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picked up a 70k mile LQ4 tonight .. going with a victor jr and a pro systems carb .. sugestions on cam and heads ..plz
 

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picked up a 70k mile LQ4 tonight .. going with a victor jr and a pro systems carb .. sugestions on cam and heads ..plz
For the $ your going to put into a victor jr and good carb, just keep it EFI and run a Edelbrock Pro-Flo XT LS Intake or FAST intake /w a 90mm TB and a conversion wiring harness.

It costs no more to go EFI compared to a good carb setup: (mainly because most good carbs cost $$, then a MSD harness/ignition to run it with a carb, carb intake, etc)...


Best thing you can do to make good power for the $ on a LQ4 in my opinion is the following. It will give you about 525-550 flyweel horsepower very easily to start with:

You're starting with 9.4:1 approx /w -8cc dish piston. So swapping heads fixes the low compression and adds a ton of power.

1) Yank the 317 heads, ebay the complete truck EFI intake setup for $150 buy it now, sell the 317 heads for $225-250 on ebay, sell truck oil pan for $75+ on ebay

2) Order a set of CNC 5.3l heads milled to 59cc (I recommend PRC Stg 2.5 5.3l heads /w double springs-###. retainers) for $1250 new. This will give you about 10.7:1 compression

3) I recommend 11:1 compression on 91 or 93 octane, so order .040 Cometic head gaskets (thinner than the factory MLS .054 thickness). This will give excellent quench and approx 11:1 compression which is no problem on pump gas.

4) Camshaft should be a 23x/24x grind with just over .600 lift. You cant run the biggest stuff with stock pistons (no valve reliefs) without flycutting the pistons. I would recommend a Comp XE-R lobed 238/242. If you go carb, run 111 approx LSA. No reason to run any smaller really unless you want a really mild driver setup. I would run a 224/230 if you are looking for a mild setup..no reason for anything smaller unless you want it to idle like a stock truck.

5) Put in a Melling 10296 Oil Pump when you swap the parts ($140 or so) and a LS2 timing chain ($40). Youll see great oil pressure and no worries with that setup.

6) Stock coils, NGK TR6 plugs with 11:1, TR55's if you run under 10.75 or so on pump gas. MSD wires (best resistance of any ive tested)

7) Swap to a stock Fbody oil pan/windage tray/pickup
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cool thanks cant wait to start tearing into this thing
 

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Aidan Im glad that you're
still around! This is the best advice I've
seen so far, step by step. can't
go wrong with that! Personally I would do the carb...but that's just me.
 

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Where did you find the motor and what did it set you back if you dont mind me asking.

If you dont wanna post the info in the thread, shoot me a PM
 

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Discussion Starter #7
what if i was to shave .030 off my 317 castings ? what would i get for comp? and would i have P,V clearence problems with .654/.609 lift cam ?
 

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what if i was to shave .030 off my 317 castings ? what would i get for comp? and would i have P,V clearence problems with .654/.609 lift cam ?

If your looking to add compression and not spend the money on good cnc heads. Youd have to shave a TON off the heads to get the compression up (70cc on 317 head versus 64 cc on the following heads.

Sell your 317's ($200-$250)

Buy a set of stock 5.3l truck heads ($100) and shave those to 59cc OR

Buy a set of stock 243/799 LS6 castings shave to 62cc ($400) and will make 15 horsepower more than the 5.3l heads.


You could also go the L92 head route (about $500-$600 used for a set) , shave those .040 and go with a L92 port carb intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If your looking to add compression and not spend the money on good cnc heads. Youd have to shave a TON off the heads to get the compression up (70cc on 317 head versus 64 cc on the following heads.

Sell your 317's ($200-$250)

Buy a set of stock 5.3l truck heads ($100) and shave those to 59cc OR

Buy a set of stock 243/799 LS6 castings shave to 62cc ($400) and will make 15 horsepower more than the 5.3l heads.


You could also go the L92 head route (about $500-$600 used for a set) , shave those .040 and go with a L92 port carb intake.
i decieded to go with texas speed's ported ls6 stg 2.5 heads and one of there cams .654/.609 235/240 dur , heads come with pushrods and the right valve springs , they claim 525-540 fwhp .
 

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I dont think that cam will clear piston-to-valve with those heads without flycutting the pistons. Youll want to drop back to a lower lift intake lobe without flycutting. Heads do not include pushrods.

Weve never seen any horsepower difference from their 5.3l heads versus LS6 heads. I would recommend you save the money and get the 5.3l casting ones (alot cheaper too due to casting costs).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont think that cam will clear piston-to-valve with those heads without flycutting the pistons. Youll want to drop back to a lower lift intake lobe without flycutting. Heads do not include pushrods.

Weve never seen any horsepower difference from their 5.3l heads versus LS6 heads. I would recommend you save the money and get the 5.3l casting ones (alot cheaper too due to casting costs).
the guy i talked to at texasspeed said with the shorter duration cam ,piston to valve clearence will be fine .. and he said the head comb does come with pushrods .

your qoute
"Weve never seen any horsepower difference from their 5.3l heads versus LS6"
do you have a shop that you do R&d on different heads and cam combo
's
 

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Discussion Starter #12
some pics


 

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the guy i talked to at texasspeed said with the shorter duration cam ,piston to valve clearence will be fine .. and he said the head comb does come with pushrods .

your qoute
"Weve never seen any horsepower difference from their 5.3l heads versus LS6"
do you have a shop that you do R&d on different heads and cam combo
's

Ive had a LS1 performance shop for about twice as long as Texas Speed has been in business....just be careful who you listen to on the phone. Their "phone guys" spend 8 hours a day on the phone with customers and in my opinion dont have the hands on experience to gaurantee anything. You probably spoke to "Matt or John". They usually have to put you on hold and ask one of the owners/managers when you ask detailed questions etc.

Dont take anyones "word" for it that there will be no piston to valve clearance. The cam you refer to is their "Tsunami" cam probably. with those heads and .650+ lift, I dont think it will clear piston/valve.

A complete heads/cam kit will probably come with pushrods. Just ordering heads will not. If you're basing your advice on what they say then I wont put my input in on what you need and good luck with your project :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ive had a LS1 performance shop for about twice as long as Texas Speed has been in business....just be careful who you listen to on the phone. Their "phone guys" spend 8 hours a day on the phone with customers and in my opinion dont have the hands on experience to gaurantee anything. You probably spoke to "Matt or John". They usually have to put you on hold and ask one of the owners/managers when you ask detailed questions etc.

Dont take anyones "word" for it that there will be no piston to valve clearance. The cam you refer to is their "Tsunami" cam probably. with those heads and .650+ lift, I dont think it will clear piston/valve.

A complete heads/cam kit will probably come with pushrods. Just ordering heads will not. If you're basing your advice on what they say then I wont put my input in on what you need and good luck with your project :)

didnt mean to offend you , i'm a chevy guy , just need to the LS family and just try'in to get advise were i can .. i havent made a choice of what/who i'm going with... just gathering info and try'in to build a fast ls STANG.
 

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No offense taken in anyway. Ive just seen alot of guys get stuck with parts that dont work because the phone order guy at alot of shops will tell you what you wanna hear in order to sell you parts.
 

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No offense taken in anyway. Ive just seen alot of guys get stuck with parts that dont work because the phone order guy at alot of shops will tell you what you wanna hear in order to sell you parts.
so in your experiance .. what lift and dur do need to clear p/v ?
 

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i was going to build a 408w until i found this section I'm really thinking about it. can you do a step by step swap. i see your going carb thats the way i would do it, how do you run the ignition? do you still use the individual coils?
 

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, how do you run the ignition? do you still use the individual coils?
you need to get a MSD6010 box plugs into you crank sensor , and yes you still need to run individual coil.
 

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i was going to build a 408w until i found this section I'm really thinking about it. can you do a step by step swap. i see your going carb thats the way i would do it, how do you run the ignition? do you still use the individual coils?
it plugs into both coil packs,crank sensor,cam sensor,ground it and run a 12 volt switch source....simple as that.
 

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awesome, sounds easy enough, thanks for the info, i really think im going to go this route. what about the alternator? do they make a one wire that bolts up to the stock bracket? why did you do with a lq4 over a lq9? i learning about these engines as we go. are you using a AJE k member?
 
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