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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone,

I'm in the process of putting in an MM k-member. I'm replacing my rack and pinion at the same time. Anyone do both together? Any thoughts on whether it would be easier to install the rack on the k-member before the k-member goes in the car? I've installed offset bushings in car before (though those were poly and the new ones are aluminum) and it was a real PITA doing it by myself (which is probably how it will happen again). I figured since the hydraulic lines had to be opened up anyway, it may be easier to get everything aligned on the bench as opposed to upside down on my back on the floor.

Thanks for the input.
 

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I am doing this right now, and still need to install the rack. I think it would have been alot easier to install the rack first, then the whole assembly.
 

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Put the K on first and get it all centered and squared, then install the rack and make adjustments as necessary to locate it properly under the oil pan.
 

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If you install the rack onto the k-member and then raise the entire k-member assembly up to the chassis for installation, you are going to have a very hard time connecting the steering shaft to the rack. Also, once the steering shaft is connected to the rack, that is going to make it very difficult to make small adjustments in the location of the k-member to get it square to the rear axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was under the car earlier today and I can see that it would be difficult to make adjustments and install the steering shaft like that. I also see another potential problem. This car has the standard bushings and the 7qt pan that's in there is dang close to the rack in the standard position. Not so sure it's gonna allow me to offset it up without hitting the pan but I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the input.
 

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What do ya mean by making adjustments to the kmember? I just droped my entire front suspensions from my roller to install a D&D kmember, going to the autoparts tomorrow to get a new rack, who knows how old the one on there is!, its not leaking but im not willing to take the chance. ANY input on these adjustments or what to look for. THE kmeber bolted right up? What more is there to adjust?
 

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You need to "square the chassis".

Hang plumb lines from various points of the car, so that the k-member and rear axle are are true to the frame (not a trapezoid).
The k-member is bolted on one side, but has elongated hole on opposite side, so taht you can adjust fore/aft to make it square.
 

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If you install the Kmember with the rack on it, you won't be able to get the bolts in the front holes for the Aarms. So you'd have to intall the Kmember with the rack AND Aarms on. I would not try that. Unless MM's is somehow different from Griggs in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Funny thing is that many guys at the shops pull the whole k-member at once as a unit for certain under car engine repairs. Some pull it to remove the engine instead of going in through the top. I'm sure if I had some help, we could get everything up there as a unit but I'm just gonna put the k-member up and work on the rest after. I finally got everything off the stock piece on Tuesday and am hoping to borrow an engine truss tomorrow. If I can get the truss set up, I'll be pulling the old k-member on Monday (I've gotta seal up the oil pan that leaked right out of the box while I'm under there). Then begins the fun of installing everything back on. The a-arms and such should be cake but again, I hate working on the rack under the car with a passion, especially considering how tight everything is. I'm gonna try to get the rack on before I lower the engine back onto the k-member and hope it clears the pan.
 

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You need to "square the chassis".

Hang plumb lines from various points of the car, so that the k-member and rear axle are are true to the frame (not a trapezoid).
The k-member is bolted on one side, but has elongated hole on opposite side, so taht you can adjust fore/aft to make it square.
Assuming your axle is true to the frame to begin with! ;)
 
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