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Discussion Starter #1
Here we go. My dash lights went out a while back one night as I was driving. I pulled out of a gas station after filling up my tires and punched is, and as I hit 2nd gear the dash lights and A/C controls went out. Like everyone else, clock dims fine and everything else works (headlights, taillights, dome light).

So, I replaced the headlight switch. My original one was fine, the spring intact and all contacts looked good. New one did nothing.

Here are 2 pictures of the headlight switch electrical harness (backside of headlight switch). I noticed that slightly brown and cracked connection, but wonder if its causing the problems?




Now if we look at the switch we notice it is 3 rows of 3 plugs. Labeling them like this:

123
456
789

I used my electrical test light on each of them with KOEO and here are the results:

1,2,8,9 = light on
3,4,5,6,7 = light off

I'm no electrical genius, but does anyone have any ideas??

Thanks in advance,
Ben
 

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my car has the same EXACT problem. I put a new switch and connector on it last year, and it has toasted another connector. I am thinking its a bad ground, but I haven't had a chance to work on it yet. Maybe someone else knows???

If so, please help us!!! I am not looking forward to ripping my car apart and doing voltage drops, and measuring resistance everywhere.:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you mean by toasted connector? Do you mean the harness in the pictures I posted? If you have a test light, I highly recommend going out and doing a test on each of those 9 little plugs as I did. If our readings differ, that could help a lot...
 

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i mean my connector is burned up just like yours. checking for power will not really help us out here. what we have is most likely a bad ground that is causing too much resistance.

resistance = heat

it could also be a short.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll crack open the dash again and start looking for shorted wires. Also I heard the steering column wires -> turn signal lever can be a weak point causing bad results. As always, I will post my results...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
fixed the problem, fuse #13 burned out

I am a retard

the main portion was not where it burned, it burned at the top where at a quick glance I didnt catch it

I am a retard

thanks for everyones help....
 

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I've had this problem for the last 6 months also. My switch is cracked and burnt at the same spot. Fuse is fine.

I would like to find a solution to this problem too. I just pick up a new connector and switch, but if it's going to do a the same thing I need to look elsewhere to find the problem.

Question. Do either of you have alarms on your car. i read somewhere that the alarm can cause this short in the switch. When you activate the alarm it flashes the lights and horn, which will eventually cause the short in the headlight switch. I don't know if this is true but, just wanted to pass the info on.

Any suggestions?
 

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Ben,

I think there's still a problem with your dash lights. You need to find out why the fuse blew. The burned contact is a good clue that you're either not making good contact (high resistance in the contact = heat build up) or there is an intermittent short to ground somewhere.

The fact that the fuse blew tells you that there was too much current flow in the circuit, so If I had to guess, I'd say you have an intermittent short. That would explain why the fuse blew when you hit 2nd gear hard.

Are we re-sheduling the track trip for this Friday since it was rained out again?
 

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