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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Holley Terminator X foxbody kit ordered that I am waiting to arrive. I have been doing as much research as I can in anticipation of the install, as well have a friend with a Holley HP setup in his car that I helped a bit with, so I have a good idea of whats needed but had two questions that I could not find the answers to yet. The Terminator X has been out for a while for the LS's but the foxbody kit is fairly new and I haven't found as much hands on install info yet.

A little background info on the combo if needed, its a 1992 5.0 Mustang;
  • Previously combo was stock bottom end, stock heads, stock cam with a Trick Flow intake and a Vortech A-trim supercharger with a 255lph in tank pump, 36lb injectors and calibrated MAF. It ran good and I drove it regularly on the street for two years including running it at the track twice. It was a stock A9L ecm with NO tune but I did have a wide band to monitor A/F ratios and timing was set conservatively (10deg base with spout out) and ran on 93 octane
  • I have now just added Trick Flow 170cc twisted wedge heads, 1.6 roller rockers and a TFS stage 1 cam. The car is back together after the heads/cam swap and runs but the A/F ratios aren't where they should be and I realize I was lucky the car ran as good as it did before without a tune but now is the time to upgrade to Holley efi over the stock ecm.
I have purchased (waiting for some parts to arrive) the following to add to the above combo;
Holley Terminator X Foxbody kit (550-937F), Can to USB cable, GM 3bar MAP sensor (12592525), Areomotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a fuel pressure transducer and Deka 60lb/hr high impedance fuel injectors.

I have read the instructions and various posts on the install, my questions are;
- In the harness manual for the 550-937F in regards to the fuel pump relay, it says "The factory fuel pump wire can be cut or removed from the relay and connected to the loose Green fuel pump wire in the Holley main harness" and it shows a picture of cutting the pink wire from the factory fuel pump relay under the drivers seat and connecting the loose green wire from the Holley harness. That is easy enough and makes sense and is how my friend wired his in his 89 mustang. My Mustang is a 1992 and the 92-93's factory fuel pump relays are located on the passenger shock tower and are part of the ecm harness which will be removed. Where do I attach the loose green power wire from the Holley harness to power my fuel pump in my 92?

- In the install manual for 550-937F it makes no reference to where the physical timing should be set at. It shows pictures of selecting a wot timing figure at 0 boost and a timing retard figure per lb of boost in the setup wizard on the 3.5" handheld but does not mention what the distributor should be physically set at or how to sync so that the Holley ecm knows what the timing is set at in relation to what its controlling.

Thanks for any help, I have been reading like crazy and excited to get my Terminator X soon and start on the install.
 

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So what i did with the fuel pump is i got the aeromotive fuel pump relay kit from lmr.its very nice and already has a harness sealed and terminated in the relay so all you gotta do is connect it to the battery and ground and then use the green wire supplied in the holley kit to trigger the relay. I then cut the harness that powers the fuel pump and was able to pull it through an already existing hole in the trunk and connected the other 2 wires from the relay harness to it using step down connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just finished installing a Terminator X in my 1992 and fired it up and here is what I did in regards to powering the fuel pump in case anyone with a 92-93 is wondering.

On the green plug near where the old ecm connected, there is a dark green with yellow stripe wire that runs power back to the inertia switch and then fuel pump.

I installed a relay with a power wire going to a power post I have near the battery. I ran the wire along side the main Holley power and ground harness that go direct to the battery. This is my power in and used the dark green with yellow wire (from the green plug) as my power out to the pump. I used the solid green wire from the Holley harness to trigger the relay and of course found a spot for the ground.
 

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How's it run BNF? What did you use for your 12v relay trigger for the ignition coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I fired it up last night for the first time. Used the wizard on the 3.5" handheld to enter parameters (engine size, map sensor, injectors, wot timing, target a/f, timing retard with boost, etc) and it fired up easily on the first try.

Had to feather the gas for a half a minute or so on the first startup and then the computer took over and it idled and started close loop learning and pulling fuel from the base table. I spent some time dialing in the throttle blade back and forth with tps auto-sets in between to get the IAC to read in the range where it should at hot idle but that was expected and described in the instructions. I had a bunch of idle time on it but it was getting late and didn't want to upset neighbors so that is as far as I got.

I was very impressed with how smooth the install and initial startup went. Within a minute or so on a base tune it was idling smooth on its own with no surging at all. With the stock ecm, I always had surging on cold start and would have to use my foot to keep it going until it got some heat it in before it would idle on its own.

I'm waiting for my can-usb Y splitter cable so everything was initally setup and adjusted with the handheld. After I shut it off for the evening, I hooked up my laptop and looked at the wizards base tune and it was a pretty decent start. There is a firmware update I plan on doing via the SD card next and made some target timing and a/f at idle adjustments that I will see how it likes when I get back out to the car in a bit.

What did you use for your 12v relay trigger for the ignition coil?
Instead of needing to add a relay for retaining the stock coil I utilized a MSD 6AL box I had but it wires in much the same as a relay would without the box. It has red and black wires to direct power and ground, white wire from the Holley tfi harness goes to white wire on the box (or would go to the negative side of the coil if using a replay and no box), and for switched power (during run and crank) I used a Y splice fuse tap at spot 18 to trigger on the msd box and holley ecm to turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Just a note for anyone reading this thread later on about to install a Holley terminator X in a foxbody. Be sure to read the included (or online on holley’s site) instructions for the ecm install as well as the harness install thoroughly as they are pretty detailed and cover everything pretty well. Familiarize yourself with the terminator software on the laptop and there is a help tap at the top that is an explanation on the tuning side.

The only two items I found that were not covered in the instructions as well as they could be were the two questions in my first post. What to tap into to wire a fuel relay to power the pump in a 92-93 (they show what to do in an 86-91) which was not hard and I posted my solution above.

The second was setting and syncing timing. This is very important and surprised this wasn’t covered in detail. There are some good posts about it on the Holley efi forum by a guy Danny Cabral, but the basics were I had my timing set to 10° base timing (spout out) prior to pulling my stock ecm out. The software happened to use 10° as the timing reference angle. Temporarily disable the "Idle Spark" control in Idle Settings. Check with timing light and turn the distributor to synchronize the initial (idle) timing, then lock it down. Now use "Enable Static Timing Set" to lock the timing at whatever you command and verify with a timing light. I use static timing values of 20°, 25° and 30° to make sure the timing I saw on the light moved with whatever I static set it to. Last, momentarily rev the engine, and watch the timing advance with your timing light. It shouldn't move. If timing advances or retards, adjust the "Inductive Delay" until the timing maintains itself. If the ignition timing retards, increase this value. If the timing advances, decrease this value. That insures at higher rpm, where it matters the most, the timing is still reading where it is tuned for and not fluctuating.

Hope it helps. While I was waiting for my kit to arrive I obsessed over reading all the info I could to be as prepared as I could be beforehand. These were the two questions I had and what I did in my case.
 

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Have you hooked up your laptop to the ecm ?
Was reading something quickly before on the Holley forum .. firmware not the same ??? Don’t quote me, But the SD card and laptop firmware are different and the car wouldn’t start?? Probably needs an update??
I thought I read something like that where they actually had to disconnect the ecm from power overnight to lose memory ..
I also read something to lines of pulling the SD card and installing in laptop.
By the time I get everything wrapped up you guys will have all the bugs worked out : )
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes I have hooked up a laptop. Its a bit of a pain switching back and forth the little connector so I ordered a y spliter cable so I can have the 3.5 dash connected as well as the laptop cable at the same time and just roll up and tuck the cable in the glove box.

I had the latest terminator x software on my laptop and the firmware on the sd card and ecu was a version older. It does not prevent the car from starting, it just wont allow you to send a global fire from the computer to ecm or make live changes. The best way to upgrade the firmware on the handheld and ecm is by the SD card. Pop it out of the handheld, pop it in computer, delete old contents and drop on the new contents, pop the SD card back in the handheld, perform the ecm firmware update. It is very easy and doesn't take long. There is a good youtube video showing how to update the SD card for dummies. Two important things to remember; save you existing global file if you have already had the car running and making adjustments, if you have a y-spliter make sure you unplug it and run just the handheld only when you update the ecm firmware.

With the holley ecm there is never a ti e you need to unplug power "to lose the memory". Infact the beauty part is if you need to unhook your battery for replacement or to work on the car or while stored you do not lose your tune or settings or any learning it has done. It picks up right where you left off.
 

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Thanks for following up with the timing sync tips. As 87smoke said, it's good that some of you guys are figuring everything out so the rest of us that are a bit slower to get things done with have all the tips and tricks laid out for us!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
One more side note, I already mentioned in another thread but figured I would update my thread again to document and act as a future reference if anyone is reading and about to install or has run into any of the same things I did.

One thing on the idle setup, I had overlooked and fought for a while before figuring out was that the fox body kit has the correct plug and wiring for the Ford pwm style IAC but it does require using and assigning an output. The harness is already wired and pinned for B3 output #4 on the J1 connector but I had to select Ford IAC in the settings and then assign (drag and drop) the iac pwm to output #4. I also set the hz frequency to 315. I had originally overlooked this step and couldn't get the IAC to do what I was trying to do and it would want to stall when coming to a stop as I put the clutch in because the iac wasn't "parked properly" and wouldn't catch the rpm's as they fell. I also had to give it a little throttle as I tried starting it to get it to go.

It was a big breakthrough once I figured that piece out and it starts great cold and hot now with out touching the throttle and holds idle nice when putting in the clutch coming to a stop. The car has been running for a couple weeks now, I've probably put 60 miles or so driving on it and making small adjustments to the tune and have been impressed how well I have it running so far tuning myself. I have made some decent pulls on the car and data logged and reviewed and everything seems pretty happy and safe.
 
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