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Discussion Starter #1
...because, I set the cluster up with just a touch of preload. It still spun around by hand like a skateboard wheel. I was watching one of Paul Cangialosi's video's, and he does them quite a bit different. I ended up using another 8 thousands shim, and now when I spin it by hand, it goes about another half turn and then stop. As he shows in his video. Seems tight to me that way? (I know they will loosen up a bit, but no way to really know how much) this is with new bearings too, not the ones I removed.

Just wondering how other people have done theirs...


Paul recommends 4-6 inch lbs. of drag, for example.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have the .pdf printed out, yes.

Indy, also yes. Steel input retainer, Billet cluster support and 2.95 gear set with new bearings, is basically what I'm doing.

Waiting on Paul to get me a couple extra spiral locks now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mine is sitting right at 5 inch lbs. of drag right now. I'm just wondering if anyone else has tried this method. I'm most likely going to leave as is.
 

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That's about right. When the new stuff takes a seat, it will ease up, but you don't want any freeplay.
 

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Astro recommends .003" shim more than zero end play (or .003" preload) on both the cluster, and the input/main shaft for their A5 builds.

Jay
 

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There is going to be an axial load on the gear sets whether under acceleration or deceleration due to the helix cut of the gears. If there is any play at all, the unloaded end of the gear set will be able to move away from the corresponding driven and drive gears because the tapered bearings allow for that movement. Thus the reason for a slight preload on gear sets in performance builds. I don't think the laws of physics would care much if the bearings are brand new or good used sets.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I put new bearings in, which will seat with use, so a slight preload should put me right around that magical 0 endplay figure. If I reused the old bearings I would have aimed for 0 right from the start.

The idea behind his billet steel cluster support is that it will not stretch like the stock piece, so whatever you set it at will be locked in, so to speak. I did it once more time and got it a bit over 2" lbs. of drag. I think that will be good.
 

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I wouldn't worry about a bit of preload, that axial load that is imparted to the cluster, and main shaft under power will far exceed the small amount of preload. Think about how much force it would take to stretch that stock stamped steel cluster support. Tapered roller bearings can take a pretty serious load, an example would be front wheel bearings.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wouldn't worry about a bit of preload, that axial load that is imparted to the cluster, and main shaft under power will far exceed the small amount of preload. Think about how much force it would take to stretch that stock stamped steel cluster support. Tapered roller bearings can take a pretty serious load, an example would be front wheel bearings.

Jay
That makes perfect sense to me as well.
 
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