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Well finally got done.I had a mechanic install the water pump,not too much of a deal,i installed the thermostat.I tried a Hyperstat 160 degree.I let the car idle.The temp gauge hit the M then A and worked its way up to the L .I shut the car off,checked the lower rad hose,still stone cold.I waited for 20 minutes to cool down,i took out the hyperstat.I just try and compare the two, with the stocker you can compress it very easily,with the hyperstat you have to be a gorrila,i had another stock stat so i put that in. Since the install the weather hasn,t gotten above 20degrees but the car does seem to run a little cooler.At idle it sits at dead center of the R Thats lower than before,on the higway the temps come down faster if you race. I also had KYB-AGX shocks installed.I and my wife and child find them way easier on the body than the stockers.With them set on full soft front and back the ride is comfortable,on full hard on my own racing a very noticable differance.Next mod is next week,Firestone Firehawk SZ50 ep.
 

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Hey,

I know this is an old post, but I wanted to warn you. I just got off the phone with Evans Cooling. I will be running one of their pumps and NPG+ coolant. The coolant was delivered with a handbook that said if you are running an Evans pump, you MUST, MUST, MUST use either their thermostat. Or, you can use any replacement thermostat, but you have to drill two 1/8 inch holes in it prior to install. I called to verify this and they said, yep, reason is the Evans pump flows so much more, that it build up too much pressure/backpressure if some cooant isn't allowed to flow immediately. Check it out.
 

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96GTCONV said:
Hey,

I know this is an old post, but I wanted to warn you. I just got off the phone with Evans Cooling. I will be running one of their pumps and NPG+ coolant. The coolant was delivered with a handbook that said if you are running an Evans pump, you MUST, MUST, MUST use either their thermostat. Or, you can use any replacement thermostat, but you have to drill two 1/8 inch holes in it prior to install. I called to verify this and they said, yep, reason is the Evans pump flows so much more, that it build up too much pressure/backpressure if some cooant isn't allowed to flow immediately. Check it out.

Really? I installed their pump and using normal coolant, didn't do this, and don't seem to have problems. But maybe I do...

If this is the case, they need to improve their instructions.

PS... thanks for the tip!!
 

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I called Evans and talked to someone for a bit today to figure this out.

He said the hole drilling may help or it may not, at least on the 4V application using normal coolant. [Maybe it's different for a 2V, or maybe different people there have different ideas]. Something about bleeding air out better and heating up faster, but at the expense of giving up some pressure, which is what you want to keep up.

On another note, I asked him for more info about the Evans pump.

o He said it flows more than the stock at high rpms while drawing about 3hp less than stock. At low rpms he said it may actually flow less than stock, he wasn't sure.

o He said the stock inlet to the pump is a restriction which can distrupt cooling and the Evans pump reduces the significance of this.
 

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Glad I found this -- I have an Evans pump in my new engine and will be using NPG+. The manual that came with the pump didn't say anything about needing to use one of their thermostats, only that you had to leave the weep hole plugged if running NPG+. Also the guy I ordered it from at Evans never mentioned this.

What exactly happens if you run and Evans pump and NPG+ with an ordinary thermostat (pressure blows a hose?)?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #7
96GTCONV said:
Also, you know if you run regular coolant through their pump, you need to remove one of the weephole plugs, right?
Hi, i thought it was the other way round,if you are right and you remove one of the weep hole plugs do you have to run a line from "it" to "where"? Do you know whereabouts on the thermostat are you supposed to drill these holes?Seeing that i have a couple of spares maybe i,ll try it and let you know if it works.One last thing,the AGX shocks work great ,anyone looking to replace the stock ones for a moderate price won,t go far wrong with these,this week i have the Firehawk SZ 50 ep,s going on.I,m trying 255/45/17 so if anyone is interested in how they perform drop me a line in a couple of days for first impressions.
 

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Geez, I was having the same cooling probs, and I ended up just removing my thermostat completely. Now it runs perfect, cool but not cold. Temp gauge gets to the "N" after 10 minutes of driving and doesn't go above the "R" even on 80 degree days.
 

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xs-speed
You do not need to run a line from the weep hole if removed. I do not know exactly where the holes get drilled in the thermostat. Give Evans a call and they will walk you through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pat96Cobra said:
Geez, I was having the same cooling probs, and I ended up just removing my thermostat completely. Now it runs perfect, cool but not cold. Temp gauge gets to the "N" after 10 minutes of driving and doesn't go above the "R" even on 80 degree days.
Thanks for the replys.My car never went above the "N" even with the blower.It only started to do this since the aftercooler was installed.I,m just wondering if its the extra boost from the smaller pulley thats heating up the air.Pat96Cobra,is your car supercharged?If not there is a lot of difference to the inlet temperature of an N/A cobra to a blown one but,,,,,i may try your trick of removing the thermostat once it stops SNOWING up here again.
 

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I just got off the phone with Evans. Here are my notes:

There is an issue with the thermostat excessively restricting the flow of NPG+ coolant. Evans is working on a "hi-flow" thermostat to correct the problem (no ETA). In the meantime there are a couple of work-arounds:

1.) Increase the flow rate through the thermostat by drilling a couple of holes in the metal flange around the outside diameter of the thermostat. This would be a couple of 1/8" (max) holes, no larger. This is to increase the flow rate of the thermostat and make it less restrictive.

-or-

2.) Plug the bypass and remove the thermostat entirely. This would involve figuring out a way to plug up the hole in the casting (block?) that the disk (approx. 1") on the bottom of the thermostat sits in. Don't use a piece of rubber, it will be degraded by the heat and come apart. Car will *not* run too hot since NPG+ has better cooling properties than water. In the event it does run hot, and if you're using an aftermarket chip, you can program it to turn on the fan at 160 degrees or so.

Personally, these sound a bit like band-aids and don't increase my comfort level with using NPG+. I hope they get those hi-flow thermostats ready soon...

Chris
 

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xs-speed said:
.Pat96Cobra,is your car supercharged?If not there is a lot of difference to the inlet temperature of an N/A cobra to a blown one but,,,,,i may try your trick of removing the thermostat once it stops SNOWING up here again.
Nope my car is naturally aspirated. I would think removing the thermostat on a blown car would be even more effective due to the higher temps produced by compressing air into the intake (as you said). However, with my particular car, for whatever reason the thermostat wasn't opening properly, sometimes not at all. This caused obvious problems, and I even replaced the thermostat but still had the same problem. So I finally just took it out, and the car has been 100% ever since.
 
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