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Search a little more and you will find several members running the GT40P heads with a turbo or SC. If you have the heads surfaced, use head studs, 9333pt gaskets and get a good tune you should be fine at boost levels high enough to split your block.

There are lot's of people running around with 9psi and no problems. Lots of people running less boost have blown head gaskets because they neglected to get a tune, didnt get the heads surfaced or had a block deck that was not perfectly true.

I blew a HG on a 302 with AFR heads which many of people consider some the best heads on the market for running big boost. It happened at 9psi because I got a bad tune from someone who didnt know how to tune a KB car with meth. Doesnt mean AFR heads are bad with boost. I've also run 12psi with ProComp heads which most consider some of the worst heads made and never blown and HG.
 

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Thanks for the info, so If I dont surface the heads, do I still need the studs, and is it ok to still run that same 9333pt gasket?
You can get the heads surface for $40 bucks. I've never run them on turbo or sc car without doing it. They could be slightly warped and then you'll get to do it all over again. Ask me how I know. And yes, you need the studs and I'd recommend the 9333pt's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh I see. So when you run the studs, I imagine it makes it easier to get the heads on and in the perfect position right? since u basically just slide em on? Guess I need to get some studs for my heads and intake, cause I like that idea.
 

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Oh I see. So when you run the studs, I imagine it makes it easier to get the heads on and in the perfect position right? since u basically just slide em on? Guess I need to get some studs for my heads and intake, cause I like that idea.
If the short block is in the car you can install the studs on the passenger side and then drop the head on. The drivers side is pertty tight and most like to put the head on and then screw the studs in. Studs are used because they provide a more consistent clamping force. I'm no engineer so thats the best way I can explain it. After having one SC car with ARP bolts and the wrong gaskets I learned my lesson.

Make sure to put either ARP thread sealer, black RTV or teflon tape on the lower head studs. I always drain the coolant from the block and shop vac the water jackets. Then I clean the lower bolt holes with q-tips dipped in denatured alcohol to make sure they are clean and seal so I don't get any water/anti freeze weeping from them.
 

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GT40P, ARP studs and 9333 gaskets on my car.

I wound up there after blowing some hg with the regular headbolts-there may have been other factors too. You do need to follow the torquing instructions well.

Another nice to have is ARP exhaust manifold studs. It makes it easier to put the turbo stuff on and off.
Erich
 
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