[Dave88LX]

You can reference here:
http://www.accusump.com/index.html

I read up on it, and I pretty much understand how it works, but a couple questions still remain.

For the cold start-up pre-oiling, it doesn't actually locate the crank & rods off the journals, it only starts oil flowing so that when the engine is cranked, there is already oil flowing so the parts can immediately get on the cushion of oil right?

Based on the descriptions, an Electric Valve setup is only used for cold-starts. An EPC is required for protection during braking/corners and any other loss of oil from the pick-up. I assume the E.P.C. setup also offers cold-start protection? I didn't see it spelled out in the info, just want to make sure.

I figured I would throw the tech info in this thread also, anyone wondering can see it all in one place. Prices listed are what's off Canton's site...like anything else, a dealer is cheaper.

For the tech, here's a little diagram I stole.

Normal operating conditions:

Discharging When Pickup Is Uncovered:

I'm also going to assume that I need the standard 3-quart setup? (Turbo 351W)

1 Quart - 12" x 3.25" (#24-046) $150.00
2 Quarts - 12" x 4.25" (#24-026) $167.50
3 Quarts - 16" x 4.25" (#24-006) $177.50
3 Quarts Hi-Pres - 22" x 4.25" (#24-016) $187.50


The Accusump Electric valve
(#24-270, $107.50) Provides convenient hands free operation of the Accusump. By wiring the valve into the ignition switch the Accusump will automatically turn on with your ignition and provide pre-oiling. This is especially useful when the Accusump body is mounted in a hard to reach location.


Electric Pressure Control Valving
E.P.C. Valving (#24-271, 24-273, 24-275)

Our E.P.C. valving has the convenience of an electric valve and the rapid refill rate of a manual valve. The E.P.C. valving allows the Accusump to quickly charge with oil when the engine's oil pressure is above a predetermined level and discharge when the engine's oil pressure drops below that level.

Comes with an electric valve, regulator, toggle switch, wire, terminals, and a pipe nipple.

Part #:'s
24-271 $148.50 E.P.C. valve kit for a discharge of 20-25 PSI
24-273 $148.50 E.P.C. valve kit for a discharge of 35-40 PSI
24-275 $148.50 E.P.C. valve kit for a discharge of 55-60 PSI


Manual Valve
(#24-260, $8.50)

This valve is the simplest and easiest to install of all our Accusump valves. It is ideal when the Accusump is being mounted within reach of the driver.

This manual ball valve has 1/2" N.P.T. fittings.


What E.P.C. Valve Pressure Setting Do I Need?

The Accusump E.P.C Valve is offered at three different pressure settings. Each valve is designed to allow the Accusump to recharge when the engine's pressure is above the pressure setting and to discharge when it is below.

When choosing the pressure setting that is right for your application it is important to consider you engine's oil pressure during normal conditions. You will want to choose an E.P.C valve setting that is below that normal engine pressure. This way when your engine is running normally the valve will allow your Accusump to accumulate oil pressure. Then when you engine drops below its normal pressure and the valve's pressure setting it will discharge its accumulated oil in the Accusump. If unsure of your engine's pressure it is best to choose the E.P.C valve with the lowest rating, the 20-25 psi valve.


They also were nice enough to put togother a parts list of what is needed for a typical SBF installation.

Ford V8 3qt. Accusump kit:
#22-565 Accusump input adapter
#23-245 (two) .5" to -10AN fittings
#23-705 (10ft) of high pressure hose
#23-725 package of two hose ends
#24-006 3qt. Accusump
#24-270 electric valve kit for pre oiling applications "ONLY"
#24-271/24-275 epc valve kit for racing applications
#24-200 mounting clamps
$429.75


My other question is about a turbo after-cooler setup they have. I'm going to guess that the standard accusump, and the turbo after-oiler are two independent systems? The standard accusump can't be used to perform the function of a turbo after-cooler can it?

Thanks very much!

-Dave

 

[Dave88LX]

ttt!

 

[Dave88LX]

doop-de-do

 

[Dave88LX]

 

[MAT88GT]

why do you want to use this Dave? Just have the bearings coated...

 

[Dave88LX]

Coated with what for how much money?

I want it exactly for the reasons listed...hard launches, hard braking, and pre-oiling...

 

[Gillettetg]

From what I have read it will pre lube the bearings even when engine isn't running, because it won't push through the pump in the wrong direction so it doesn't just go into the pan. It will push through the whole engine.

 

[strokeme]

From what I have read it will pre lube the bearings even when engine isn't running, because it won't push through the pump in the wrong direction so it do just go into the pan. It will push through the whole engine.

This is from 15 years ago

 

[Curt C]

From what I have read it will pre lube the bearings even when engine isn't running, because it won't push through the pump in the wrong direction so it do just go into the pan. It will push through the whole engine.

Where did you read that?

 

[Gillettetg]

This is from 15 years ago

I was reading it for the first time and it seemed the question went unanswered so I answered it.

 

[Gillettetg]

Where did you read that?

Accusump Basics

The Accusump can be intimidating. The Accusump can be broken down into a few basics. Oil Accumulators save motors. The Accusump is the best.

blog.cantonracingproducts.com

In the instructions and "accusump basics" in the link above. I just bought one and have been researching it.

 

[Curt C]

That link says the following:

“In the case of the Accusump, it is an automotive accumulator that plumbs into an engine's oil system to prevent pressure drops and also provide oil pressure to the bearings before starting an engine.”

I stopped reading after this. Perhaps you read something different?

 

[Gillettetg]

That link says the following:

“In the case of the Accusump, it is an automotive accumulator that plumbs into an engine's oil system to prevent pressure drops and also provide oil pressure to the bearings before starting an engine.”

I stopped reading after this. Perhaps you read something different?

Not sure how its different than what I said as it won't go through the oil pump backward very well so it pressurize the bearing till the accumulator is empty such as when you change the oil. So if I'm wrong about something I'm gonna have to ask you to be more clear.

 

[Gillettetg]

I'm not getting any reply on my thread. So since you guys are here I'm trying to choose a spot for the accumulator, I was thinking about the trunk and running the line by the drivers seat and putting a valve there. But it sure seems like a long way to push oil and routing the line in a car that has seats and carpet and trim, would get a bit cumbersome. But I would like to not have to spend $250 on a valve.

@strokeme I'm putting a 408 stroker in it that I almost sent to ford strokers, but the lady I talked to said they have been doing only dart blocks. So I found a guy here in davenport end up going with him. Only bring it up, cuz I notice the tag. My buddy got an engine done with ford strokers back when you guys still did stock blocks.

Anyway, 408 stroker 203 Flo-tek heads, forged pistons and eagle forged crank and rods. Haven't decided on the cam but looking at .580 lift. My builder hasn't told me and durations yet.

Scorpion rockers, high flow oil pump and restrictive pushrods, super victor single plenum highrise intake, holley terminator x max with the 1250hp stealth throttle body. Only mention cuz I know I'm taking to at least one well known builder with a good reputation. My buddy runs 10s on an N/A build of yours.

Please excuse my typos I'm used to fb and editing after I hit send lol.

Edit i have a 1993 foxbody convertable that used to be a 4 banger its solid. 5 lug conversion, I installed frame connectors and adjustable rear upper and lower control arms and front coilovers so far. Did battery relocation to trunk with kill switch. Looking at getting a rollbar too.

 

[Gillettetg]

@strokeme since I got ya here, my builder asked me if I wanted to go to a different valve spring my valves have .600 lift with the springs that came with heads and he asked if I would like to get springs that are .650 so we can get .600 lift instead of .580, he said what I have will work. So another question I have for you, will the gains be worth changing springs? They are flo-tek "the hammer" 203 heads with I believe 303 cfm at .500 on the flo bench.

I admit right now I don't know anything about building engines. I have been flying by the seat of my pants here.

 

[strokeme]

Your best to discuss this with your engine builder, the last thing he needs is people chiming in from the internet with nonsense and noise. And with you saying you dont know anything, the best advice is to leave this in his hands, with all due respect.

 

[Curt C]

Gillettetg sorry I misunderstood what you originally said. I have mine mounted in the hatch. No problems. It will disgorge hot oil very quickly. It’s a track day car so I have tested it many times. I can actually see it kick in. I have the electric valve.