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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for your thoughts on the best alignment settings for my '95. I have it set to the factory alignment specs w/the hunter machine we have at work.

I'm putting a set of 275/40-17 Nitto NT-555s on my car and would like to know what the best settings would be for my street car that sees the road course 2-3times/year. I will be rotating these tires front to back regularly.

Thanks!
 

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jaysch302 said:
this is what i run
+6.0 caster
-1.5 camber
+1/16 total toe out
That is pretty much what I run on the street, except it would be 1/16 toe in. At autocross it will get more camber and some toe out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
wow, I have no idea how im gonna get that much caster. You are supposed to have 1 degree cross car difference to compensate for road crown, I'm somewhere around 3.5 degrees now and my MAC c/c plates wont go any farther because they hit the stock strut tower brace.

Anybody have this problem before? Do i mod the strut tower brace or ditch the MAC plates and get some nicer ones like the M/M ones?

I know my camber is about -0.8 right now.

Thanks.
 

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Road crown only matters if you only drive on smaller roads. Most highways will be crowned in the center, and so unless you drive only on one side of the road you can be driving on crown to right or crown to left.
 

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My experience seems to differ with a lot of folks on here. Any comprimise setting I've tried resulted in uneven tire wear. this is probably due to me driving 30 to 40 miles of highway every day. If you drive in town with a lot of 90 degree turns you may get by with -1.5 camber and +6 degrees caster.

I'm running -.3 degrees camber and +4 caster with 1/32" toe in on the street now. I change it to -3 degrees camber and move caster back some for auto-x but I haven't measured the auto-x caster setting since I put the CC plates back on. I made my own CC plates so I don't know what the limits are on other brands.

One way to get more caster is with offset lower control arm bushings that move the control arm forward. I made my own control arm bushings out of teflon and they move the control arm about 5/16" forward.
 

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The alignment settings are the same as run on the open track as i do on the street. There is a lot of corners on my 30 mile to work and back. If you don't drive on corners on the street this setup is not for you.

Here are some things you can go by to decide how you want your car to handle

more - camber
Pro: more road holding power in the curve
Con: more chance of uneven tire wear if not driving on curvy roads, less braking power will lock up wheel earlier

more + caster
Pro: more - camber gain in corner and rolls straighter
Con: really are none except on high caster numbers can be harder on steering components

+Toe out
Pro: Car turns in faster into corner
Con: car can spin out if you turn wheel to fast on entrance also twitchy at high speed like +100mph

Toe in
Pro: More stable, better for novice driver
Con: car will understeer in entrance

The toe is biggest thing you have to decide on, i ran my car with toe in for years thinking that it would be better due to mustangs throttle oversteer.
Then i talked with one of the guys who was winning in AIX season and he told me he ran with toe out. I was confused thinking wow must be a ton of oversteer. He told me said the faster you can get the car pointed where you want it the sooner you can roll on to the gas.

Then i tried it.
it works, you just need to have good throttle control or you will spin out :)

anyways here is some info to think about
good luck,
Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i drive a lot of highway with my car when commuting, so i guess i will leave my camber alone. caster is already as far + as i can get it with my MAC plates. i did have the k-member down twice already, so i wonder if maybe its shifter too far back some how.
 

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If your car is now at a lower than stock ride height you can generally get away with setting slightly more static negative camber with strut suspensions (the rate of camber change in bump gets slower). Same goes for stiffer than OE springs, as a stiffer suspension won't travel as far (and bring with it the camber change). So you ought to be safe setting at least to the negative end of the factory recommended range as opposed to blindly setting it at the median/preferred spec that you'd do for Joe Customer.

I'm also not a fan of running any more cross anything than necessary. There's no point in setting it up to drive straight on narrow high-crown northern New England back roads if your roads are nearly flat (you might then actually have a slight tendency to drift to the left). Start with either zero or a minimal amount of cross and increase it only if you need to.

Norm
 
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