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Discussion Starter #1
Thoughts on the best kit to tune a big inch stroker, big camshaft, with a Vortech supercharger?
The Holley from what I see is new, and 1/2 price. With the Pro M I'd also have to get one of there Mass air meters. Looking at $2500 vs. a little over $1000.
Anyone running the Holley? How does the harness fit?
Thanks
 

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My car is a 94. I am researching this very subject. The one item i did like about the Pro M is that it will easily work with the oem check engine light. But as mentioned it is rather pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Thoughts on the best kit to tune a big inch stroker, big camshaft, with a Vortech supercharger?
The Holley from what I see is new, and 1/2 price. With the Pro M I'd also have to get one of there Mass air meters. Looking at $2500 vs. a little over $1000.
Anyone running the Holley? How does the harness fit?
Thanks

Are you the infamous Nemesis owner???

Anyways I'm looking to install the Holley system on my 1995 as well. I do have a Pro-M mass air meter installed on my car, but I'm still running the stock computer that's been dyno tuned.
 

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Saleen
Are you keeping the OEM dash? I’m not the most tech savvy but it appears you can piggy
Back the factory ecm to maintain the dash functions and warning lights with Holley. This is important to me.

The Pro M is closer to $3000 for me with the meter. But you keep the dash and warning light set up.

Also thanks for the informative video.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Are you the infamous Nemesis owner???

Anyways I'm looking to install the Holley system on my 1995 as well. I do have a Pro-M mass air meter installed on my car, but I'm still running the stock computer that's been dyno tuned.
Nice! Have you heard good things about it? Do you know anyone who is running it?

Yes I own Nemesis, I'm not the one in the Video though I didn't own it then.


 

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Discussion Starter #8
Saleen
Are you keeping the OEM dash? I’m not the most tech savvy but it appears you can piggy
Back the factory ecm to maintain the dash functions and warning lights with Holley. This is important to me.

The Pro M is closer to $3000 for me with the meter. But you keep the dash and warning light set up.

Also thanks for the informative video.
Yes I'm keeping the OEM dash, I never thought about the warning lights.
The car I want to put it in has a full set of gauges. I'm just starting to research this. Can you post a link to where it shows how to piggy back to the factory ECM?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oops double post
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My car is a 94. I am researching this very subject. The one item i did like about the Pro M is that it will easily work with the oem check engine light. But as mentioned it is rather pricey.

Just found this on the Summit site, not sure how well it will work in a 94-95.

:Will this work with 94/95 gt?

Asked by SCOT on January 26, 2020


A:
This kit might work in an SN95, but it will not fit as well as it does on the Fox.

The Foxbody firewall has an EFI wiring harness grommet that the harness is designed to pass through.
The SN95 does not use the same grommet, so the harness is probably too short to put the ECU under the passenger seat.

There are several other difference between the two platforms also, such as wire colors on the factory harness, and the TFI module is located externally on the SN95, instead of on the distributor like it is on the Fox.

Holley
Holley Answer - January 27, 2020
 

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Thoughts on the best kit to tune a big inch stroker, big camshaft, with a Vortech supercharger?
The Holley from what I see is new, and 1/2 price. With the Pro M I'd also have to get one of there Mass air meters. Looking at $2500 vs. a little over $1000.
Anyone running the Holley? How does the harness fit?
Thanks
I have the higher priced holley HP, but I would recommend holley after my install and the tuning ability I have learned from my kit. The Holley forums can also answer your questions if you are okay sifting through a linked page of garbage and not given the answer you ask for.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have the higher priced holley HP, but I would recommend holley after my install and the tuning ability I have learned from my kit. The Holley forums can also answer your questions if you are okay sifting through a linked page of garbage and not given the answer you ask for.
Thanks, I'll go check out the Holley forums!
Not sure of your setup but do you think it would get a large cube engine running fairly good and idling with a camshaft in the 240/250ish @.050" range? It's not that big for the cubes really, but what about one on a 110deg or 108deg? Or would it have to be on a 112 or 114 to idle ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pro-M has been the best purchase I’ve made for my car, I’ve run a few different setups and haven’t done any tuning whatsoever.
Nice to know! It looks like an awesome system!
 

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Thanks, I'll go check out the Holley forums!
Not sure of your setup but do you think it would get a large cube engine running fairly good and idling with a camshaft in the 240/250ish @.050" range? It's not that big for the cubes really, but what about one on a 110deg or 108deg? Or would it have to be on a 112 or 114 to idle ok?
I have a 427w with a cam in the 250ish range and 110LS. I run the Holley HP & Idling was never an issue other than you're gonna want to set it around 850-900 RPM to have enough vacuum for brakes (I use the Ford IAC.) I have 8" vacuum. If there's any secret to it, run the AFRs around 14:1 at idle (default for Holley anyway), mid 13's in the light cruising range (1000-2500 RPM) where there's a lot of dilution going on due to reversion. This will save you a lot of heartache if you drive it on the street much and is a big reason the Holley is easier to tune vs A9L (wideband feedback.)

All my gauges run through an OEM side-harness that's not part of the engine harness. I removed any wires that connected to the engine from these harnesses that connect to the dash near the shock tower, moved one wire over to the side harness that originally ran through the OEM engine harness (could be oil or temp gauge or both depending on year and model.) The only part of my OEM digital dash that does work now is the mileage gauge that was never that accurate anyway once I went to larger injectors.
 

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I'm switching over to the Holley setup. I've helped install a system on a friend's ride and holy hell it was so easy and got rid of so much irrelevant wiring that is no longer used. When my Dart goes in the Holley will go in with it. The software is super easy to use and the support out there is MASSIVE. With Pro-M yes the provide good support, but it's not massively out there like the Holley is. For me the swarm of open information from so many users is a big factor if you aren't a pro like me.

Btw, I was just talking about that video a few days ago, that is insane that it pops up on this thread....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a 427w with a cam in the 250ish range and 110LS. I run the Holley HP & Idling was never an issue other than you're gonna want to set it around 850-900 RPM to have enough vacuum for brakes (I use the Ford IAC.) I have 8" vacuum. If there's any secret to it, run the AFRs around 14:1 at idle (default for Holley anyway), mid 13's in the light cruising range (1000-2500 RPM) where there's a lot of dilution going on due to reversion. This will save you a lot of heartache if you drive it on the street much and is a big reason the Holley is easier to tune vs A9L (wideband feedback.)

All my gauges run through an OEM side-harness that's not part of the engine harness. I removed any wires that connected to the engine from these harnesses that connect to the dash near the shock tower, moved one wire over to the side harness that originally ran through the OEM engine harness (could be oil or temp gauge or both depending on year and model.) The only part of my OEM digital dash that does work now is the mileage gauge that was never that accurate anyway once I went to larger injectors.
Awesome!! Thanks for the info!!
The HP looks awesome, Id like to give the terminator X a shot for the money it looks like it might work good.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm switching over to the Holley setup. I've helped install a system on a friend's ride and holy hell it was so easy and got rid of so much irrelevant wiring that is no longer used. When my Dart goes in the Holley will go in with it. The software is super easy to use and the support out there is MASSIVE. With Pro-M yes the provide good support, but it's not massively out there like the Holley is. For me the swarm of open information from so many users is a big factor if you aren't a pro like me.

Btw, I was just talking about that video a few days ago, that is insane that it pops up on this thread....
Sweet! Good info! I'd like something easy to tune myself. I have an old Accel DFI and had to go to a dyno evey time it was a pain. Even had one place blow the engine up with a keystroke, leaned it out instead of richening it.

Ha! Heres a pic of Nemesis now, I had to change the spelling on the plate since it was taken.
1056562
 

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Sweet! Good info! I'd like something easy to tune myself. I have an old Accel DFI and had to go to a dyno evey time it was a pain. Even had one place blow the engine up with a keystroke, leaned it out instead of richening it.
That's what bothered me about Binary Editor/Tweecer. I felt like when you changed something, it would change....but not at what you're telling it to. So it was just bouncing around here and there. Drove me nuts. I couldn't get past the 95% of having it run awesome and find that other 5% of perfect.
 
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