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OK sometimes my car will over heat driving normal and after beating on it. really depends on the temp outside...(i think) not exactly sure what it could be.. looking for some help or ideas on what to check because I DONT WANT TO THROW PARTS AT IT. Here is what I know.

The fan is working. If i were to just turn the car on with a/c on the fan will turn on. So that means the CCRM is working right? the heat and a/c in the cabin are perfect. I have the fan temps to come on at 180* low speed 200*high speed.

The coolant level is full. no air pockets. Ive check numerous times. Now I did put a new coolant res cap on it (pepboys) because I heard the Ford cap leaking one day when I turned the car off. I could hear a very slight hiss from the cap. maybe the pepboys cap is garbage.

Now yesterday when I got home I checked under the hood and noticed coolant around my pepboys cap.

Now one reason it could be heating up is because i have a big ass space heater that puts out 80 million BTU's in between the motor and fan!!!! but I wouldn't think it would affect it that much????? Its a ON3 performance kit with the master power turbo.

It has a cobra radiator and all the cobra cooling elements. Now should I put a 160* t-stat in it?, Turbo blanket?, bigger rad?, new cap? like I said I dont want to throw parts at it so help me diag it so I know what to do.

Thanks!



My temps usually would stay about the "O" on the "NORMAL" but lately they would go to about the "M-A"
 

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You might want to check that your low speed side is working. If you know someone with a good scantool ie. snap-on soluis or equivalent you can command the low and high speed fans with it. Since it's not overheating just running hotter than normal it seems like a low speed fan problem. Of course putting a FMIC in front of your rad doesn't help much. It might be time to get a better alum. rad.

But a system that doesn't seal will run hotter. I've seen it many times. I would go get another cap. Is it a stant? I've never had problems with them but I still prefer OEM caps. They tend to last 2x as long. If you have a IR temp gun you can gun your outlet and see when your t-stat opens. It's generally 5-10*F less gunning the outlet but it can help you figure it out.

And if everything seems in order could be a faulty temp sensor with crude buildup on the element or corrosion on the connector pins.

Oh and if your running the stock tune don't change the stat temp. You will kill your gas mileage and if your fans are working it will still run the temp that the fans come on at will in stop and go traffic. You would want to be able to change CL temp enable to run a lower stat temp. I actually prefer running 205*F stats in all my rods. Great heat output. I just loose a degree or 2 of timing when I'm going for a on the edge tune.
 
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