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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So to start off, I did look through the stickies and searched through the page and it answered a lot of questions.

But my main question is what is the weak point when it comes to road racing a bone stock foxbody mustang?

Also, I'll give you a little bit of back story. I've owned 3 mustangs, I've had 2 foxbodies and a 94 cobra. I had a baby so i had to quit on them for a while. I've done drag racing since i was about 16. And for example, i know the weak point on a bone stock mustang when adding power is the axles. So that was the first thing i upgraded. So again, what is the weak point on the foxbody when it comes to road racing? My guess would be the brakes, but you tell me.

Once i started looking again, i knew i wanted something unmolested. I found a 1992 foxbody convertible with 39000 miles. Factory airbox and factory ford stamped mufflers! Unfortunately it's an automatic but i couldn't pass on the deal. Paid 3000 for it. So far i've upgraded the seats and fixed a few things that broke from driving a low mileage car such as the brake booster and powersteering hoses.

But I didn't know what i wanted to do with it. I started daily driving it which is cool. But i think i'd like to have a nice cruising car and a car that I can take to some auto cross events. I don't need the MM Road race kit or anything. But i'd like to know a good starting point.

I saw the post, but could someone give me advice where to get started in the upstate SC? It's always more fun when you know someone that you're participating with.
 

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A full complement of chassis bracing is where I'd start, with the first step being proper weld-in subframe connectors.
 

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The convertible automatic is about the worst car platform there is for auto-x'ing or road racing. My first fox was an '89 5.0 automatic convertible. I blew up the AOD 6 times under warranty (I auto-x'ed it at least 20-30 times a year for two years). The chassis is a wet noodle, even with full-length sub-frame connectors. No one will allow you to HPDE on a track anyhow without at least a roll bar. The brakes are Charles Barkley turrrrble. The car is heavy and slow due to the gearing (mine ran 16.8's bone ass stock with 2.73s and ran 14.2s with shorty headers, roller rockers, a ported MAF, and 3.73s).

Granted, apparently AOD tech has come a long way in 20 years, and you could slap some AL heads on the car with a real intake, cam, and 3.73 gears and it would be plenty fast, I just don't think it's worth all that hassle, especially if the car is in good shape. I'd keep yours for a cruiser and go find a manual non-convertible to play with.

IF you insist on auto-x'ing, then I think the brakes must be addressed after chassis stiffening. That will allow you to go 5-lug with bigger and better wheel choices. Here's what else I suggest for Foxes on a budget:

Casey's cheap-ass foxbody fixer (ignore things you already have):

Koni yellows front and rear (buy Koni's annual spring 25% off sale)
front coilovers (375 lb./inch springs) (buy a used kit from MM or Griggs if you can find one, used springs are ~$60/pair)
junkyard SN95 FCAs with the balljoint spacer (stupid cheap)
SN94-95 spindles (~$100)
camber/caster plates
SN95 rear axles (stupid cheap)
used SN95 brakes (preferably Cobra stuff)(I got my whole '98 Cobra setup for $500 a while back, that was probably a very good deal, not sure what they go for these days)
MM SN95 FCAs on a Foxbody bumpsteer kit
MM 43TA7 rear springs (used ~$80/pair)
height-adjustable RLCAs (varies, anything but Granatelli)
torque box reinforcement kit (might as well while doing RLCAs)
1 rod-ended/spherical-bearinged UCA ($155 from TRZ, yes, they will sell you just one of each)
Panhard bar
various fox front and rear swaybars of different sizes from junkyards (stupid cheap)
18*9s (+36mm offset) (~$500 for cheap, round wheels that hold air. Not expected to be used for HPDE)
with 4 barely used 285/650-18 Continental GT-R slicks (~$500 shipped)
Bushings
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Guys I really appreciate all the feedback!

I agree worst possible platform. But I'm looking to dip into it not go all out. If i get serious, I'll want to switch.
 

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Like mentioned before, start with chassis, brakes and suspension. Dial in as much negative camber as you can get up front.
 

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Redirect all that money you would spend towards a Miata and a set of Hoosiers.
Yeah. But then it would be a street Miata.

I've been working my 86 Vert into a pretty nice DD and A/X/HPDE car. Casey is correct; to OT a Fox vert you need a rollbar. But it can be a 4-point and removable so long as you're not racing WtoW. Mine meets both SCCA and NASA specs.

While I agree with all that has been suggested, especially the chassis stiffening pieces, take the car out as it is before modding it (although check the wear items, oil and coolant). It is far more capable then the typical novice driver. Seat time is what you need. And once you've got some seat time you'll come to better appreciate the above suggestions and perhaps feel the difference post mod.
 
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