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Discussion Starter #1
I know that this company is not around anymore. But did anyone here ever get this set up and use it? Or know of anyone who did?
It was an idea I have had in my head, then I found this in an old Fox Body suspension post somewhere. I just wonder how it worked out. I have worked on other types of race cars that had something like this and it worked well. So I had this idea in my head for my GT along with a Watts Link. I am not looking to buy, I am looking to build. So i am not looking for anyone who makes it.
 

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Evolution Motorsports (EvM) made that 3 link for a few years but for one reason or another, went out of business. I know of one guy (terryr) who occasionally posts here and on c-c.com who built his own 3 link for his Fox mustang. I don't know any more about it than that.

This link looks like his work:

3 Link Rear Axle, Disc Brakes, and stuff

I've never heard of anyone attempting to copy the EvM design but I'm kind of a shut-in.
 

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The link to the home-made 3rd link was cool.
I've considered doing something like what is shown in the OP's picture. Getting all the math correct wouldn't be as critical with Heim joints. Hmmmm...
 

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Well, Ford switched to a 3 link, so there's that.

I made my own, as stated above. First I looked around the internet and saw many others did it. The one thing in common with all of them is that they have nothing in common. Each guy thought up his own design and made it his way.

The only thing that matters is the geometry. I was somewhat screwed by the published reference material I used was wrong. But it turned out okay.

I have had it several years and it works better than the old factory 4 link. In snow especially it was deadly and unpredictable before. Cops with pursuit Mustangs parked them in the winter.

If you are going to go racing, some classes don't allow you to alter the floorpan. So my idea wouldn't be allowed. The kit you show was one way around that. Apparently not enough saw the advantage to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So you say it works well for you? Is that your work in that link above,Terry? Looks well engineered. I am not worried about any racing classes. I just want to do some open track events, local autocrossing and canyon carving. Not interested in competing in any form of racing. Did that before. I want to be free to play with the ideas I have and not be restricted to a rule book on what I can and cannot do to my car. With that said. I would like to NOT cut and modify my floor. But I will if I have too.
Like I said, I had this idea in my head for a wile because I just do not like the torque arm. And then I found that pic above, and it was just what i was thinking about.
Another idea I had was kind of a little bit of a step up from a PM3L. Making one upper arm that comes from the stock pass mount on the pan but go straight back and connect to the right side axle tube so that the arm will not be at an angle. maybe even do both side and then eliminating the bind.You could use Spherical Bearings at the chassis end to work with the angle of the mount. Then I found that set up on the Net somewhere.
The fox has been around for a wile. I'm sure every idea has been done. LOL
 

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There's also the poor mans 3 link (PM3L). I used one for three seasons. Mine used spherical bushings at both ends and the factory chassis/axle mounts. This requires a PHB or Watts for lateral control. Also need to add more rear spring rate because the bind inherent in the stock upper arms is removed. The system works very well and is generally considered a "traction device" in some classes. Might want to try the PM3L before getting into a true three-link build.
 

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Another idea I had was kind of a little bit of a step up from a PM3L. Making one upper arm that comes from the stock pass mount on the pan but go straight back and connect to the right side axle tube so that the arm will not be at an angle. maybe even do both side and then eliminating the bind.You could use Spherical Bearings at the chassis end to work with the angle of the mount. Then I found that set up on the Net somewhere.
You just described Steeda's erroneously-named 5-link system. I asked about acquiring one of their axle mounts and UCAs, to do a 3-link like you describe above, and they said, "Nope!" Apparently, you have to have purchased the kit from them in order to purchase replacement parts. Last thing they want is some schmuck using half of their setup and someone else's PHB to spank their customer's asses.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There's also the poor mans 3 link (PM3L). I used one for three seasons. Mine used spherical bushings at both ends and the factory chassis/axle mounts. This requires a PHB or Watts for lateral control. Also need to add more rear spring rate because the bind inherent in the stock upper arms is removed. The system works very well and is generally considered a "traction device" in some classes. Might want to try the PM3L before getting into a true three-link build.
Thank you. I am going to do that because I am going to make my Watts link first.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You just described Steeda's erroneously-named 5-link system. I asked about acquiring one of their axle mounts and UCAs, to do a 3-link like you describe above, and they said, "Nope!" Apparently, you have to have purchased the kit from them in order to purchase replacement parts. Last thing they want is some schmuck using half of their setup and someone else's PHB to spank their customer's asses.
LOL Yeah I know. I've asked a few companies that. I'm just going to make everything myself then. I found where I can get the spherical bearings. I can do the rest.
 

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I raced my AI foxbody with one for a few years. Then I lengthened the upper link by cutting the floor our and running the upper link to my cage. I modified the lower arms too, but cutting out the torque boxes and making the chassis mounts also tie into the cage. Look up world challenge lower control arm modification and you'll find pics. But the EVM stuff was really good for what it did...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I raced my AI foxbody with one for a few years. Then I lengthened the upper link by cutting the floor our and running the upper link to my cage. I modified the lower arms too, but cutting out the torque boxes and making the chassis mounts also tie into the cage. Look up world challenge lower control arm modification and you'll find pics. But the EVM stuff was really good for what it did...
I've seen that before on a couple of vintage Trans Am race cars I worked on. One happened to be a Bud Moore build 68 Cougar. Very cool design.
Did you notice an advantage to the change to longer control arms?
 

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too bad they went out of business. i run their watts link with mm's ta. pk
 

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There's also the poor mans 3 link (PM3L). I used one for three seasons. Mine used spherical bushings at both ends and the factory chassis/axle mounts. This requires a PHB or Watts for lateral control. Also need to add more rear spring rate because the bind inherent in the stock upper arms is removed. The system works very well and is generally considered a "traction device" in some classes. Might want to try the PM3L before getting into a true three-link build.
If I was considering that route, I'd want to add some reinforcing for the remaining upper control arm mount area.
Something like the Wild Rides battle boxes solution for inspiration...
I guess it depends on grip, power level and stuff.

I'm thinking of reducing the possibility of tearing a torque box. It may, however, put some strict rule abiding folks noses out of joint. C'est la vie
 

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I'm thinking of reducing the possibility of tearing a torque box. It may, however, put some strict rule abiding folks noses out of joint. C'est la vie
The SCCA rule set says the stock mounts must be in stock position; nothing about reinforcements. With that said I ran my PM3L for three seasons without issues. However, I was also running stock Hp/Tq figures. I know that at least one racer experienced some floor tearing at the mounts with the PM3L but with lots more power. Point is if you don't reinforce, inspect that mount on a regular basis.
 

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I had one on my '92 LX. My car was making around 480rwtq and 460rwhp. I dropped .2 in my 60' times running on 17" Nitto drag radials.
 
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