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yupyup....
same thing happened to me last week

i couldn't find any aftermarket motor mounts for the 4.6 (energy suspension) so i just got stock replacement ones...I looked at the old motor mounts when they came out and they were crushed to peices...it crumbled apart right in front of me. This in turn made my tranny tilt to the passengers side and it lowered the motor alot
 

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It's pretty straightforward... don't jack up your engine on the oil pan, it may bend. Instead, put a piece of 2x4 on it's side under the front of the pan where it bolts to the engine and jack there. Or something else, just don't stick the jack under the pan and start lifting!

Note any wire routings before you remove things and as you install the new mounts, make sure you have the wires routed correctly at each step of the way. I sometimes forget and then have to go back a remove things and run the wires agains. This may not apply to what you're doing, but it's good advice. (When I installed my engine I forgot one wiring harness and instead of pulling the engine, I cut the harness, installed it, and then resoldered it together. Not fun!)
 

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I just replaced mine last week. Theres really not much to it. I removed my starter, and X-pipe, and unhooked my steering shaft. I also had to remove the strut tower brace for clearance. Then lifted my motor with a floorjack and a peice of wood after removing the bolt on each side that connects the mount to the chasis. Then with the motor lifted there are 4 bolts that hold the mount to the motor. Then work the mounts out. You may have to lift the motor a little more to get the new ones in. Both of mine were shot, Drivers side split in half with the bottom half completely missing and the passenger side was just split. The new ones don't have any give when you install them so thats why you may need to lift the motor a little higher to get them installed. Remember on the drivers side to put the ground back when installing the mount. Then do the reverse and you are done.
 

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Seems like quite a few folks with the older SN's are having this problem. Are there any clues that you have a problem, other than that cited above, that the engine was sitting wrong in the compartment? Drivability issues?
 

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I had to replace mine too because of the driveshaft rubbing the parking brake bracket. The rub was unbearable and hard to find since it was difficult to see the condition of the mounts while they were in the car. Because of the limited range of my engine hoist and ground clearance, I had to drop the K member do to the job.

Now I have a vibration in the drivetrain that was really bad but has settled down the last few days. I have recently loosened the k-member bolts and retightened them while the car was on it's own weight and this helped but I couldn't get a socket on the motor mount bolts to loosen them and retorque. HOW did you guys get a socket on them without removing anything?
 

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I had vibration issues due to mine being shot. Around 2800 to 3200 rpms. Also when I cranked it I could hear something clanking under the car. I figured it was my x-pipe and the vibes were due to the gears so I overlooked it for a while. Which is why drivers side mount was so bad. Another problem I had was when I installed my headers, the steering shaft touched my headers until I got new ones installed approx a week later due to no dealers having them in stock when I installed my headers.
 

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96-Snake
I'm guessing your talking the bolt that connects the mount to the chassis right? If so I used a big wrench to tighten mine, I didn't even attempt using a socket. For the ones that connected the mounts to the motor I used a socket, but did them while the motor was lifted.
 

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Yes Mystic, that's the bolt. I have a wrench that will fit but how did you get it in there enough to find leverage to move it?
 

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I'm not sure, I don't remember having a problem with either one of those bolts, so nothing special sticks in my head about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
bad vibes!!

you i get a bad vib at 3,000 grand but i thought that it was my d/s, My mount on the pasenger side is metal to metal:D:evil:
 

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Mystic1221 said:
I just replaced mine last week. Theres really not much to it. I removed my starter, and X-pipe, and unhooked my steering shaft. I also had to remove the strut tower brace for clearance. Then lifted my motor with a floorjack and a peice of wood after removing the bolt on each side that connects the mount to the chasis. Then with the motor lifted there are 4 bolts that hold the mount to the motor. Then work the mounts out.
That's how I do them but you can leave the steering and exhaust bolted up with no problem.
 

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Ok, I got a wrench on and retightened them both. Not the big deal I made it out to be at all. For some reason, I thought I wouldn't be able to budge them without a socket.. The Vibrations seem to be a little better but there are still some coming through the shifter that weren't there before I dropped the K-member. I wonder if it's just the new mounts that are letting them through??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had to pull the starter

The only problem, the bolts on the motor are tight, the last bolt is behind the starter and I could not get to it with it on.
 

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bierbelly said:
Seems like quite a few folks with the older SN's are having this problem. Are there any clues that you have a problem, other than that cited above, that the engine was sitting wrong in the compartment? Drivability issues?
Haven't seen one on a Mustang yet, but on other cars it's easy. If it's an auto, with the hood up and a helper standing to the side, hold the brakes and put it in gear. As you apply a little bit of gas, you helper will see the engine lift up. In one case I helped on, the engine would bang against the hood (when it was down of course).

With a 5 speed, same procedure, just begin to release the clutch.

A small amout of engine movement is normal, but a broken motor mout is like the definition of pornography, you'll know it when you see it.:lol:
 
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