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Discussion Starter #1
This thread is going to describe in detail exactly how I put the LS2 drivetrain into my '91 mustang. I know there are several different ways to accomplish the same results and I'll try to touch on what I know, but I'm mainly going to stick to what I have personally done with my car in my garage. Save the drama for you moma and go talk about cleveland heads, building motors on your tailgate, and tuning with only a flathead screwdriver for another day. This is strictly for information about the LSx swap process and not if it's a good idea or not. Now that that's out of the way, onto the tech....


Once you have obtained your choice of LSx engine and fox car you probably want to know how to mount the GM engine into the Ford chassis. Surprisingly the LSx fits into the fox platform very well. It is an extremely compact engine and this is much less work than it seems. Regardless of the LSx engine you decide to use, you will more than likely want to get and F-body oil pan because it fits the best in the fox chassis IMO. Some guys have used the truck pans, but they do hang down lower and you really gain nothing in return unless it is free or you just have it lying around. I used the F-body pan. I also used my existing MM K-member and built my first set of engine mounts from used ford 4.6 mod motor mounts and some 67-72 Duster/Demon/Dart mounts. They worked fine, but I ended up building another set out of F-body poly "clamshell" poly mounts and making adapters that fit these mounts to the K-member.

AJE now makes a k-member for mustangs with LSx mounts already on it and it looks like a pretty decent piece. I would not use one on my car because I have larger brakes/front tires and drive it on the street a lot. I'm sure it would be fine for a drag/grudge car or a cruiser. Here is the first set of mounts I built. I might have a few pictures of the new set I built, but I'll have to dig them up later. I built my mounts to place the engine as low and far back in the engine bay as possible for obvious reasons.


4.6 driver side



in the car



passenger side in the car


Engine in the car. 6.0L of displacement and it sits lower than the stock 5.0 does......:drool:


Firewall area


Coil to brake booster clearance. I was worried about this one because I'm running a big SN95 booster for my brakes and thought it would be very close. I was right, but it fits...



I'll post up the next part with the transmission mount later.
 

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Nice! It'll be a little easier with a manual rack. At least it looks that way.
 

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more pics please
 

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Is there a way to use a front mount motor plate, probably custom made, while still retaining the factory mustang k member?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, on to the transmission. I used a T56 transmission from a '05 GTO. There are several different types of tranny's that can go behind an LSx, but they all go in about the same way. I used the factory mustang tranny cross member as my starting point. The GTO tranny mount actually lined up and fit almost perfect into the mount, but since the t56 is quite a bit longer than a T5 I had to change where it attaches to the car. I welded a few tabs onto the subframe connectors just behind the factory mounts that were on the body. I also modified the tranny cross member to clear my 3-inch exhaust while I was messing around with it.







Now since the T56 is longer than the T5 and since I stuffed the engine pretty far back into the engine bay, the shifter location sits very far back. I had to cut the stock hole back a few inches to fit. It is fine for driving and it is not noticeable to me, but don't be surprised if your results vary. I am running a console delete and will be using an 80-86 shifter bezel. The major modification with using the T56 is adapting the clutch linkage to a hydraulic setup. Some people #### all over the hydraulic linkage because they hear about how people have trouble with them, but if they are setup correctly the benefits far out weigh the cons in my opinion. I am using the LS7 clutch and it has a super light pedal feel to it. You could drive this thing all day in traffic and your leg wouldn't even get tired. The key to keeping the hyd. clutch working great is to use decent parts and keep the fluid clean/flushed. I used a Wilwood master cyl and and Earls -3 braided SS hose with AN connectors from Summit. Here are the p/n's along with the hose:

WIL-260-3374 (1.1 inch stroke/.75 bore)
EAR-63010128ERL (28 inches long)

You will also need this fitting to convert the slave over to -3.

RUS-640281

All of that is about $120 shipped. The master comes with all the fittings you need. I also have a remote bleeder setup so I can bleed the clutch fluid in about 2-3 minutes by myself. I need to get some better pictures of the finished product, but it is all kind of buried in the dash and really not much to look at. One thing I would recommend is to remove the dash and the steering column while fitting all these pieces together. The pedals go in and out much faster with the dash/column out of the way.



These pedals are from a '88 turbocoupe which used a hyd. clutch. It was the best part to start with vs. the stock mustang stuff and it bolts right into the car.







 

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You don't expect any longevity out of that nut welded to the heim joint on the clutch? Do you? :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I welded another nut really well and it's been fine for about 2500 miles, but I will probably take a look at it again and see if I can figure something else out.
 

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What mount is that in the first pic you have up? How hard was it to modify? I don't have a k member or mounts yet. I was thinking about buying the AJE because of cost and the LSX mounts available, but I haven't heard very many good things about AJE.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Headers and fuel supply....

I reused my MAC 351W headers with 1 3/4 tubes all I did to the passenger side is cut the ford flanges off and weld on the new lsx style flanges. On the drivers side I had to redo a few of the tubes to clear the steering shaft. Not too hard and while I was at it I took off the ball-socket joint and put a V-band style flange. I left them uncoated just in case I had to change them around once I got the car on the road. So far they've worked perfect. I wish I could find a set of 1 7/8 size headers, but these are fine for me. The flanges are about $40 a pair from any GM dealership (p/n: 12480130) parts department.

Here are some pics of the headers off the car.

Drivers side






Passenger side








For the fuel system I used a C5 corvette filter/regulator from Napa. The C5's fuel filter is also a pressure regulator that regulates the fuel pressure to just where you need it on a lsx engine. (60psi) The best part is they're $48 at any Napa store.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FIL&PartNumber=3737&Description=Fuel+Filter+(Gold)

I mounted the filter in the stock location and rerouted the return right back into the tank just like it was. I went ahead and converted all the fittings over to -6 AN. I brazed most of the fittings on (fuel pickup and fuel rail), but I used a compression/-6AN fitting on the filter. So far this setup has worked perfect with my existing Walbro 255lph pump.
 

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hey JW33 do you any pics of the rest of the car? the engine bay looks very good and extremely clean! very nicely done.....would love to do this swap in my car
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright on to the accesories. I used all the GTO brackets, a GTO crank pulley, GTO power steering pump, and an F-body alternator (way cheaper than the GTO alt). I used Maximum Motorsport rack to AN conversion fittings and had a pressure hose made at my local hydraulic place for about $35-40. I just used some left over -6 braided hose for the return.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_10&products_id=1001

I used a stock F-body radiator/fans and it fits perfect, even with the mustang brackets. I bent a coat hanger into the shape of the radiator hoses and went to the back of the local autoparts store and found what I needed. The air intake tube is a 4-inch 90 degree rubber elbow from the diesel truck place up the road and I had some 4-inch aluminum bends that I made the rest with.

For the electronics and wiring I had several choices, but since my motor in a GEN IV and has a 58x tooth reluctor wheel some of the options were kind of pricey. I used the GM standalone the kit for the LS2 p/n: 19166568. It comes with a harness that is completly labelled, an E67 ECM, DBW (drive by wire) throttle pedal, (2) O2 sensors with bungs for your headers, an LS7 MAF with the bracket to mount it into your intake tract, and a set of instructions. It also comes with a fuse block that has all the relays and fuses All you do is hook provide the wires for your fuel pump and cooling fans. There is also a MIL, VSS output, Tach output, and Oil pressure output among other things that are in the bulkhead connector that go inside the car along with the diagnostic port. I used all of these outputs for my speedometer, tach, water temp, and oil pressure gauges. I paid $815 shipped from Scoggins Dickey. Everything is labelled, you just plug it in and go.




That's pretty much it as far as I can remember. The car has been very reliable since the conversion and I've put about 2500 trouble free miles on it so far. The only thing I have left to do to the car is put the A/C back on it and redo the interior with sound deadening and a nice stereo. The car already has the MM Maximum Grip box suspension and Cobra spec brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiZ_GqlJHq4





 

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Discussion Starter #16
Called the "Streetsweeper HT" by FTI. About .60x lift 230-232 duration. Fairly mild for a 6.0 engine these days.
 

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I'll probaly get ripped for this but I'm just curious if you have a rough estimate on how much this project cost you?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2700 longblock
2200 tranny/accesories
825 harness
100 radiator/fans
700 fidanza flywheel/LS7 clutch
350 driveshaft/yoke
and a few hundred more in misc crap. I'm in it for about 1500-2K after I sold my old 351 junk.
 

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That car is goin to MOVEEEE post some vids, awsome car
 

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2700 longblock
2200 tranny/accesories
825 harness
100 radiator/fans
700 fidanza flywheel/LS7 clutch
350 driveshaft/yoke
and a few hundred more in misc crap. I'm in it for about 1500-2K after I sold my old 351 junk.
That's less then I would have thought. Look's like it's gonna go pretty damn good too.
 
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