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Discussion Starter #1
after installing a msd6al, msd claims theres no way the 6al
is responsible for frying my eec. the other thing i did was rewired
the alternator and bought a brand new battery. that day.
is this just coicindence or should i be cautious now. im buying a
eec from a guy i know 50$ i hope or for 120$ parts store with 90 day waruntee. either way i havent heard of many eecs getting fried on mustangs. any ideas?
 

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I also just fried my computer. I don't know why either, but I think anytime you work on anything that has to do with power like your alt. you should disconnect your battery. I thought I was careful with all of that stuff but I burned mine out too. Good luck. By the way,were you the guy who thought something was wrong with your fuel pump but it was the computer after all?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i screwed around for 2 days, i jumpered my fuel pump relay and the pump came on. i checked voltage at #1 pin on eec
and grounds #40,#60 all good. scanner didnt work either.
i put in a speed denisty eec and it fired right up.

i have a battery disconnect switch, it was off the whole time im very careful. i opened up the eec and no visible signs of a fuse either.
 

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88gt150k said:
i have a battery disconnect switch, it was off the whole time im very careful
Is your battery relocated into the trunk with the cutoff switch? I've got this too, and my switch cuts off the (+) only. Maybe current was still flowing through.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah thats right my neg. wire is still connected, i guess for now on ill disconnected my neg. wire also. which is what you should do. i dont work with dc current very often so i forget how it works.
i should go back and read up on it. but still the car was running
when the eec shut down, so its not like i was screwing with the wires when it happened . i guess ill find out when i get a new eec.
thanks
 

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Do you have a fiberglass hood? Did you check your codes before the computer got fried? After I put on my glass hood, I did not put the hood light back on it. So, the wire pigtail that goes to the light was unused. It is located right next to the pigtail that plugs into your code scanner. If you plug that hood light pigtail into your scanner instead of the other one, you will fry the computer. That's what I did. Doh! Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
lol thats not too good, i havent used my scanner in years.
until this to test the eec. but thanks good info regardless
 

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I fried my A9L too, It sucked. I knew my car was running really crappy, but I took it to the strip anyway, thing wouldnt pull past 4500 RPm, Ran a 15.7 with a 2.6 60' ft. Took it back to my engine builder, bumped up the fuel pressure, took out the 6000 chip, and replaced the computer with an auto computer. Took the stang back to Cecil, and it ran a 12.6 on some old ET streets
 

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Discussion Starter #9
maybe its just a fluke, im sorta glad my car wouldnt even start
i would of been chasing the eec problem for days, if it still ran.
i was using a auto eec also, not sure if there better than the a9l
 

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I'm wondering how compatible the EEC's are year to year for similar models. 88gt150k mentioned putting a speed density eec in his 88, which would probably be replacing a MAF unit. Could you run this way?
The other day when I was at the junkyard I picked up an EEC for an '88 GT just 'cause it was there and cheap I guess. I don't have an '88, I have a speed density '86 GT. I'm looking at pinouts for these EEC's and they're almost identical. The '88 uses a few pins that the '86 doesn't, and vice versa.
I was thinking that if I were in a pinch I could use the '88 in my '86 as it's probably made to be somewhat backwards compatible. Does anyone know about compatibility between EEC's? Thanks.
 
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