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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a rack control arm tie-rod combo to really stiffen up the input on a sn95?

I have the solid rack mounts, coilovers, and good rubber, but I have a "click" and dead space in my wheel.

Im considering terminator rack, solid shaft, and moog ends. Im not dropped much from factory (probably .75- 1") so the bumpsteer is not anything crazy, or causing any excessive wear.


I have been running my setup

I only get about +2 on caster
-1.5 camber
.05/side for toe

This had been really great no treadwear, no tramlining, and no understeer. Since doing my engine swap, I need to replace a tie rod, and everything is out of whack now, so before I go and fix anything I thought I would ask what might be my best options. Im not racing the car as of now, its merely a street queen, but I hate the dead steering response.
 

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If your car only has 2 degrees of caster, something is really wrong. The c/c plates must be assembled incorrectly. The car should have 4.5 degrees or so, minimum.

I would check the bearing assembly in the firewall. If this goes bad, the steering will have play. Then check the rubber coupler near the steering rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If your car only has 2 degrees of caster, something is really wrong. The c/c plates must be assembled incorrectly. The car should have 4.5 degrees or so, minimum.

I would check the bearing assembly in the firewall. If this goes bad, the steering will have play. Then check the rubber coupler near the steering rack.
I shouldve explained, the CC plates on my coilovers dont have an additional adjustment for caster like the MM ones, I just have them buried towards the firewall as far as I possibly can, that number is roughly a guess. I gained probably 1-2 degrees off from stock base.

I've been toying with getting the MM plates, and its not a huge chore to swap them in, when I installed my CO's I were at the end of the money i wanted to put in them.

You could be right about the bearings in the firewall, they looked a little gnarly when i pulled the shaft out.

I know the pass tie rod has some play, which is odd seeing how its only a year old, but when I took it out of the knuckle, it was flopping around and a bitch to thread back up.
 

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I had a 98 cobra and with my setup it definitely felt like "go kart" steering - MM solid steering shaft, MM aluminum rack bushings, forward offset control arms, and a Momo race wheel. I also had MM k-member, CC plates, and coilovers, though not sure if these components actually affected the way the steering felt.
 

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I had issues with the collapsible part of the factory steering shaft on my old Ranger. There was a piece of spring steel that was supposed to keep the slop out of the inner and outer tubes of the steering shaft. The spring steel fatigued and broke into several pieces and the steering got "old farm truck" sloppy. I swapped out a perfectly fine steering box before I realized the real problem.
 
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