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They have a base tune that can be downloaded from their website... But tune sharing can be counter-productive... No two motors are the same, yes... The factory mass produces cars with the same computer, remember, I said counter-productive, not impossible, the concept of a standalone EMS is to be able to tune for your motor specifically and maximize what you have, the OEM didn't really care about performance to this degree. What is your combination?
Thanks for the links! I know that I don't wanna use someone else's tune, I have been tuning OEM ECUs in various forms for about 5 years now, I just want some sort of base tune to get all the settings right. I will go through and redo all the ignition, fueling, etc maps when I get the MS3 and get it in the car. Right now I just want to feel out the features of Tuner Studio on a tune that would be similar to what I would be running in my car, if that makes sense?

As for my set up, it will be changing vastly in the next 3 years (part of why I am choosing an MS3). Right now it's an N/A 302 with eddie heads, TFS stage 2 cam, headers, exhaust and TFS intake mani in a Fox convertible. :joy:
 

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i understand completely... you should download the software and then start a project with the bas tune DIY has provided, and tinker around from there, i understand wanting to get a feel for it before the purchase, thats one thing that drew me to MS... try to get the software for BS3 or FAST for free so you can "try it on"... not gonna happen. enjoy! ;)
 

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Definitely. My latest ECU endeavor was developing programming for tuning the stock ECU on my gixxer. I defined a major portion of the tables in the ECU so they could be modified (thanks to alot of other hardworking gents too!), so I like that MS has some end user customization to it too.
 

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I am gonna build a twin kit with gt37 vnt turbos and im wondering what version of the squirt has an extra pulse width modulation table I can use to control the vnt solonoid?
 

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How much current does the solenoid need?

The MSPNP, MS3X, and MS3-Pro all have a PWM boost control output standard; others can be equipped with one. The main question is how much current it would need.
 

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I am not sure what the amperage requirements are for the solenoids, but I just saw a post on another board where a guy said he was controlling them by adjusting the amount of voltage he put into the solenoid. Said at 12+ volts they are full open and he said 8-9 volts was about half way. So I might just use a few throttle switch's with resistors so I can use a cheaper MSI or MSII. I am thinking these VNT turbo's will act like a high dollar boost controller and smooth out the ramp up of pressure and keep the tires from spinning and at the same time build boost without loading. They are perfect for use as twins and are really cheap for a ball bearing turbo. Can be found on Powerstrokes and Duramax's.

Garrett GT3782 on Powerstrokes
GT37 Compressor 58mm
Ball Bearing Cartride
.4-.9AR exaust housing
66mm wheel
 

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Guess I'd better finish building my MS230-K so I can put MS on my 85GT. It'll be stock for awhile but improvements are in its future. Wanna just learn how to use MS on my car while it's stock.
 

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Sense this is the how to megasquirt your mustang thread I thought I'd share some of my experiences. I installed a solder it yourself MS3X and running full sequential fuel and spark. Works fantastic by the way.

One of the most difficult items was the 36-1 wheel and sensor install. I wasted some money buying the fast trigger wheel kit thinking it might be an easy solution. Well not so easy. So i designed my own sensor bracket and modified the 6.750" DIY autotune trigger wheel. I really do not have any brackets for sale. But wouldn't be hard for me to make one every now and then. At the time of my install I would have just bought a bracket if I could find one.

One other item was the relays for everything. I came up with a nice solution for that also.

I don't want to step on anyone's toes or be viewed as a "vender". Just want to help the megasquirt/ford community. So if anyone is interested or has questions on a MS3X install shoot me a PM.

:salute:
 

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I'm running MS3X 3.57 on my 351W Fox Mustang, with the DYIAutoTune pre-made harnesses which are GREAT!

Goal: Sort out the ignition timing first, before converting from carb to EFI.

MSD 6AL
TFI distributor (Grey module on distributor)

Wiring:
MSD White wire to MS - 26 Tacho
TFI PIP to MS - Trigger (Shielded white wire)
Spout to MS - 36 Ignition
Results - Runs well, but changing Ignition Set-up to tables (instead of fixed) has no impact on the engine timing. Tuner Studios does show the timing change on the Ignition Advance guage.

Tuner Studio Ignition settings
Basic Trigger
Trigger Angle/Offset 10.0
TFI PIP
Falling Edge
Going High
Single Coil
JS10 Spark
MS3X Cam in
Flip Polarity - Normal
Advance - Use tables
Use Prediction - 1st Deriv Pred
Cranking - 6.0
Cranking Advance - 10.0
Standard Dwell
Use Dwell table - off
Normal Dwell - 4.0
Spark Duration - 1.0

Suggestions?
 

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Blue Coupe, change the spark out from JS10 to Tacho; that should fix it.
Thanks Matt!
The change was fine until I updated the MS3 box and re-powered.
An error came up "Conflict with Tacho Output -pin already in use by - spark outputs"

I found the Tacho Output under Basic Settings and changed the output from Tacho to Nitrous 2(something not used). It wasn't clear if this would is disable the Tacho output to the MSD box.

In the end the error is gone and now MS controls the timing! :)
 

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I'm about to get started on a winter conversion to MS3 pro with MS3 supplied harness on my 93 mustang and could use some help with wiring.

Its a Dart motor with small supercharger and I'll be running injection and ignition from the MS3. I have yet to figure out where I'll mount the controller but it will likely be in the cabin where the factory ECM currently is.

The engine is out and I'm starting with an engine bay wiring clean-up. My underhood temps prior to pulling the motor where pretty high and I was concerned about wiring breakdown, as well as the factory setup looks like crap. I'll probably pull the dash to get at both sides of the firewall.

I'll be keeping air conditioning and cruise control which may complicate things for me.

I'll have to keep wires for;
windshield washer
wiper motor
headlights
horn
airbag sensors
wires to air conditioning accumulator & compressor
wires to starter solenoid.

I'm guessing I can pull the following from the harness

BAP sensor?
wires to coil?
injector wires? (that pass through 10 pin connectors)
wires to dizzy/TFI?
mass air sensor wires?

I'm wondering how to get around using the ECM for cruise control. Currently the there is VSS input into the ECM which I think is also used by the cruise.

How did pre EFI cars run cruise control?

I'm also uncertain about the air conditioning and don't know if there is any ECM interaction for that.
 

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I

I'm guessing I can pull the following from the harness

BAP sensor?
wires to coil?
injector wires? (that pass through 10 pin connectors)
wires to dizzy/TFI?
mass air sensor wires?
The MS3-Pro would take over all these functions. BAP and MAF are optional but supported.

I'm wondering how to get around using the ECM for cruise control. Currently the there is VSS input into the ECM which I think is also used by the cruise.

How did pre EFI cars run cruise control?
Fox body cruise control is just like pre EFI cars - there's an autonomous control unit with its own throttle cable that doesn't talk to the ECU. It won't be a problem.

I'm also uncertain about the air conditioning and don't know if there is any ECM interaction for that.
The factory ECU sends a WOT cutoff signal to turn the A/C off, but the factory A/C otherwise operates on its own. You can use a PWM or high current output to run this relay yourself.
 

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The MS3-Pro would take over all these functions. BAP and MAF are optional but supported.



Fox body cruise control is just like pre EFI cars - there's an autonomous control unit with its own throttle cable that doesn't talk to the ECU. It won't be a problem.



The factory ECU sends a WOT cutoff signal to turn the A/C off, but the factory A/C otherwise operates on its own. You can use a PWM or high current output to run this relay yourself.

silly q, what's a PWM?
 

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PWM=pulse width modulation

it's a pulse of voltage for a period of time that repeats, or a square wave output...at least that has been my understanding in the electronics world....may mean something different in this auto ECU/tuning world.
 

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The MS3-Pro extra outputs are classified as high current or PWM depending on what sort of device they are intended to drive. Both are capable of switching relays or delivering a pulse width modulated signal. However, the high current outputs have more current capacity (high current outputs are officially rated for 5 amps... unofficially, they can go higher) and the PWM outputs are optimized for parking a valve like a Ford IAC or the oil control valves on a Coyote motor partway through their travel.
 

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Sorry my english I'm finnish.

I have 91 gt with trick flow hci and low boost vortech with front mounted air/air ic. It has plug n play ms and I would like to use my msd box too. Tuning of the engine is still in progres and I would like to have msd in the tune.

Does the ms box need some modefications to have msd in use? So we don't burn any components. And if so what has to be made?

This is the box I have: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirtpnp-g2-eec4a8-for-86-93-ford-mustang-5-0/#ywtm_78211
 

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Sorry my english I'm finnish.

I have 91 gt with trick flow hci and low boost vortech with front mounted air/air ic. It has plug n play ms and I would like to use my msd box too. Tuning of the engine is still in progres and I would like to have msd in the tune.

Does the ms box need some modefications to have msd in use? So we don't burn any components. And if so what has to be made?

This is the box I have: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirtpnp-g2-eec4a8-for-86-93-ford-mustang-5-0/#ywtm_78211
Nope, just wire up your MSD box like you would on a stock 5.0, check your timing (you may need to increase your spark latency if the timing retards as RPM goes up), and you're good to go.

Optionally, you can wire the SPOUT wire to the white wire instead of the factory coil negative. This will let the MSPNP do a spark cut. It doesn't require any settings changes other than the timing.
 
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