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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys

how does oil drain though the turbo? since the incoming oil is pressurized does it push the oil through the drain? OR does it only drain when the turbo moves/spin??


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i have a on3 turbo, ran for 6000 miles+ @ 10 psi.on stock short block. ran perfectly.

after new short block w/ high volume oil pump it started to leak oil and burn through exhaust. i upgraded the drain from 1/4-3/8(supplied line from on3) TO 5/8s line that fixed that issue.

soon after that, i had a external leak on the exhaust side (leaking out of turbo). so i added a restrictor. that didnt help at all. still kept leaking.

we rebuilt the turbo just added new piston rings and journal bearings. (dont worry we scribed the shaft,nut,compressor for balancing). rebuild went really well. feels brand new.

i have no idea what my oil pressure is.(maybe oil pressure is really high causing it to blow oil seal.) and im wondering if i should add my restrictor back in? or do you think the small drain caused the turbo to leak. i believe the high volume oil pump may be the culprit.

i just dont want to starve my turbo, if i put restrictor back in.

any info would be great. thanks brett
 

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To small return for that kind of oil psi. I would never go smaller then a -10 or 3/4. If the return is right then no restrictor should be required.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think I'm going to run NO restrictor. And get a oil pressure gauge to see what kind readings I'm getting


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Discussion Starter #5
Yes Only thing I had to do is cut some of the metal pedestal/space. To adjust the pickup-to-pan clearance


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Get a oil pressure gauge on the turbo it self if possible. Most turbos are built with a 45-60 psi oil pressure in mind.
Any more than that for long chunks of time will end with what happened. Pushing oil out.
Also get a -10 return on it.
That will help and make sure the drain has as strait of path with no unneeded bends to oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Get a oil pressure gauge on the turbo it self if possible. Most turbos are built with a 45-60 psi oil pressure in mind.
Any more than that for long chunks of time will end with what happened. Pushing oil out.
Also get a -10 return on it.
That will help and make sure the drain has as strait of path with no unneeded bends to oil pan.


thanks for your input. tomorrow im picking up a autometer electronic gauge. ill install that. and report back with some readings. also i have a 5/8in drain. and that is equivalent to a -10
 

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Sorry I needed to read your post a little closer.
Now after reading it.
Have you checked the center section of the turbo for oil coking ?
Which is burned up oil build up in the center section?
And since this is on a mod motor I am going to assume your oil pressure is high.
Also what turbo is this ?
 

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On3 said with journal brg they don't need a restrictor, bb they do. I would get as big of a drain as I could fit in there.

Sucks your having this problem as I will have a mmr long block and the hurricane oil pump, hope I don't have issues as well.

Off topic but what mods do you have and what whp?
 

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Journal bearing turbos pretty much will take as much oil pressure as you can give.
But they need to able to get rid of that same amount of volume with a gravity drain. Last resort is a restrictor.
And if you have crank case pressure that will also slow down return.
 

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The oil drain is gravity so make sure it has no kinks and is as straight and towrads the oil pan as you can get it. Make sure you are venting your crankcase very well too as excessive crank case pressure under boost will affect the drain to the pan and increase pressure in the turbo cartridge pushing oil past the seals.

I have a 3v which uses a high volume pump and I had to run a restrictor with all my journal bearing setups. I ran .065 for 2 years, never starved the turbo and still had oil seals issues after awhile. I saw 90 psi oil pressure on cold starts and 70-80psi cruising btw.

New turbo is oil-less! #### oil lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hey guys. I got the gauge in. Cold starts I'm getting 85psi. Then once it warms up and idling I'm at 25psi. Cruising around is 50psi. Wot til 4000rpms is at 75psi.

Im running the big drain now 5/8. I think the 2+ years of the ####ty 3/8 line is what killed the seals. Then once the new motor was installed that extra oil pressure with the 4v pump finnally blew the seals.

Today I put about 15 miles on it. It ran great. NO leaks. I will continue to run it this way if I start getting oil issues again I'll upgrade the drain to a 3/4in. But for now I think 5/8ths is pretty good, since that's what most guys use

As for crank pressure I'm pretty sure I'm ok. I have 3/4 inch line going from both valve covers into a vented catch can. The vent hole is 1 1/4 inch with a breather on top. Only down fall about. It being vented is the smoke vaper/smell coming from it. I'll get use to it though.

Also there was NO choking in the turbo center section. It was very clean. I did clean it though anyway

Thanks Brett


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Sounds like you got it figured out. With that oil pressure though your seal life is going to go down, even with my 10an drain and .065 restrictor my seals didnt last more than 6-8 months.

I would go ahead and put this in for safe measure, you could even drill it out a little bigger with a 5/64 drill bit so your around .08.

OBX Turbo Oil Feed Restrictor Fitting 1/8" NPT T3 T4 T0 | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok that's great because that's the restritor I have right now. Drilling it out little bigger is a darn good idea. Thank you or ur help


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I run one .064 restrictor before my two turbos.


You will ruin your turbo again without running one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Today I drilled out a 5/64 hole in the restritor. So should be .080 size hole now. Thanks everyone for ur help. Everything is leak free and seems to be running excellent!!!


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