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Discussion Starter #1
I went down to see Randy and the guys at True Blue Performance yesterday for a dyno tune. I had been there once before with a friend and his N/A Cobra and was very pleased with their service and support. Here is a long breakdown of how everything went...

After tuning on the N/A setup he gained me 8hp and 6.5# of torque PEAK. If you look at the graph below you'll see that I gained nicely all the way across the powerband. The reason that Run#1 is so short was because my auto tranny likes to kickdown into 2nd, so he had to wait to go WOT in 3rd. Also the OD demand was at 100mph, so the car would ALWAYS go into OD right around 100mph as seen. After the first burn on the chip he got rid of all that stuff Now I can hold 3rd gear until redline and it won't shift to OD. That was a big concern of mine and got that taken care of yesterday! Anyways, here is the before and after tune N/A graph...



Now to the nitrous passes... The very first pass(red below) was on a half used bottle, but I still had pretty good pressure of ~1000psi. He made a couple timing and fuel changes on the program and made another pull. It was a little off because the bottle was getting low, so we swapped in a brand-new full bottle. On a totally fresh bottle and ~1150 psi it made 339/482 with the A/F being right on the money. He made one or two slight changes to be on the safe side and we made one more pass to see if it would back that up(that was the blue pass below.) The peak torque number was down a little from the previous 482# pass, but I actually gained some more tq and hp on the upper end with a slight fuel change. Here is the before/after N2O graph.



All in all, I was a happy camper when I left there. I got good solid N/A numbers first, then tuned in the nitrous and saw right about what I was expecting. The NOS 5171 125hp dry shot netted me a 105hp and 177#tq at the rear wheels through my slushbox automatic tranny. I also gained a lot by tweaking the tranny controls. I will now be able to run 3rd gear out through the traps rather than shifting to OD and killing my trap speed. I expect to pick up a good 2-3mph in my trap speeds next time I hit the track.

Sorry this is so long. I hope this sheds some light on some info for a lot of people. Feel free to hit me up with any questions you may have. Once again, kudos to Randy and the guys at TBP. I can't wait to see that monster of a car run at the Mod Shootout:D

Mike
 

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Nice numbers! I don't see a Converter on your list of mods.....are you still running the stock one or have you gone to something better?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tim, it's still got the stock converter in it. My 60' times are always in the 1.95-2.0 range because of not being able to launch at a higher rpm. I can't wait to get a converter:evil: It is the next big mod on my list. Can you say 11.7s? :D
 

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Very nice numbers! I plan on doing the headswap and using the 5171 NOS kit. How is that kit working out for you? You running the 125HP shot on stock internals and it's holding up okay? How much did you pay for your headswap and where did you get it done at? And how much was the tune at True Blue? I was thinking of going there and letting them do my headswap and dyno-tune. I live about 5 hours away from them, so It better be worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Black98GT, the kit is working great. The engine hasn't hiccuped once since I've done the headswap OR put the nitrous on. As for the headswap price, I bought all the parts from Randy Stinchcomb at Universal Ford in Baltimore. I had a local Ford mechanic buddy do the labor for me. Parts and labor cost me $2200. The tune at True Blue was a very competitive price. It was $475 for everything out the door. I would DEFINITELY recommend Randy and the guys for your tune. I'm not sure how they are priced for labor and such, but I'm willing to bet that it's pretty competitive. I don't think you'd have anything to regret about having them do the work for you. Hell, I drove 3 hours for him to tune mine.

As for 300hp N/A... Good luck! It's gonna take a lot of P&P on the heads along with a Bullitt intake, cams, long tubes and all the other bolt-ons. If you take a look at the first part of my thread starter you'll see my N/A numbers in the writeup and graph.

Good Luck!

Mike
 

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thanks for the reply! I'm looking for all the info I can get. I know 300rhwp N/A is a lot of work and money, but I've seen it done on here. If I can get 275rwhp N/A, I'll be happy! Hopefully someone will come out with a aftermarket intake soon and I won't have to pay $1200 for the Bullit intake.

And so you are running the stock bottom end of engine? No forged parts what-so-ever? Any upgrades to fuel system? Bigger pumps, injectors, etc?

I think I'll probably get some oversized valve springs and stainless steel valves from Modmax. Maybe some aftermarket pistons just to be safe.

Thanks for all your info!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Black1998GT said:
And so you are running the stock bottom end of engine? No forged parts what-so-ever? Any upgrades to fuel system? Bigger pumps, injectors, etc?

Thanks for all your info!
It's got no forged parts at all. In fact, the stock shortblock now has 90,000 miles on it. The fuel system is 100% stock with the exception of the inline pump that came with the NOS kit. Still running on the stock 19# injectors.
 

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Okay thanks, you've been a big help! One last question, actually two questions.

1.) Are you running any safety devices with your NOS kit? Window switches, etc?

2.) How do you like those BF DR's? I'am still trying to decide between the Nitto's and BF's. Where did you get the BF's and how much?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Black1998GT said:
Okay thanks, you've been a big help! One last question, actually two questions.

1.) Are you running any safety devices with your NOS kit? Window switches, etc?

2.) How do you like those BF DR's? I'am still trying to decide between the Nitto's and BF's. Where did you get the BF's and how much?
Glad that I can help. As far as safety for the nitrous goes... Yes I have a window switch set at 3000 and 5800. I also have a FP safety switch and it's activated by a WOT switch.

The BFGs are freaking awesome. I know that there are a couple threads in the Drag Racing forum lately discussing Nittos vs. BFGs. Seems that the more worn that Nittos get, the worse they are for traction. For BFGs, the opppsite seems true. Take a look in the Drag Racing forum and I think you'll find plenty of info in there! I personally got the BFGs from my local Navy Exchange. If you have access to a Sam's Club, or BJs Wholesale I think that would be about the cheapest place to get them. Good luck.
 
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