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Discussion Starter #1
So I got my sons engine pulled and disassembled yesterday and have some questions.This is out of his F150.

The pushrods on the driver side are shiny and the passenger are black, looks like the oil is baked on.

How does the crank look, it feels smooth. Can I run it as is?

Look at the back of the block, the oil galley ports are tapped. Is that factory?

The bores actually looked good, you can still see factory cross hatching. I measured the top of the bores and they were 4.000-4.002. Not bad for a 160,000 mile engine. This is a budget rebuild with gt40 heads of an explorer. I will get it bored and honed next. 20190414_121353.jpg 20190414_121751.jpg 20190414_115453.jpg 20190414_153756.jpg

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The bores actually looked good, you can still see factory cross hatching. I measured the top of the bores and they were 4.000-4.002. Not bad for a 160,000 mile engine. This is a budget rebuild with gt40 heads of an explorer. I will get it bored and honed next.
Why bore it if the cylinder is still in spec? If you can still see the factory hatch why not just bottle brush it? Why remove material that does not need to be removed? If this is a budget build as you say these are steps that aren't needed and money that does not need to be spent. Or am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why bore it if the cylinder is still in spec? If you can still see the factory hatch why not just bottle brush it? Why remove material that does not need to be removed? If this is a budget build as you say these are steps that aren't needed and money that does not need to be spent. Or am I missing something?
Its cheap to have it bored and honed. I agree with you but my son wants it done since we went through all the trouble to pull it.

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I think boring the engine if it doesn't need it just robs you of the opportunity to bore later if it needs it. There is literally no benefit if the cylinders are all within tolerance. If just one cylinder is out of spec, yeah I'd bore.

That doesn't mean someone is doing it wrong. It just means you're spending time and money to do unnecessary work.
 

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I think boring the engine if it doesn't need it just robs you of the opportunity to bore later if it needs it. There is literally no benefit if the cylinders are all within tolerance. If just one cylinder is out of spec, yeah I'd bore.



That doesn't mean someone is doing it wrong. It just means you're spending time and money to do unnecessary work.
I agree. I only checked the top 1/2" of the bore also. I would need to bore mic it deeper to see if it was in spec.

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I think boring the engine if it doesn't need it just robs you of the opportunity to bore later if it needs it. There is literally no benefit if the cylinders are all within tolerance. If just one cylinder is out of spec, yeah I'd bore.

That doesn't mean someone is doing it wrong. It just means you're spending time and money to do unnecessary work.
I didn't mean they were doing it wrong, just meant it would suck if you went through the trouble to rebuild an engine only to later have to tear it back down because you didn't take a certain step in the beginning. It's better to be safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't mean they were doing it wrong, just meant it would suck if you went through the trouble to rebuild an engine only to later have to tear it back down because you didn't take a certain step in the beginning. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Thats why we did it. I was going to reuse the roller lifters and pushrods but thought for only another 150.00 could save me from a possible disaster.

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Thats why we did it. I was going to reuse the roller lifters and pushrods but thought for only another 150.00 could save me from a possible disaster.

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I've disassembled a hundred set of stock lifters, cleaned the sludge out, and used them with performance cams without any issue.

If you have a heavy valve spring, run hardened pushrods. If you're not, drop the pushrods in a bucket of diesel/kerosene/parts cleaner so it cleans the oiling passage out, and you'll be just fine.
 

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You said budget build then mentioned bore and hone. Are you forgetting if you bore and hone it you need new pistons? Then you will have to have the rotating assembly balanced.
IMO opinion, if the bores are good and in spec, just dingle ball hone them and use the current pistons, rods and crank. I guess "budget" build means different things to different people...
Keep us posted on your build.
 

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You said budget build then mentioned bore and hone. Are you forgetting if you bore and hone it you need new pistons? Then you will have to have the rotating assembly balanced.

IMO opinion, if the bores are good and in spec, just dingle ball hone them and use the current pistons, rods and crank. I guess "budget" build means different things to different people...

Keep us posted on your build.
The shop thats doing the machine work said it wont need balancing since im using stock replacement pistons.

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Thats why we did it. I was going to reuse the roller lifters and pushrods but thought for only another 150.00 could save me from a possible disaster.

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Exactly! Like Isaid, if you are going to do it, do it right the first time. :)
 

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The shop thats doing the machine work said it wont need balancing since im using stock replacement pistons.
That would make me find a different shop. If you are doing all the other stuff because you are "all ready that far in" why not balance it?

Of all the places to consider saving money, balancing is not one of them. If you were re-ring..ing and re-bearing..ing (how do you write that?) on the stock pistons and stock rods on the stock crank, yeah I would agree. But you are not. You are adding new pistons that are almost certainly going to be a little heavier and that changes things. It changes the balance requirements.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That would make me find a different shop. If you are doing all the other stuff because you are "all ready that far in" why not balance it?

Of all the places to consider saving money, balancing is not one of them. If you were re-ring..ing and re-bearing..ing (how do you write that?) on the stock pistons and stock rods on the stock crank, yeah I would agree. But you are not. You are adding new pistons that are almost certainly going to be a little heavier and that changes things. It changes the balance requirements.
If I weigh the new vs. old pistons, how much difference would be allowed before balancing is needed.
 

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If I weigh the new vs. old pistons, how much difference would be allowed before balancing is needed.
There are others better qualified to answer this question definitively. But I suspect the answer is "not much". I know that 1/2 of an ounce (about 14 grams) can have noticeable effects on balancing a wheel/tire. At 60 mph a 28" tire rotates about 12 times a minute or 12 rpm. Be off 14 grams and you can feel that for sure. Spin that tire to 5000 rpm and think about how much you could feel that imbalance now. If your new piston is 4 grams heavier, you added 32 grams to the rotating assembly. But you also added that weight at the furthest point possible from the center of rotation. Which amplifies the effect.

A little bit of weight at engine rpm can have a big impact. Maybe Woody will come back and offer some first hand thoughts about balancing.
 
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