Before and after comparison switching from your stock k member to aftermarket
No other changes.
No other changes.
Not the answer i was looking for... lolI went from stock k member stock a arms and stock struts with eibach sport lines to tubular k member, tubular a arms, lakewood 90/10''s and upr 14x175 coilovers. I saw 100% zero difference in 60ft, 330ft, and 1/8 mile et. This is when I ran 8.0''s so maybe there's a difference on a faster car or maybe it makes a higher power car more consistent who knows but I was very disappointed.
So what was the fix. I'm curious as I think I can knock some 60 times down if car would come up moreWhen we started out - we were using stock K-frame and Eibach drag springs strange struts. Car had 280ish hp and would leave wheels up EVERYTIME. Reaction times were excellent. I converted to UPR K-Member with coil overs 14x150# springs and the nose is like a STONE! I couldnt cut a light and spin city on the starting line. Was very disappointed. Ive spent the last 5 years trying to get the car to leave hard with the wheels up so that I can cut a decent light. I finally figured it out towards the end of this season. I don't blame the K-member - I believe its all about the stored energy in the springs. On a "slowish" bracket car I think the weight transfer is important to go rounds. If I could do it again I would use and aftermarket K-member but stock style A-arms and stock style drag springs.
Changed alot of things over those years. I think the following made the most difference. Car doesnt 60 ft any better. But it is way more consistent round after round. Pulling the wheels up out of the beams is huge for reaction time. Gotta cut .010s or better to go rounds at our local track.So what was the fix. I'm curious as I think I can knock some 60 times down if car would come up more
I will play Devils advocate for a second.....the car dose not 60' any better because you are wasting energy pulling the tires up out of the beams instead of making the car drive forward. If you got that same energy to drive the car forward, not only would your 60' be much better, it would not hurt your reaction time. Reaction time can all be manipulated with staging the car, practicing on the tree or changing certain things on the car. I improved my reaction time by changing the rear gear ratio on my car. The car now responds faster because of the gearing and I went from cutting .180-.220 on a .4 Pro tree to cutting .070 or better...all from a gear change. I can get into the .020's if I stage just a inch or so deeper. Actually, my reaction time is exactly the same, it is the cars reaction that has improved. All of my comments come from the perspective of a heads up racer. Not so good at bracket racing, .5 sportsman tree messes me up. 1/8 mile is what the car is geared for and in heads up there is no dial, just go as quick as you can.. Car doesnt 60 ft any better. Pulling the wheels up out of the beams is huge for reaction time. Gotta cut .010s or better to go rounds at our local track.
This ^^.All of my comments come from the perspective of a heads up racer. Not so good at bracket racing, .5 sportsman tree messes me up. 1/8 mile is what the car is geared for and in heads up there is no dial, just go as quick as you can.