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Mine are on. Before and after
This is the S&S Engineering kit. I dislike the pad overhang but it’s not a deal killer.
They do clear 17” Saleen rep wheels!!!
 

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Just went for a drive. Pedal goes down quite a bit further as I expected. I rigorously bled all 4 brakes. A full liter of fluid used. I’ll drive for a little but then re bleed in a week. The 93 Cobra master cylinder in there now might need to be swapped for a 94-95 GT. Hopefully it’s an easy swap. Do I adjust my prop valve to have less to the rear now?
 

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Just went for a drive. Pedal goes down quite a bit further as I expected. I rigorously bled all 4 brakes. A full liter of fluid used. I’ll drive for a little but then re bleed in a week. The 93 Cobra master cylinder in there now might need to be swapped for a 94-95 GT. Hopefully it’s an easy swap. Do I adjust my prop valve to have less to the rear now?
Hows the pedal effort?
If you need more volume and can stand the extra force required, you can use a SVO/MarkVii master. Its got a monster 1.125 bore.
 

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Hopefully it’s an easy swap. Do I adjust my prop valve to have less to the rear now?
93 Cobra to 94/95GT MC is a very easy swap. Quick bench bleed of the MC, all the line fitting sizes are the same, hardest part is pulling the wheels off to bleed the calipers again.

IIRC back about 4-5 pages I believe the 94/95 GT MC is the one to use with the ATS fronts. EDIT: Post #95, although I've learned some things since so I need to go back and recheck things. I still question my brake bias calc with the the ATS/43mm rear setup. I got 75/25 but would really like someone to do their own calc and confirm/conflict.
 

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93 Cobra to 94/95GT MC is a very easy swap. Quick bench bleed of the MC, all the line fitting sizes are the same, hardest part is pulling the wheels off to bleed the calipers again.

IIRC back about 4-5 pages I believe the 94/95 GT MC is the one to use with the ATS fronts. EDIT: Post #95, although I've learned some things since so I need to go back and recheck things. I still question my brake bias calc with the the ATS/43mm rear setup. I got 75/25 but would really like someone to do their own calc and confirm/conflict.
Hmm, maybe before going through the effort of rebleeding I should just swap that MC. It's been 12 years since I've done anything brake stuff, I couldn't tell you half of what I did installing this M-2300-K kit. :ROFLMAO: My dad helped me pump the pedal and he was going too damn fast. I'm really not surprised if I got air somewhere. I talked to a local friend of mine that just did these ATS calipers on his 2003 Cobra and said the pedal change was minimal and my result was very different. My pedal going down damn near 1-2" further before any meaningful stopping is achieved, like slowing down nicely when your kid has a drink in their hand. It's gotta be air. Car off it's hard as a rock. Thank you for the information that the 94-95 is a direct swap. I hate anything to do with fricken fittings.

Any special technique with the dual bleeders? I started with the outside and then inside, but still went back and forth to double check everything. And No, I didn't put them upside down, bleeders are up. :)
 

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Hows the pedal effort?
If you need more volume and can stand the extra force required, you can use a SVO/MarkVii master. Its got a monster 1.125 bore.
Effort is fine. It's just there is a **** ton of take up and pedal feels a little soft.

Edit: took the car out and did some 60-5 firm stops on a level road. Car pulls left a little bit. Must have air somewhere in the right side. I’ll post back up after I rebleed.
 

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Any special technique with the dual bleeders? I started with the outside and then inside, but still went back and forth to double check everything. And No, I didn't put them upside down, bleeders are up.
Effort is fine. It's just there is a **** ton of take up and pedal feels a little soft.

I've read that you bleed these from the inside out. Not sure that matters since you said you went back and forth. What pads are you using? I have notice big differences with "standard" pads versus higher quality pads. Did you get your pads with the calipers? Ebay? These may not be real factory pads and some cheapo knockoff?

Are you using speed bleeders? If so, what brand and part number did you go with?
 

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I've read that you bleed these from the inside out. Not sure that matters since you said you went back and forth. What pads are you using? I have notice big differences with "standard" pads versus higher quality pads. Did you get your pads with the calipers? Ebay? These may not be real factory pads and some cheapo knockoff?

Are you using speed bleeders? If so, what brand and part number did you go with?
For the very first bleed from dry I went inside of the front calipers first. Closest to the line. Then outside. Then went back again for a few more pumps. I am using the Brembo Ceramic pads that came with them. I checked the PN. They’re legit. But I’m sure they aren’t the HPS I’m used to.

Good news I re-bled the brakes after a little city driving with someone more experienced on the pedal and was able to suck a fat 1/2” single bubble from 3 of the 4. Pedal now grabs higher. It’s still lower than where it was but it’s minor now. When I switch to HPS pads it’ll likely be nice and touchy again. I didn’t want to use them to start and end up with parts I couldn’t use if this caliper swap ended up not fitting my wheels. I might even keep these and just do track day specific pads and rotors.

No speed bleeders.
 

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I've never had luck with the power bleeder and empty calipers. I could never get enough flow to get all the air out. Always had to switch over to the pedal pump method to get enough flow. I use the power bleeder for regular fluid replacement when there is no suspected air in the lines. On some calipers, like my C6 calipers, I had to actually tilt the caliper vertical to get all the air out during the initial bleed. Got a fat air bubble on each side out like this.

Nitrous SSC, make sure the brake booster pedal rod is adjusted properly. Sometimes, dead travel is due to the rod not contacting the piston in the MC. The dead zone is the distance it takes for the rod to touch the piston.

Also, it's tough to compare the feel of vacuum brakes to hydroboost brakes. The 2003 uses a 1 1/8" bore MC, but the pedal ratio is different. I don't know the actual ratios to quantify it though.
 

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I've never had luck with the power bleeder and empty calipers. I could never get enough flow to get all the air out. Always had to switch over to the pedal pump method to get enough flow. I use the power bleeder for regular fluid replacement when there is no suspected air in the lines. On some calipers, like my C6 calipers, I had to actually tilt the caliper vertical to get all the air out during the initial bleed. Got a fat air bubble on each side out like this.

Nitrous SSC, make sure the brake booster pedal rod is adjusted properly. Sometimes, dead travel is due to the rod not contacting the piston in the MC. The dead zone is the distance it takes for the rod to touch the piston.

Also, it's tough to compare the feel of vacuum brakes to hydroboost brakes. The 2003 uses a 1 1/8" bore MC, but the pedal ratio is different. I don't know the actual ratios to quantify it though.
Great info. Thank you. The way to adjust that rod it’s to remove the master from the booster then adjust correct?
 

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Yes,

Max motorsports has the procedure in one of their kits. I forget which one exactly.

But pretty much you separate the MC and booster (you can just bend it forward slightly) and measure the depth into the MC and the protrusion out of the booster and adjust.
 

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A big Thanks to all of the folks that figured out this tech!! I am ordering the 43mm rears to go with the GT500 brembo's now. Was concerned that too much front was going to throw things off.
 

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Is the banjo bolt on the new edge GT the same as the one needed for the ATS?

I’m going to install today but just realized I don’t know for sure and don’t want to be stuck in the middle of the install.

Searched the thread but didn’t find an answer. (Tried anyway. The search function on Corral now is not great)
 

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No, Dorman Part number 14100
 
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