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Discussion Starter #1
the motor in my car is need of a rebuild after 208,xxx miles.
Im not sure if I want to go with carb or stay efi? I would never go back to efi on my truck, but thats a truck. everywhere Ive rad, people have talked about the need of custom chips burnt, and having their cars dynoed. Well in northern MN we dont have either, the nearest dyno is 250 miles away, so thats out of the question. I know it would requrire work to put in a windsor, and if I did i would have to be carb. for $$ reasons.
how much power can I get out of stock 302 for say $1000? My friends dad just picked up a dozen brand new long blocks for around $400 a piece(I cried too) rollar 302's and 460's. I could probably buy one from him for say $500. So what would be the best parts to wake it up? say cam heads etc? and which intakes for efi or carb?
My other option is to go witha 347, I see kits advertised alot for $1000-1500, but what other hidden costs are there? other than boreing? Ive heard they still need to be balanced? if so what does this cost? If I do a 347 will I need a custom chip burned?
When i look at all the hidden cost of efi (MAF, injectors, chip, etc)
It realy makes wan to go carb.
I run a 600cfm vbac sec, elec choke holley on my truck and love it, If I went carb on my car, this is what i would use, this or a 750.
what kind of milage can I expect? i get around 24 now.
what can kind of power can the stock heads make when ported out very well? The 351 in my uncles bronco is pushing close to 400fwhp with the stock heads and a 500 cfm carb. But the heads have 30 hours into them. what can i expect from stock 302 heads(ported)??
Im leaning towards a 302 or 347 with possibly heads, a weind stealth intake, 750 holley, and a cam, any sugestions on which cam and which heads? any idea what kind of power I can expect?
also I would love a lumpy idle, and dont care about emissions.
I know im asking alot, but someone has to know!
thanks,
Jared
 

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Well, if you only have $1000 to spend you better just go home now.

To do a 347 kit using quality forged parts will run over $500 in machine work and $1400+ in parts. Go with a cheap cast setup and you will save maybe $400. If you build a 347 you will have to invest in good heads. If you can't do that then you better stay with a 302 based engine. Spend $600 on a rebuilt and ported set of stock heads and your in the league of unported GT-40 heads. Not worth the time and trouble in my mind. You would be better off rounding up a good set of used aftermarket heads.

If you are on a tight budget here is what I would recommend. Get a good block and build a cast piston 306. The only machine work it will need is a bore/hone and block prep, figure $150. Find a set of good used GT-40 (not P) heads $400, a used Cobra intake $300, used E cam $80, new lifters $110, used 24# injectors $125, used C&L 73mm MAF $120, used long tube or shortie headers $100, rebuild parts $300, misc. for a few hundred more and your in business for around $2000.

A setup like this would be capable of running low 12's if you spent more money on chassis and suspension work. Hell, you can even run 12's at over 100 MPH with a stock engine if you work at it.

If you decide on a carb setup you may save money up front, but there will be more tuning issues and you will not get the reliability or fuel efficiency of an EFI setup. For an all out race car this isn't a problem, but for a street car, EFI is much better in the long run.
 

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If you decide on a carb setup you may save money up front, but there will be more tuning issues and you will not get the reliability or fuel efficiency of an EFI setup. For an all out race car this isn't a problem, but for a street car, EFI is much better in the long run.
Basically,I would say EFI is a better system but, in the real world money matters and a carb is the best bang for the buck

My car is carbed,has been together as a dailey driver for almost a year.I am making in the area of 275 RWHP,I have added some little things to bump up the HP number a litte(UD pullies,dumped exhaust,etc)


My car was driven all last winter and currently has around 13,000 miles on the combo.Car assumed a dailey 65 mile commute back at the end of April.I can drive my commute on $5 of 93 octane(less than 3 gallons).MPG average is in the 20s.I have little cash in my engine compared to most others.$800 Power Heads(CNCd E7s),$130 cam,$75 intake,$50 dist,$225 carb,$150 headers,a $50 stock based carbed fuel system,a set of $100 pulleys and thats about it.

The cars drivability is excellent,has only stalled a couple of times and HAS NEVER SURGED.Always started up in the winter with the -10*F cold in New England.The single plane intake with no exhaust crossover,no heat risers,etc works fine in the cold.

I would go carbed,for less than $500 for the whole intake,carb and dist and never have to worry about the finicky EFI quirks(chips,surging)

My 99% stock 86 GT was the worst.It surged all the time,would stall and had to idle in traffic while modulating the gas,brake and clutch to keep it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for all the help, what I meant with the$1000 is spending $1000 in go-fast parts above and beond the motor it self.
How go are those kits in summit for around $300 with all the bearings, pistons, etc? any good? my other option is get new short block from my friends dad(he has shorts and longs) this would give me a brand new bottem end, slap on set of prefromer heads used ($500??) or gt-40's, a decent rollar cam, used $80, wiend stealth intake, and a 600holley. It seems like it should make decent power? and for not too much $$.
I all ready have good exhaust, and pullies.
thanks for all the help so far
 
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