Ford Mustang Forums banner

161 - 180 of 221 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #161 ·
I wonder how much computer hardware I've had to replace due to "updates"? Oh, that brand new printer doesn't have drivers for the newest Windows platform, sorry you're SOL! Best to just not think about it, hehehe.

Will the 2 gasket trick not solve the header issue?

Jay
I was a little surprised that it bricked it but super happy that they were so helpful and were able to dial into it the same day I put in the inquiry.

Not a chance on the double gaskets, we are talking major interference here, something I didnt even notice when I slapped them on, I didnt think I needed to in all honesty.

Got home last night from work and had an hour to kill so I tore into the Passenger side to see if my hunch was correct...



I had no options and I was not going to grind on the head so flap disc to the rescue....bummer that they were ceramic coated.







Drivers side impact points.....Ill tear this **** apart tomorrow night and get it ground down and back together.





If it wasnt for the stage 8 locking fasteners, would have been a much easier job, still not terrible though.

I also replaced the Mr.Gasket stuff with Remflex gaskets. I have had awesome luck with them sealing in the past, even on less than stellar quality headers and sealing surfaces, they are a thicker gasket than most others and dont need a ton of torque.

If this thing runs well I might think of doing some proper headers on it and ditch these but Ill try this setup out first and make sure that its leak free and I can get the tune buttoned up.

Small steps forward...Would be awesome if the WB2 showed up this week and we could get the tune all happy, might be time for a test around the block soon!!! 3 weeks till autocross.....time is now ticking.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
I think maybe a bit of high heat aluminum paint might hang around on that header flange?

3 weeks till autocross.....time is now ticking.
Boy do I live in the armpit of the World or what? Must be nice! Been below zero here for about the last week.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #163 ·
I think maybe a bit of high heat aluminum paint might hang around on that header flange?


Boy do I live in the armpit of the World or what? Must be nice! Been below zero here for about the last week.

Jay
Yeah, but at least you don't have months and months of wind and rain. Its insane how much rain we get here. At this point (42) I am ready for a drier climate but not desert hot. I would like to retire to Denver or Salt Lake City as I dont mind the cold as much as the wet.

Followed up with Haltech yesterday as I have not gotten shipping confirmation on that WB2. Their website says out of stock and on backorder for 4 to 6 weeks......so this may just hit the biggest roadblock yet. I have not heard back from them yet but if thats the case this is going to suck balls....

Managed to get some time and motivation last night to tear into the drivers side. What a pain in the ass. Getting the Stage 8 Locking fasteners off of every bolt head is a nitemare with much tighter access on the drivers side. I am contemplating a few heat cycles before I reinstall the locks and clips so that I know that I dont have any leaks.

I only managed to get the header off and its captured in the engine bay at this point. Its sandwiched between the steering shaft, clutch cable, master cylinder and brake lines and its not coming out without a bunch more work. So I walked away. Thinking I am going to just tape off the exhaust ports and use my die grinder with a 1.5" flap disc to clearance the header and put it back in place. I really dont want to have to remove more **** at this point.

Was hoping to get this ironed out and get to tuning before what would be the first event in March but its not looking good at this point.

On a brighter note, they are still forecasting snow in the Portland Metro area so maybe, just maybe we get a little winter wonderland.

Happy Thursday,

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
FWIW, I've had much better luck with header sealing using Copper RTV. And, you get more clearance at the steering shaft.

As for A/X, Washington Region SCCA moved to Summit Point from FedEx Field. The Skins management were just asking too much and imposing too many restrictions. So, March 28th is our first - yay :).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #165 ·
FWIW, I've had much better luck with header sealing using Copper RTV. And, you get more clearance at the steering shaft.

As for A/X, Washington Region SCCA moved to Summit Point from FedEx Field. The Skins management were just asking too much and imposing too many restrictions. So, March 28th is our first - yay :).
I have had good luck with it on flanges and V Bands, but I dont think I could stand looking at it on a head/ header connection, sorry but my OCD is strong.

Summit Point sounds like a fun place to have an AX? That is pretty early in the year for your weather isnt it?

They managed to find one in their stock that they are shipping out on Monday so that is great news I wont be down for all winter waiting. I am just hoping it works.

Got a bit of time last night to work on this ****box. Managed to clearance the header in the car and got it all back together, heatcycled it, retorqued the header bolts and installed the locking washers and clips.

On a side note. I like the MARCH airbox, but if I am 100% truthful, its an absolute pain in the ass to work around. It almost touches the alternator wiring, the upper radiator hose hits it and its a pain in the ass to get the filter and intake tube in and out of. I am contemplating running the filter out the fender and run a shield around it with a filter sock. It would make working on the car so much easier, and that is part of why I am building this thing.

Have a small leak on the PS Pump that Ill need to address.

Question for the hive.....I have a nice Sparco 6 bolt wheel that I would like to run but need an adapter and I really dont want to run the convoluted tube MOMO adapter. What else is out there that is readily available?

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
I have had good luck with it on flanges and V Bands, but I dont think I could stand looking at it on a head/ header connection, sorry but my OCD is strong.
Mine is really only visible on the DS and you have to get in there to look; PS not so much. If you're careful and conservative in the amount used, there won't be much in the way of squeeze from tightening the header bolts. But I get OCD - my wife has that "affliction".

Summit Point sounds like a fun place to have an AX? That is pretty early in the year for your weather isnt it?
Summit has been used for so-called "track-cross" (use parts of the road course with cones) by other clubs, but I'm not sure that is what the DC SCCA is planning. We did a T'nT there two years ago which was less than optimal (small course - 25 sec for fast cars).

Late March can be. Last year was mild so I guess they assumed a similar Winter this year. But recently the weather has been very cold with lots of snow. We shall see. We also have two schools and a T'nT scheduled for late April.

On a side note. I like the MARCH airbox, but if I am 100% truthful, its an absolute pain in the ass to work around. It almost touches the alternator wiring, the upper radiator hose hits it and its a pain in the ass to get the filter and intake tube in and out of.
My motor is set back 1" so the two problems with the alternator and upper hose aren't issues. I recently removed my intake pipe and that was a pain, but then so was the stocker. Otherwise, routine maintenance appears to be no harder than with a stock box/ piping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
A trick I use with caulk for interior trim might work well with controlling the "squeeze". Tape off where you don't want the caulk to be (RTV in this case) mount piece to be glued in place, feather with tool or finger, remove tape. Absolutely beautiful my dear! (the wife tells me).

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #168 ·
A trick I use with caulk for interior trim might work well with controlling the "squeeze". Tape off where you don't want the caulk to be (RTV in this case) mount piece to be glued in place, feather with tool or finger, remove tape. Absolutely beautiful my dear! (the wife tells me).

Jay
That is how I do trim as well, works good.

We got hammered with a crazy snow and ice storm over the past 4 days. We usually don't get much ice or snow here so we are really not geared up for it. So that meant no biking this weekend so I was fairly productive in the garage. Managed to get all of the parts I was not going to re-use posted up and Sold on Saturday night. Pretty stoked, someone got a great deal and I got my garage space back.

Got all of the little odds and ends buttoned up.

Intake tube on and tightened up, TFI Module relocation installed and mounted up on the passenger frame rail, Misc wires all tied up and zip tied out of the way. Dropped the fuel tank and installed the BBK 255 fuel pump and threw a new filter in while I was at it. Got the final adjustments done on the clutch, got the wheels and tires on and got it on the ground. Checked that it goes forward and reverse and the clutch works.







Got a ****ty shifter knob and got that on for temp use, tore the drivers seatbelt latch apart as one of the pins was backwards and got that fixed up. Also got the gates greenbelt and got that installed. Lots of little stuff done.

Fuel system is back in and it starts, runs, and moves on its own power. Even got it to idle for a bit.



WB2 should be here on Wednesday or later this week so should be able to resume the tuning process.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
What kind of shift knob or handle do you prefer? Maybe it's an age thing, back when I was young, the round plastic knob (as in Hurst) is what you would see in most performance cars, and it just feels right to me. When I had more straight line type cars, I used straight line shifters with a T-handle on them.

I was wondering if the latest shot of the engine bay would still have the air box. I think it looks good in there, but I can certainly understand the desire to have working space.

Also you mentioned you would show what you use to loom your harnesses, would appreciate a shot of that since you have all of this non-biking time.

I should say sorry about the weather, at this point I'm kind of thinking misery loves company, maybe it will return to normal shortly. Car is looking great, as always your skills are evident. Oh, and your garage looks pretty darn tidy too, I'm sure you will miss that leaky old POS LOL!

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #170 ·
What kind of shift knob or handle do you prefer? Maybe it's an age thing, back when I was young, the round plastic knob (as in Hurst) is what you would see in most performance cars, and it just feels right to me. When I had more straight line type cars, I used straight line shifters with a T-handle on them.

I was wondering if the latest shot of the engine bay would still have the air box. I think it looks good in there, but I can certainly understand the desire to have working space.

Also you mentioned you would show what you use to loom your harnesses, would appreciate a shot of that since you have all of this non-biking time.

I should say sorry about the weather, at this point I'm kind of thinking misery loves company, maybe it will return to normal shortly. Car is looking great, as always your skills are evident. Oh, and your garage looks pretty darn tidy too, I'm sure you will miss that leaky old POS LOL!

Jay
I am a knob type person, I have never understood the T Handle thing. I think that is an old drag racer carryover. =)

Yeah I kept the air box. I actually added on the flex duct and ran it up behind the bumper to try and ensure that it doesnt suck in water, it points towards the back of the bumper so it should be ok.

I buy this locally at a supply place by the box (50, 75 and 100' lengths) its spendy but far less than buying the Painless loom kits.


Garage has been a mess, was so nice to get it cleaned up. I am super OCD so my "messy" garage is clean to most people. Appreciate the props on the car. I wish I had a good painter I could drop it off with and get it all smoothed out and shot with one color that would hold up better to the elements. I dont even want a nice paint job, just something better than what it has.

Guy came for the second round of parts last night so was able to get rid of the engine and trans. I still need to pick apart the parts off of the shell and get rid of the shell, but its on the trailer and kind of out of sight out of mind right now.

I have been walking around the rear seat delete kit for months now, it needed to be pretty modified to work with the roll bar that is in the car but after getting tired of looking at it I busted it out and measured a bunch and got to cutting.

I need to make some kind of a cover for the top edge but it really cleaned up the rear seat area. Just cause its a track car doesnt mean it needs to look like a POS.





Also found a great condition shift boot so I got that mounted up to the bezel (Hot Glue to the rescue) and got that installed. Interior is cleaning up pretty well. Really hoping all this snow doesnt delay my Haltech parts too long I would love to get the WB2 installed and keep going on the tune. 2 weeks till the first autocross....barring weather.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
Maybe a small row of leopard skin fur to trim up the top edge? Of course then you'd have to add the fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view! Just kidding in case you couldn't tell. Maybe some edge guard like the link?

32ft Car Door Edge Trim Guard Molding Rubber Seal Strip Scratch Protector Black | eBay

The rear panels look great, in fact the interior looks sweet for a track car. At some point I do hope you get the car painted, you deserve a car that looks as good outside as it does inside!

Thanks for the link to the braided loom sleeve, that is miles better than the corrugated plastic crap I've been using.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #172 ·
Had a little bit of time to spend with the Tuner on Friday afternoon. We made good progress on the car and had a lot of the idle surge worked out, still have a little bit of work to do when the fans shut off recovering from that, but it was well worth the time, start up is good, idle is pretty dialed.

We did run into 2 snags. I almost ran it out of fuel and somehow the alternator would stop charging after the fan would start. I only noticed it as the battery light on the dash would stop coming on after it got warm and the fan ran with the engine off key on.

So I did a bunch of research on the topic. The stock High Current connector on my car had been replaced by the previous owner with just crimped on spade connectors and those were sandwiched up against that stupid March Air Box. Between that, the poor sized alternator and power wire I knew that an upgrade was needed.

Managed to round up some parts.....95 Mustang GT Alternator, 10' of 4 ga power wire, a 150 amp fuse and some ends for the 4 ga wire. All in, these parts were cheaper locally than they were to buy a kit and if I have an issue with the alternator its an over the counter swap out with my local parts place.

Rant here for a second. The March Intake is a great design I love what it offers......However it is a total nitemare to work around. I have to remove the alternator to get the box out and back in. If they had a slightly better design on the box it would make it so much better for the serviceability of the car. This time I put studs in from the fender facing in so that I could just use nuts from the inside to make it easier. Its still a total pain in the ass. Rant over.

I was so shocked once I dug into the factory wiring and connections on the alternator...



These 2 10 Ga wires just go to a single 10 Ga wire and back to the starter solenoid....



Typical stuff, Clearanced the alternator bracket, I added in a Helicoil into the alternator so I can use the stock bolt and not have a nut and washer. I ran the 4 ga wire in loom over to the battery and have a 150 amp fuse holder mounted just above the battery I picked up from West Marine. They have a great electrical selection of parts if you ever need something in a pinch.





All in all pretty happy with how it turned out. Fired the car up and it charges like a normal car, you can even run the lights and the blower fan....AT THE SAME TIME!!

The old setup was questionable at best, I would have voltage drop when the fan came on and went off and always worried about the fan and lights on. I turned it all on and at the same time and only dropped down from 14.5 to 14.2 volts. I let it run through several cycles and had zero issues so I believe that problem is all sorted out.

So I took it for a spin around the neighborhood. It actually runs pretty darn good, just putting around, its smoother than the old setup with less vibration as well. I only putted but got it in 3rd and all 3 gears worked. Still needs a boatload of tuning, has a lot of backfires on decel but thinking that the settings in the fuel cut are not right and it falls on its face with any kind of load.

I managed to sell off all of the parts and the car that I pulled the engine from and ended up keeping a few things. I kept the rebuilt t5, new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and bellhousing, obviously the engine complete, the full Haltech Stand Alone, Wire harness, Wideband controller, MSD Billet Distributor, Trick Flow heads, cam, intake and all of the goodies attached to it. I am only out of pocket $1,400 for all of that stuff...I think it worked out pretty well and everything I had left over is sold and going to a good home.

Hope everyones weather has settled down a bit as ours has gone from 20's and a foot of snow to 50 and rain =)

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #173 ·
Well, with everything new you learn something. I have been working to get this thing ready to tune and we were going to have a dry day yesterday so I headed home from work a couple hours early and got online with the tuner so we could work on this **** can some more.

We had worked out a lot of bugs, even made a few short low RPM runs around the neighborhood and we were making good progress.

We got the idle really good, free rev and return to idle all worked out and went to drive it and as soon as you would get to 3600 rpm it would just fall on its face, buck and be very unhappy. So we did a bunch of messing around and research and found that the Distributor is a hall effect, not a VR as it was set in Haltech. We made that change and just tried it, it would finally rev to redline but we had lots of other issues now, timing was way off, we reset the base timing and the timing offset in Haltech and we had to pull a bunch of timing out of it to get it to run right.

Unfortunately this change to Hall Effect had a ton of other changes and we are effectively starting over from scratch so its back to the Drawing board and starting over on the tune now as the idle is all pissed off and we need to revise the VE table across the board.

I got pretty frustrated yesterday as it didnt seem like we were getting anywhere, but at least I know that we are on the right track now. I am still unsure of why it doesnt like the timing. We were almost exactly where the a9l timing table was and it would at low rpm. We took about 8 Degrees out and it ran so much better. Its probably going to need to go on a dyno to get timing set where it needs to be unfortunately.

So I needed a nice easy project. I had ordered a MOMO steering wheel adapter weeks ago and it finally showed up. I got the old wheel off and put on the adapter, only to find out that something is wrong with it and you cannot turn the wheel once the bolt is tightened down, so that went to ****.

I think its time for another break as I am frustrated with this thing.

Anyone that is running stand alone on an NA Foxbody willing to share their timing table with me so I can compare to what I am running?

Thanks in advance,

Sean
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
763 Posts
Like Jay said contact Decipha. He did a great job on my car when I need to get it tuned. He is quick to respond and easy to work with getting the car tuned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
Anyone that is running stand alone on an NA Foxbody willing to share their timing table with me so I can compare to what I am running?
Explorer short block, ported Explorer intake, Canfield heads, FTI cam, long tubes.

Street tuned only, so take it with a grain of salt.

1070237
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Sorry to hear about the complications, Sean.

Not to throw in the towel here, but if it were me, I’d go to a dyno. Then again, I’m pretty clueless when it comes to tuning in general. Any tune issues I’ve ever had with any car were solved by a dyno and a good tuner. Although, I would try Laminar’s tune first... won’t hurt the pocketbook like dyno time does!!

Who knows? It just might work. I’m sure you’ll get it sorted... You’ve done this 100 times before =)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #178 ·
(2) efi dyno tuning updated -opinions | Ford Mustang Forums (corral.net)

send a PM to this guy (Decipha). He does remote tuning, he is always willing to help a Mustang guy.

Jay
Like Jay said contact Decipha. He did a great job on my car when I need to get it tuned. He is quick to respond and easy to work with getting the car tuned.
Looked over his website and it looks like he really knows the Factory Ford stuff but doesnt have any experience with Haltech. Appreciate the pointers though.
Explorer short block, ported Explorer intake, Canfield heads, FTI cam, long tubes.

Street tuned only, so take it with a grain of salt.

View attachment 1070237
Thank you for posting this up, it helped with my troubleshooting and I really appreciate it.

Sorry to hear about the complications, Sean.

Not to throw in the towel here, but if it were me, I’d go to a dyno. Then again, I’m pretty clueless when it comes to tuning in general. Any tune issues I’ve ever had with any car were solved by a dyno and a good tuner. Although, I would try Laminar’s tune first... won’t hurt the pocketbook like dyno time does!!

Who knows? It just might work. I’m sure you’ll get it sorted... You’ve done this 100 times before =)
Thanks man. I am pretty close to that option, but need to just flush out the hand I already have before I do a redeal.

Needed to take a break from this thing as it was starting to burn me out again. We kept working on it for a few more evenings and got it running better. Still seriously questioning the timing and it has a few other issues still. Dies when coming to a stop on occasion and low speed driveability sucks.

I have been questioning the MSD Distributor since day one so I finally picked up a used factory ford Distributor. Got it home, cleaned it up and threw it in. Pulled Spout connector and set the base timing at 10 degrees (Where we had the old one set). However I instantly noticed that the timing was more steady than before. When I set it at 10 degrees it was dead on 10 degrees as before it kind of danced around 10 degrees.

Took it out for a spin and it has considerably less get up and go than before so I believe my hunch that the MSD was somehow adding in additional timing is correct and that we can now go back to a proper timing table.

Going to take another stab at it with the tuner with the crap stock distributor in place and see if we can get it ironed out. Backup plan is a tuner in Seattle that has lots of Haltech and Foxbody experience. Shooting to have this thing ready to rock in the next 3 weeks.

Happy Thursday!!

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
Really glad to see you back at it, I was trying to think of some more ideas for a motivational post, coming up pretty dry. I think I must have emptied the tank first round.

I wish I could have shown the spark tables on my car, there was so much snow drifted up against my garage door at the time I couldn't even get in there. Using Pro-M, the tables are untouched from what comes with the system. Snow has pretty much all gone if you would like to see them.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #180 ·
Well as you can see by my total lack of updates here that motivation has taken a steep decline here =)

I did finally get around to some other more fun bits the last week or so.

I had ordered one of these little spoilers, I know its just for looks really but I like it and it went on pretty easy. I also had my buddies 3d print out some ****fox emblems for me, this was the first round and a little too thick. Round two is coming soon



I also messed around with some rattle can on the trunk lid as the three tone paint was really getting to me. Trunk turned out great so I decided to do it all.





The whole car got hit with some 320 on a DA and I lightly hit some spots with Rustoleum Canyon Black is Satin, then went over the whole thing dusting it with Matte Clear. Hindsight should have just painted the damn thing with real paint but I am into this maybe a day and a half and $50.00 in materials and it looks pretty good right now. I don't expect it to hold up well.

I also replaced the badly jacked up rear bumper that was on it, easiest bumper replacement ever, hands down and the new one fit perfect, zero modifications what so ever.







I installed all new front lights on the car, new hood cowl vent, new lower window trim along with new raingutter mouldings and a new trunk seal. Did some good motivation for me.

So now what. Corner Balance needs to happen tonight then load on the trailer. Heading up to Seattle area for a Dyno tune on the 1st. I have a boatload of spare parts and I am hoping that we can get the tune nailed in one day.

Come back that night, then Friday the 2nd 9 am over to the chassis shop for a proper setup and alignment, 2 pm headed to PIR for the Oregon Region SCCA Time Trials for the first go at it with this new setup.

Have track days lined up for the next three weekends and some AX sprinkled in here and there.

Sean
 
161 - 180 of 221 Posts
Top