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On a NA app anything below 4000 is a waist of time.
I have been driving my 5800 on the street for 5 years with never any issues.

Tim
 

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general rule of thumb is to have the stall 500-700 rpm lower than your peak torque
 

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Well the best way is to start with a some what tight converter for a baseline the keep raising the stall speed until car slows down or 60' suffers. But if you cant do that type of testing then get one from a good company that can build one that should be close for your combo and at least one reflash for free.
 

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#4 is a good basic setup..

FOR A TRACK CAR..


but oftentimes that will make the lockup a little high rpm for most true street cars..

the stall / lockup all depends on what you want it to do!!!!

you have to TRY a few to really get the feel of what each different stalls can do for your car... there are way too many setups that can be had to determine an exact stall rpm...

obviously a true 5000 stall is not going to work with a hydraulic roller that is allready limited to a 6800 rpm range....
 

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"obviously a true 5000 stall is not going to work with a hydraulic roller that is allready limited to a 6800 rpm range..."

How is that???? Tim's car will flash to 56-5800 on the launch and pull back to 5800 on the gear changes. Yet on the street drives just fine. On another note, before the rear disc brakes went on, the drums would not hold it at 1800 rpm on the foot brake.
 

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Mine goes 5800 on the brake. Shift at 6500. I have loosened the converter to get it there. The looser the converter is the faster it goes.

I have 4-5000 miles on this set up with no problems.
Tim
 

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Mine stalls at 5500 with a 6800 shift point on a hydraulic roller. Launch it at 4800. Work with your converter manufacturer to come up with the correct stall for your setup.
 

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hmmm.........4800 peak torque here.......stall is at 5100......shift at 6000........could easily be street driven........:snore:
 

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general rule of thumb is to have the stall 500-700 rpm lower than your peak torque
+1 on the above statement. You should select your converter based on your camshaft's peak TORQUE numbers, not horsepower. 500 - 700 rpm lower than peak torque is the general rule. This will allow you to launch at your engine's peak torque, which is where your car will pull the hardest off the line. My Jay Allen cam's peak torque is 4200rpm (302 with an AOD), and my converter is 3500rpm. I gain a little better streetability with my converter, but I'm sacrificing performance. I'm a couple of weeks away from a Redneck C4, with a 4000rpm converter, then I should see better numbers at the track.
 

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Then get a good 8" that goes 5000 and go real fast
Tim
+1 on the above statement. You should select your converter based on your camshaft's peak TORQUE numbers, not horsepower. 500 - 700 rpm lower than peak torque is the general rule. This will allow you to launch at your engine's peak torque, which is where your car will pull the hardest off the line. My Jay Allen cam's peak torque is 4200rpm (302 with an AOD), and my converter is 3500rpm. I gain a little better streetability with my converter, but I'm sacrificing performance. I'm a couple of weeks away from a Redneck C4, with a 4000rpm converter, then I should see better numbers at the track.
 
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