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Discussion Starter #1
What are you running for head gaskets? I just blew mine,I was using felpro 8548 I believe with my trickflow heads. When I went to the Dyno Saturday we realized the gaskets had blown but I believe I blew them myself before getting it tuned. He suggested I use a MLS gasket and I won't have any problems. However,everything I read says I need to have the blocked and heads decked and I'm not gonna do that. I just ordered a set of felpro 9333pt1 gaskets because I did some researching and lot of people run those with no problems,so I'm just curious to see what others are running. I would rather blow the gasket than bend a rod.
Here's my setup: stock bottom end rebuilt,trickflow heads and stg 1 cam,systemax intake,PMAS pro tube 39#,and twin 60mm turbos with 5# each wastegate.
I didn't realize the gaskets were blown because I was running straight water in the cooling system and when I got to the Dyno I added a little bit of antifreeze and then you could smell it.
 

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Looks to me you already answered your question. Its ideal to have the desk prepped for MLS. But not required. That is the route I went after blowing my first set of heads. Mr.Gasket recommended me to copper rtv spray them to help against the un prepped deck. They held well but eventually went too do to a bad tune and 20psi goof on the dyno. I then went with the 9333's and never looked back. They work, and a hell of a lot cheaper than MLS.

9333's All the way. You didn't mention that you were using studs or not. If not take that money you will save not buying the MLS gaskets and install some ARP head studs. They will make the biggest difference in your sealing efforts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply,yes I do already have ARP studs. Do the 9333's need and copper spray or they go on dry? Also is re-tourqing neccesary after a few heat cycles?
 

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Thanks for the reply,yes I do already have ARP studs. Do the 9333's need and copper spray or they go on dry? Also is re-tourqing neccesary after a few heat cycles?
they go on dry,,,

I have the 9333's and run 18 pounds of boost through them...and yes, good idea to retorque the heads
 

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I used the 9333's also ARP's added 10ft lbs TF heads .....Minty!
Exhaust.....thats another story
 

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I always use the technique of torque the bolt on the top of the heads 10lbs more than the bottom bolts after your done with the proper sequenced order. To counter act the intake bolt when they are torque down. It always been good to me. If you over torque the intake it too can be the source of a blow head.
 

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Yea that's just what I do, picked it up from somewhere. Can't remember.

Go through the normal torque sequence and get them all torgue to the same 90lbs. Them run across the tops one more time at 10lbs more. Remember always work from the middle out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I pulled my passenger side head off last night and everything looked good,I'm hoping the other side is blown,if not I guess I have other issues. The other thing I noticed is my lower intake bolts were kinda loose. I must have re torqued them 3 times and they still came loose. I even used ARP lube on them like I did with the head studs,should those have gone in dry?Is it possible the heads were lifting and water gets through the gasket that way? I will post some pics tonite of the gaskets. I just want this thing to run right!!
 

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If they only leaked while under boost they can be hard to spot the bad area. Didn't really understand the intake bolts being loose. You are supposed to use a little anti siege with any bolt that goes into aluminum. I have never used lube on the intake bolts on torqueing. That may have been your problem. You may have stretched the bolts using the lube. And it may have caused a false torque and may have pulled the heads up slightly causing a weak point. I personally like to use a little rtv on the threads, that's just me. I also go through the torque sequence about 3 times on the intake too. I never go over 15ftbls.

If the intake bolts were loose you could have picked your water up from there. But it would be hard for it not to be in the oil also, coming from a intake port.

Do you put your intake gasket on dry? Do you use the rubber ends? The right way would be to put very little rtv around the water ports only on both sides of the gasket, then use a good sized beed of rtv on the end caps and tie it into the rtv on the water ports.
 

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When i installed my tfs heads i had my lower intake bolts loosen up 2 different times, it would cause a high rpm miss underload. I put some high end lock washers on and problem solved.

Next time intake is off im going to use arp studs, i would suggest use those.
 

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Also if your using felpro 1250 intake gaskets, they are thick, and will take many rounds of torquing before they tourque to spec. Seems like i went around 4 or 5 times with time inbetween before they compressed and held 15 or so ft lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes I put the gaskets on dry,but this time I will rtv the water ports. And yes I am using the 1250's. I also used the cork gaskets on the block with rtv on the corners so maybe this time I will use all rtv and get a set of studs for the lower manifold.
When I took the car out and even on the Dyno it would make and hold boost in 1st and 2nd gear,then in the 3rd gear pull it would cut out and fall on it's face around 3k rpms. The tuner figured it was the head gaskets and water was getting in and causing it to miss fire.
 

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I pulled my passenger side head off last night and everything looked good,I'm hoping the other side is blown,if not I guess I have other issues. The other thing I noticed is my lower intake bolts were kinda loose. I must have re torqued them 3 times and they still came loose. I even used ARP lube on them like I did with the head studs,should those have gone in dry?Is it possible the heads were lifting and water gets through the gasket that way? I will post some pics tonite of the gaskets. I just want this thing to run right!!
Same symptoms can be attributed to a cracked block. I cracked my 331 with 4.6 psi. How was your oil pressure? Any visible hairline cracks in the lifter galley? Did you drain the oil to see if there was any antifreeze or water in it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did not check the lifter galley yet,I will tonite. Oil pressure was very good on the stock gauge. I didn't drain oil,I took everything apart first and I'm sure there is water mixed in the now,even after draining the block there was still a lot of water when I lifted the head up. I just ordered ARP studs for my intake so hopefully they will keep it in place. Where do these blocks usually crack? Just in the galley?
 

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I did not check the lifter galley yet,I will tonite. Oil pressure was very good on the stock gauge. I didn't drain oil,I took everything apart first and I'm sure there is water mixed in the now,even after draining the block there was still a lot of water when I lifted the head up. I just ordered ARP studs for my intake so hopefully they will keep it in place. Where do these blocks usually crack? Just in the galley?
Search my threads to see how mine split. Strokeme has an excellent thread on here with pics and explanations as to why and where the stock blocks split.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I checked inside the lifter galley and couldn't see anything that resembled a crack. What I did find on the 7&8 cylinder was some deep scratches at the top of the cylinder bore,like the first 1/4" inside,I don't know if that's any cause for concern. I'm gonna put it all back together and hope everything works,if not I'll be selling my turbo setup and figure out something else. :confused:
 

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9333 or ford b51 what ever one you can get cheaper.

These gaskets are fine. I melted a piston one time and did not blow the gasket !!!

But have popped them a few times with bad tunes :rofl:
 
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