mainshaft shim is 0.0405", countershaft shim is 0.0355"...giving me exactly 0.0005" of preload on both. Bottom of spec is...technically still in spec.

In theory, a little more preload would be okay and let the bearings open up a bit over time.

I suppose I can throw it together with the bearings and confirm no play and if so, just send it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Ordered a shim set from Hanlon for $40 and a new countershaft end bearing, since I couldn't leave well enough alone and messed up the old one pulling it out. The replacement in my kit didn't have the little funnel that routes oil from inside the countershaft to the mainshaft bearing. Those should be here this week, hoping to get the trans buttoned up since racing season starts soon and I need to get the M3 ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
It took two tries, but I got the case installed onto the bellhousing and I can engage 1st-4th gears. I think the first time I tried to cycle through the gears before installing the shift guide pins and one of the levers popped off. Didn't make that mistake twice.



I had good help.









Next up is to slam 5th, 6th, and R into place and toss on the tailhousing and call it good.

My garage smells like ATF.
 

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So what did you wind up with for preloads? Built an A5 recently, set preloads on main/input and cluster both to .003". While watching a video building a T5, it was pointed out that end play in an assembly that uses tapered roller bearings introduces lateral play into those assemblies. Obviously not good to allow gear spread in a high output gearbox. Astro recommends .003, so that's what I did.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I went with 0.003 as well. Thinking about throwing the rest of these shims on eBay individually or in like 5 packs. I would have gladly paid $10-15 for the one shim I needed vs. buying the whole kit.

Got the rest of it put together yesterday.

I threw the pressed-on 5th, 6th, and reverse gears into the oven to warm them up. Garage thermostat is at 55. The first one went on a little ways, but not far. I put some 3/8" allthread into the threaded portion of the mainshaft, slipped some aluminum tube over it, and used a thick nut to press it on the rest of the way.



The allthread stripped twice and pulled out of the mainshaft, had to slice off the end of the allthread and try again, but I eventually got it seated. Fifth gear was next, and had spent a lot more time in the oven. I slipped it over the top and it dropped straight on all the way down. Nice! Except oops, I forgot to put the 5/6th shift fork in place, which has to happen before 5th gear goes on. Okay, pull 5th back off. OOPS it cooled enough in just a few seconds that it was super stuck on already. So I had to break the puller back out and crank it all the way back off. Killed a good half hour on that way. I assume if I'd let 6th heat up a bit more it would have been a bit easier and I could have saved the 20-30 minutes that thing took as well.

Eventually got everything put back together.







Threw the tailshaft housing and shift cover back on and torqued everything to spec. Done!



Given the recent...economic uncertainty...I'm holding off on blowing $1100+ on the engine machine work. I still have a bunch of the body to put together, and I can start adapting the intake to the throttle bodies since I already have almost all of those parts. So there's plenty to do while I wait to see how all of this shakes out and if it makes sense for me to spend any more money.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Looks like the engine build likely won't happen this year - new washer/dryer in April, new furnace/AC this month, so at this point given the economic uncertainty, we'd rather hoard cash than blow it on a terrible idea for a laugh.

I did get the Cougar all put together for the first time last week. This poor thing got smashed to hell in the short time it was on the road. Any reasonable person would have junked it, but I'm far from a reasonable person.





My friend dug out a picture from when he first picked it up:



What a pile!

It did drive up and down the block and went better than I expected. It's already titled and registered, I got insurance quotes yesterday so I can take it on a real test drive the next time it's sunny out (no door glass yet). Maybe I'll take it as-is to a Cars and Coffee (if those ever happen again) and park it next to something nice.
 
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