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Finally had my headers delivered. Holy cow are these things beautiful. With the k member installing is as easy as slipping them into place. No need to remove the k.

One issue though. The transmission mount for the 6r80 allows the output x shaft on the trani to hit my shifter housing that is on the upper side of the transmission hump if I install the 3/16" shim that is suggested in the instructions. If I remove the shim it just barely clears from hitting. Should I just increase the hole sizes on the trani bracket to lower the trani? How much clearance should be there?
 

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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
They mounting components are designed to provide the user with optimized U-joint working angles in most applications. If you choose to leave the spacer out, you may have to compensate for it by performing a rear pinion adjustment with adjustable upper control arms, depending on how low your ride height is. You are putting a transmission into a car that was never designed for it, so some amount of tweaking or modifying of ancillary components needs to be expected to complete the installation. I wouldn’t recommend enlarging any holes on the trans crossmember as that will just make for a sloppy assembly. I would modify the mounting of the shifter myself.
 

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OK, I will assume you are running the UPR mod motor K-member. If so, you would need the following:
Motor mounts= Prothane 6-504 poly or solid mod motor mounts, transmission crossmember=71222013HKR, transmission adapter= 71223019HKR (not yet available, but soon will be), transmission mount= 71223029HKR (black) or 71223030HKR (red), headers= BH3364 (1-3/4" primaries). I can also supply you with exhaust system parts numbers if you can tell me what you want in terms of muffler/turn down, or full rear-exit style system, 2.5" or 3" diameter, and whether you want 409SS or 304SS.
Hello, I have a question. So I purchased the BH3365 and having issues finding the correct motor mounts. I am running the 6r80 tranny and upr crossmember. I purchased the solid motor mounts as well as the prothane 6-504 and neither worked with the headers. And ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #125
The BH3365 and BH3366 headers are not installable with any K-members other than the AJE and Team Z swap K-members, which are both built with proprietary triangulated tubular engine stands. Only the BH3364 headers are installable with the UPR K-member. The bend geometry of the BH3364 headers is completely different than the bend geometry shared by the BH3365 and BH3366 headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Only the BH3364 headers work with the 6-504 motor mounts. The BH3365 and BH3366 headers require the use of proprietary Hooker Blackheart engine mounting brackets that are compatible with the triangulated tubular engine stands used on the AJE and Team Z swap K-members.
 

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Coyote swap 02. The fit of this system is great. I had to slightly massage the tunnel but nothing an old ball peen couldn't handle and it was slight. You'll have to clearance where the drivers side o2 bung is in relation to the floor board... Also slight.

Biggest challenge will be raising the shifter assembly, I raised mine about 7/16". With that you'll need to cut the 4 legs on the shifter bezel the same and you'll never know from inside of the car it was done. You will have to make this change because you also heave to shim your engine up 1/4" to clear the oil pan on the k member. I did use a truck motor so maybe if you used something else it'll be fine but I'll not sure.

Good luck!
 

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Todd, any idea how the M-6675-M52RR road race oil pan would work with the Holley/Hooker components? I'll be using an MM K-member with Prothane engine mounts, and I have the 70103317-RHKR headers. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Coyote swap 02. The fit of this system is great. I had to slightly massage the tunnel but nothing an old ball peen couldn't handle and it was slight. You'll have to clearance where the drivers side o2 bung is in relation to the floor board... Also slight.

Biggest challenge will be raising the shifter assembly, I raised mine about 7/16". With that you'll need to cut the 4 legs on the shifter bezel the same and you'll never know from inside of the car it was done. You will have to make this change because you also heave to shim your engine up 1/4" to clear the oil pan on the k member. I did use a truck motor so maybe if you used something else it'll be fine but I'll not sure.

Good luck!
Just to clarify for those following...no shimming of the engine will be required if the engine is being installed with a Maximum Motorsports, AJE or Team Z swap K-member and the stock Mustang Coyote, or Moroso 20571 oil pans.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Todd, any idea how the M-6675-M52RR road race oil pan would work with the Holley/Hooker components? I'll be using an MM K-member with Prothane engine mounts, and I have the 70103317-RHKR headers. Thanks!
I don't have any first-hand experience with that oil pan, but I can tell from the depth of its front half that you'd only have a chance of it fitting if you were using the MMKM 2.1 K-member and even then I can't say for sure. Is there a particular characteristic or feature of that pan that is of interest to you? I ask because Holley will be releasing a fabricated steel Coyote swap pan in the near future that will improve these installations and the component clearances present in them greatly. Will will also cost less than half of what that oil pan is listed at.
 

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I don't have any first-hand experience with that oil pan, but I can tell from the depth of its front half that you'd only have a chance of it fitting if you were using the MMKM 2.1 K-member and even then I can't say for sure. Is there a particular characteristic or feature of that pan that is of interest to you? I ask because Holley will be releasing a fabricated steel Coyote swap pan in the near future that will improve these installations and the component clearances present in them greatly. Will will also cost less than half of what that oil pan is listed at.
I'll have a MMKM-2.1 - waiting on that to ship.

I honestly don't know much of anything about the FRPP pan, just saw it mentioned in an article from a little while back on Hot Rod's website. I hadn't even looked at a price yet. My Coyote will be going into a dedicated HPDE/track day car, so I figured a road racing oriented oil pan might be a smart investment. It'll probably be next year before the engine makes it into the car, so it sounds like I'll have another option to look at when the time comes.
 

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I'll have a MMKM-2.1 - waiting on that to ship.

I honestly don't know much of anything about the FRPP pan, just saw it mentioned in an article from a little while back on Hot Rod's website. I hadn't even looked at a price yet. My Coyote will be going into a dedicated HPDE/track day car, so I figured a road racing oriented oil pan might be a smart investment. It'll probably be next year before the engine makes it into the car, so it sounds like I'll have another option to look at when the time comes.
I just swapped an SN95 using the Blackhearts and MMKM2.1. It looks like the header tube routed below the starter would interfere with that steel pan.
A4521EAE-57A6-4249-9117-5131D135952D.png
32F568EE-2BAE-43E2-86BA-101219D9CD6C.png
BFBEF6B7-B393-485A-8D44-26BA686EFF2D.png
 

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Discussion Starter #138
That could be the case and is something that happens quite frequently with parts that aren’t specially designed to work together. The interference issue that the Moroso pan has with JBA’s long-tube headers would be a well-known example of this.
 

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I just swapped an SN95 using the Blackhearts and MMKM2.1. It looks like the header tube routed below the starter would interfere with that steel pan.
Yeah, does look that way. Thanks for the pics!
 
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where can i get a x-pipe or h-pipe for the blackheart long tube headers for the coyote/foxbody swap ? i dont need anything after the X or H pipe
 
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