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Corral Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All:

Was thinking about doing this. Car is a pretty much race only deal anyway. Anyone else done it?

Thanks!

Steve
 

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Its pretty easy.

All I did was remove the old alternator, and lines.
Place new alternator in car(1 wire).
Then run at least 8 gauge wire from the 1 terminal on the back of the alternator back to the positive side of the battery.
I used 4 gauge wire for mine.

I thought I had a pic of it, but I don't, can't find it.
 

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Corral Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds easy enough. What kind of alternator did you use?

Thanks!

Steve
 

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Steve

I am running a powermaster one wire got it in natural finish. works great and was easy to install no mods to the bracket, comes with a power wire.

Later
Tim
 

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I think people seem to have pretty good luck with the powermaster. I have heard of quite a few guys running them. I thought that when my AC/Delco dies.. I will probably run one.

Kyle
 

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Tim:

Would you happen to know the part number? Did you get a GM one, and make it fit the ford bracket?

Thanks!

Steve
 

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I used Powermaster on my 5.0L. Fits w/o mods. Summit # PWM-8-57140
 

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Steve

PWM-47140 $156 from Summit
comes with power wire

You may be able to get it a little cheeper. I had to wait a few weeks to get it in natural but it was worth it.

Later
Tim
 

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Would this work for street cars, as in one with a big sound system (1000 Watts+)?

Just doing some research and planning...
 

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The one wire conversion is easier than changing a flat tire. lol

I just did that about 2 weeks ago. Bought a Summit chrome 100 AMP alternator for $129 and cut out all the old alternator/regulator harness. I used the old 10 guage feed wire with the bolt on ring connector (actually used two old 10 guage feed wires), ran it to the POS battery cable and was done with the wiring.

BTW...UPS's small package division fleet of trucks all use one wire alternators in all the brown delivery trucks. I was having trouble with the charging system and one of the UPS mechanics said just toss the old alternator and do this....:D

Here is the thread that I posted...http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=597688
 

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OK I'm in need of a Ford guy. Someone who understands the OBD1, TFI ICM, and potential voltage spikes from the Alternator/Regulator. I have a 1991 Ford E350 7.5L Motorhome that keeps burning up TFI ICM's. They are fender mounted. Not distributor mounted. First one went out within 100 miles. Second within 200 miles. Third one in my driveway after replacing the second. I've researched every possible angle and replaced the Distributor assembly, wires, and coil after the first one. Looked into other possibilities and found out it was heat related from two, maybe three, possibilities Engine heat, resistance, and voltage spikes. I seriously doubt the third one was from Engine heat so I'm leaning toward voltage spikes. After removing the alternator/regulator I discovered it had been converted to a one wire in the past. I believe it is a Ultima Select internal fan, serpentine, with integrated regulator with a one wire kit. My question is : does the alternator produce the voltage spikes and isn't the regulator supposed to prevent spikes? If I have voltage spikes should I just change the regulator or is the alternator bad also? Since it's been converted I cant seem to narrow down a replacement 1 wire alternator. Since O'Reilly's cant test the regulator I cant tell if its the alternator or regulator or both or neither. Any suggestions
 

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OK I'm in need of a Ford guy. Someone who understands the OBD1, TFI ICM, and potential voltage spikes from the Alternator/Regulator. ---snip---
You'll probably get more assistance if you create your own thread. Your query is buried at the end of a 14 year old thread. That said, the quality of the new TFI modules isn't what it used to be. I just did a TFI reloaction and a brand new Motorcraft TFI stranded me a couple miles from home with about 15 minutes of run time on it. Put in my old 25+ year old TFI module and the car is back up and running.

To stay on topic, I have had great results from my Powermaster 130 amp alternator.
 

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OK I'm in need of a Ford guy. Someone who understands the OBD1, TFI ICM, and potential voltage spikes from the Alternator/Regulator. I have a 1991 Ford E350 7.5L Motorhome that keeps burning up TFI ICM's. They are fender mounted. Not distributor mounted. First one went out within 100 miles. Second within 200 miles. Third one in my driveway after replacing the second. I've researched every possible angle and replaced the Distributor assembly, wires, and coil after the first one. Looked into other possibilities and found out it was heat related from two, maybe three, possibilities Engine heat, resistance, and voltage spikes. I seriously doubt the third one was from Engine heat so I'm leaning toward voltage spikes. After removing the alternator/regulator I discovered it had been converted to a one wire in the past. I believe it is a Ultima Select internal fan, serpentine, with integrated regulator with a one wire kit. My question is : does the alternator produce the voltage spikes and isn't the regulator supposed to prevent spikes? If I have voltage spikes should I just change the regulator or is the alternator bad also? Since it's been converted I cant seem to narrow down a replacement 1 wire alternator. Since O'Reilly's cant test the regulator I cant tell if its the alternator or regulator or both or neither. Any suggestions
A bad ground to the alternator can cause it to max out,possibly causing a spike.The following link details the ground loop for the Foxbody and explains what happens when each specific ground is suspect,but the info can also be applied to other models.

How Important are Grounds in a Ford
 
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