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Discussion Starter #1
1995 GT w/ABS, new stock replacement cobra lines up front with slotted 13" rotors with cobra brake kit (store bought semi-metallic pads). Stock rear.

My complaints are this, feels like it takes a while to stop, can feel some fade, she does dive somewhat hard.

The handbrake doesn't work all that well, however my rotors look alright, and there is plenty of pad. I've planned on changing them out anyways, but it just doesn't feel like they're working as they should. :blam:

The pedal is spongy, yet somewhat linear. No ABS warnings

If you didn't want to spend a fortune, what would you look into? My thoughts are:

*Bleed system completely (anything special for ABS cars?)
*Replace notorious offbrand cobra lines with stainless (what's a decent brand that doesn't kill the pocketbook, and installs out of the box?)
*Replace rear brakes (either pads and rotors, or is there an inexpensive better option to match the front brakes to bring the car back into balance)?
*replace fluid with good high temp DOT4

Are there any adjustments that can be made on the rear brakes? Also, I can't remember if its this car or my last, but the slider bracket on one of the rear brakes sticks. How the hell do you replace that?

Am I on the right track?
 

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I would first replace the "store bought semi-metallic pads" with something more aggressive - Hawk HPS, Porterfield R4S, Carbotech Bobcat. That alone should make a substantial difference.

Bleeding the brakes with good fluid can't hurt, but I'm assuming you did that when you installed the Cobra brakes up front.

I think there is a way to adjust the parking brake, but I've never had to fiddle with mine, and my Baers are different anyway, so I wouldn't be much help. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did bleed them. Just feels like the pedal felt much nicer on my V6 car, and t felt like it could stop much faster. These brakes were transferred as is to the GT when I wrecked the V6 in Nov 2003.

Being slotted rotors, what pad would be friendly to them before requiring me to buy a new set? I'll buy blank ones next time, and just throw on the slotted ones if I have to show off.
 

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Don't worry about the rears or the handbrake.

Make damn sure your system is bled properly. As far as ABS, make sure you don't let the MC run dry when you bleed. Unless someone previously bled the thing and let air into the system...

Is the Cobra stuff new or has it been on the car for a while?
 

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I second the recommendation on more aggressive pads. You'll just have to learn to deal with more dust and noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the cobra stuff was installed Nov 2003, and it was purchased and installed on the V6 in Sept 2003.
 

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Brakes don't stop your car...the tires do.

You can invest thousands into your brakes, but if your tires are skinny petrified Pep Boys specials you are not going to stop very well. If you are one of those guys who runs skinnys up front on the street, you are never going to stop well.

If you determine that your tires don't suck, we can get somewhere. But first and foremost, cheap all-season tires are marginal when it comes to grip. When you get more brake than tire, you either lock the brakes up or give the ABS pumps a workout.

Make sure you have adequate tires inflated to proper pressures first!

As far as pads go, cheap crappy auto-store pads are exactly what they are: cheap crappy pads. Good pads are a bit more expensive and their are a few trade-offs. Good pads are noisey and coat your rims with a layer of dust that is a PITA to remove. Auto-parts store pads are quiet, dust very little, last along time but don't do the best job of stopping a 3600lb car. What's important to you? Do you want to keep your rims nice and shiney or do you want to keep your car from plwing into something?

I use Carbotech Pather+ on the street. They sound like pigs being slaughtered and dust flows out like a volcanic eruption...but they do what they are designed to do and do it very well - STOP THE CAR. From my experience, I'd put these pads a notch above Hawk HP+.

If you really want to stop, there's a compromise and a few requirements: good tires, properly bled brakes and performance minded brake pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm rollling on 265/285/35/18 Kumho rubber. Not the best, but not pepboys skinny. Pressure is correct, along with decent alignment settings.

The car doesn't get close to locking up, but the feel just sucks, you have to give it some pedal to get some strong braking. Its not bad, but the V6 configured with the same components and suspension minus ABS felt much better.

Could it be as simple as air in the lines?

I'll look into new pads, and see what I can learn about the crapomatic parking brake, perhaps mine never received the recall, however I think the recall was for complete release, not just poor grab.
 

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The problem my E-brake exhibits is poor grab, not poor release. I'm a lazy mofo, so I've never had the recall done, and because I know what the symptoms are I know how to deal with it.

If your complaint is about the pedal feel, Chris, then my vote is definitely a MC/booster issue. Maybe a MC with a bore slightly bigger than whatever you've got on there now would help?

When you say you need to "give it some pedal" are you talking about it requiring lots of pressure, or about it having a long stroke before the brakes really bite?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the latter. My lil bro complains that his civic brakes better, however you really have to stand on the pedal all the way to the floor to get a hard brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am using oem replacement rubber lines up front, would they have anything to do with it? I know one benefit of stainless is supposed to be the feel.
 

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You should notice a mushy pedal with rubber lines only when your brakes are super hot (basically the hose is hot enough to expand).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ah, so scratch that. I'll try bleeding them someitme this week.
 

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I just finished the Cobra Conversion on my street 97 GT. Used stanless steel braided lines. When I was done I had a spongy pedal. It ended up I also needed to bleed the Master Cylinder. After bleeding a nice firm hard pedal and great brakes. Also using drilled rotors and Factory Cobra Pads.
 

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Chris, one of the problems is that the GT has about 250-300 #s more weight on the nose of the car,which MIGHT account for how the brakes feel.

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've accounted for the weight, but its not that. There was only a marginal improvement in braking from the GT setup to the cobra when I pulled the stuff off my v6.
 
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