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Discussion Starter #1
How far can you push a 6AL? At what point do you need a 7 series box?

Funny story, I have had random ignition issues for years. All started when I was running a blower (just to justify posting here) lol…

Under heavy load it just shuts off, kind of like your shutting the key then back on all while being full throttle. Changed harnesses, checked grounds, did more then I’d even like to get into to try to find the issue.

Ready to swap to coils, as a last ditch resort while on the dyno, we swap in an old school MSD 6AL, and a factory ford coil, both have to be 15+ years old, not even sure where they came from. Figured at this point, if nothing else we’d see what the upper limit is for this stuff. So again I ask. At what point do you need to upgrade to something stronger?

Take some power out, Made one pull with my 7530T box, then the 6AL. only 3 hp difference. Laughing and joking we throw some power at it. Holy Crap my issues is gone! Definitely a noise problem, which the 6AL just doesn’t care about. Anyway, We throw more at it, suddenly we are not laughing anymore. We never were actually able to find out how much a 6AL and factory coil will support, because at 1283 RWHP and 8200 rpm It was still doing just fine….

 

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I bought my 6al used and have been plenty satisfied with the reliability for 8 years now. It is mounted upside down too. (In the fender)

I do have a random misfire sometimes when the car is cold that is related to spark. It is always so random, that I can't ever check it though. I want to pull the box apart and see if I can fix it but, I don't know what I am getting into.

Impressive numbers by the way. I am an analog 6al believer now.
 

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I have wondered why would you need a fancy msd 7 or power grid if you have a standalone computer that will do everything you need it to do. I run the Holley Hp and it does more than enough for me so why buy an expensive ignition box that does the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have wondered why would you need a fancy msd 7 or power grid if you have a standalone computer that will do everything you need it to do. I run the Holley Hp and it does more than enough for me so why buy an expensive ignition box that does the same?
I actually got that ignition box back fore the Holley. I used to run an old school EPEC system and it needed all the help it could get lol.
 

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I can understand that. I have also wondered what the limits are to a 6al box. Are you going to keep the 6al for more testing or switch to something else?
 

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I have wondered why would you need a fancy msd 7 or power grid if you have a standalone computer that will do everything you need it to do. I run the Holley Hp and it does more than enough for me so why buy an expensive ignition box that does the same?
unless it does coil on plug, then yes you "dont need an ignition box" more so a more powerfull coil that has higher discharge, the box helps with coil inductance

.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can understand that. I have also wondered what the limits are to a 6al box. Are you going to keep the 6al for more testing or switch to something else?
Sorry, missed that somehow.

I mounted the 6Al permanently, for now anyway. I also went and bought the cheapest MSD coil that does not use the factory mount. I'm thinking it made 1283 with a stock Ford coil, why go crazy.
 

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strong ignition box?

where are the comparable numbers?

what is strong?

so far, fancy, msd, holley, ford, are just brands.....

amps, henry, volts, watts.........that is where this thread might have some value.
 

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When I was trouble shooting the god awful megasquirt VR pickup issues, I was having a hell of a time; one of the things I tried was was putting in an accel 300 ignition box I had kicking around - one of the the crappiest ignition boxes I've ever run. It didn't fix the megasquirt's pickup issues (eventually gave up with the VR sensor and went to a hall effect sensor triggered off the balancer bolt bosses). But the accel's still there. Lights the charge just fine with a crane lx 92 coil and a .030 plug gap at 15 psi.
 

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strong ignition box?

where are the comparable numbers?

what is strong?

so far, fancy, msd, holley, ford, are just brands.....

amps, henry, volts, watts.........that is where this thread might have some value.

What value did you bring to this thread? Stop being such a miserable slit.
 

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I bring my dashing good looks and sense of humor.....>:)
 

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) Spark plug wires: Get a set of wires that have good noise suppression and insulation. This is very important when you have an EFI engine. Spark plug wires will breakdown from oil, heat and chemicals. Remember spark plug wires are a consumable item. It’s NOT ideal to have a set for 10+ years especially on a daily driver.

2) Distributors: Stock Ford distributors are excellent pieces of equipment. In most cases they will distribute a high voltage up to 6500rpms for a short duration. If you need to run at higher rpms then an aftermarket distributor will be needed. The stock distributor’s biggest downfall is they do not come with a roller bearing shaft. The stock bearing shaft has some play in it, and it may wobble and that’s not ideal if you’re looking for good rotation at higher rpms. Always use the stock shutter wheel with your distributor for better accuracy when it comes to firing off a spark.

3) Coils: Always remember this is probably the most important piece when it comes to your ignition system. I like coils that have a fast rise time and fast recharge time. This is very important when you are trying to turn higher rpms. It’s important to remember that coils do get weaker and in some cases can wear out from this rising and discharging/collapsing of its internal field. This is very important to remember, a coil is a consumable item.

4) Aftermarket Ignition boxes: I’ve seen cars that don’t need them and an aftermarket coil was the only thing needed. There are other cases where your vehicle will need an aftermarket ignition box, just make sure you have the correct one for your type of driving or use. Remember your vehicle will only use what is needed electrically.

5) Installation wiring: I like to use GM weather pack connections on ignition wiring. Install or protect wiring away from direct heat (engine and exhaust) and water, sounds easy enough but still many people get it this portion wrong.

My opinion
Michael Plummer
 

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5) Installation wiring: I like to use GM weather pack connections on ignition wiring. Install or protect wiring away from direct heat (engine and exhaust) and water, sounds easy enough but still many people get it this portion wrong.

My opinion
Michael Plummer
This is by far the cause of more drive-ability/performance concerns than anything, and the components always get blamed when in fact it is how it was all installed. Bad/improper grounds, wire routing, hack wire splices and connectors. The list goes on.
 

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This is by far the cause of more drive-ability/performance concerns than anything, and the components always get blamed when in fact it is how it was all installed. Bad/improper grounds, wire routing, hack wire splices and connectors. The list goes on.
exactly!

butt connectors are for butt heads.. learn how to solder
 
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