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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Getting a bit more into handling, need help!

Hey all

So I've done the PI swap on my mustang, and am at a bang-for-buck wall in the power department (bolt ons dont do much, power adder is just too much) so I want to work on my suspension.

There's a sports car club at our college that holds autocrosses every month that I will likely be attending more and more often. However, the guy who sets up the track drives a miata, and as a result the courses can get kind of technical. My car has kumho ecsta spt tires (by far the weakest link), eibach pro kit springs, tokico hp's, c/c plates and a strut tower brace. Needless to say, it plows like a john deer through tight corners.

So my question to all of you is, what is the best way to eliminate (or reduce) this craptastic understeer? Also, there's an unsettling amount of on-center slop in the steering wheel, and it darts about on the freeway when there are ruts in the road from bigrigs and such.

What would you guys recommend? This is my tentative list so far
* Eibach front/rear swaybars
* Steeda x2 balljoints
* Steeda bumpsteer kit
* Prothane rack bushings
* Custom subframe connectors

Thanks in advance
-Tyler
 

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MM full length sub frame connectors
MM Lower Rear Control Arms

Those two will make a huge difference. Most of the stuff you listed are little things for fine tuning.

Also, if you haven't touch the brakes at least do a 99+ PBR swap with some new pads. If you can run 17'' tires yearly, then go for a set of Mach1, Bullit, or Cobra Calipers in the front.
 

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Plowing means you need to worry about front end grip.

Tighten up the rear or loosen up the front by adjusting swaybar stiffnesses. At events, push those CC plates as far in as they will go to give you more negative camber.

If you don't already, wider wheels and tires will help give you more grip at both ends.

Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yeah subframes are a major thing on my list, there's a guy that does them for cheaper (bends the tubing himself and all that) that the local club recommends. Haven't heard anyone recommend LCA's though- will those help a bit with the infamous live axle stutter-step around bumpy corners?

Thanks for the help guys. I know the things I list wont make a huge difference... The main reason for the balljoints, bumpsteer, bushings, is to get rid of the way the car steers itself through ruts in the pavement (and when hitting puddles in the rain...). More of a safety thing than a performance thing. It's a miracle I didn't put the car in the wall driving 2 hours from charlotte to Clemson (1am POURING rain)
 

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Likely more negative camber is needed and quite probably too banzai with corner entry speed and/or not using the brake to get weight on the the front tires for better bite.

Technique is important too.
 

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Haven't heard anyone recommend LCA's though- will those help a bit with the infamous live axle stutter-step around bumpy corners?
Not really if you are talking about the tail wagging that's a lateral location issue.

You are trying to increase front grip.
so unless you are looking to drop some serious coin, you can do it in small increments. A front sway would help keep camber in check which will improve your front grip which will help improve front grip BUT a larger diameter front sway will also cause some understeer so I'm sure there is a happy medium in there somewhere although I'm not sure where.

Depends on what you budget is too. Shocks and springs can go a long way but they can cost a good bit too.
 

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The main reason for the balljoints, bumpsteer, bushings, is to get rid of the way the car steers itself through ruts in the pavement (and when hitting puddles in the rain...). More of a safety thing than a performance thing. It's a miracle I didn't put the car in the wall driving 2 hours from charlotte to Clemson (1am POURING rain)
Had an alignment lately? Know the specs?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had it aligned when I installed the c/c plates but I dont know the specs. I know my technique could be better, but I had the club hotshoe hop in and he noticed it plowing as well.

I don't have swaybars yet - was looking for some opinions on which ones to get. I was looking at the eibachs. I don't have any problems launching it (not enough power, heh) so I dont know why LCA's would be good. Swaybars are supposed to help with roll as well though, which my car has quite alot of.
Pics of roll:
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii263/humjaba/Autocross/
My awful driving (I need new seats, BAD)
http://vimeo.com/4124168
 

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Hey all

So I've done the PI swap on my mustang, and am at a bang-for-buck wall in the power department (bolt ons dont do much, power adder is just too much) so I want to work on my suspension.

There's a sports car club at our college that holds autocrosses every month that I will likely be attending more and more often. However, the guy who sets up the track drives a miata, and as a result the courses can get kind of technical. My car has kumho ecsta spt tires (by far the weakest link), eibach pro kit springs, tokico hp's, c/c plates and a strut tower brace. Needless to say, it plows like a john deer through tight corners.

So my question to all of you is, what is the best way to eliminate (or reduce) this craptastic understeer? Also, there's an unsettling amount of on-center slop in the steering wheel, and it darts about on the freeway when there are ruts in the road from bigrigs and such.

What would you guys recommend? This is my tentative list so far
* Eibach front/rear swaybars
* Steeda x2 balljoints
* Steeda bumpsteer kit
* Prothane rack bushings
* Custom subframe connectors

Thanks in advance
-Tyler
You need to start by dumping those crappy Tokico Blues. If you find the thread by Ciotti he just switched from those to Koni Sports and gets into detail about just how different the car is, including being less sloppy (which is a lack of rebound control, and the tramlining can also be weak shock damping).

As far as understeer... a good alignment, and better roll control to keep that screwed up camber curve under better control help a ton..... so of that list the Eibach bars would be top of it--after the shocks.

SFC's never a bad idea...

I have to strongly recommend the dampers and bars first and foremost. Shake them down, and see where you stand from there.
 

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The car pictured had a torque arm and panhard bar rear suspension but it still had 700-850lb/in front springs (FRPP Cobra 'R') and H&R Torque Arm springs in the back. The front bar was 1-1/8" and the rear was 7/8". The tires were fairly fresh 245/45/17 Kumho 712s. I ran with as much negative camber as the c/c plates give me plus SN95 front arms w/X2 ball joints and the car still exhibited understeer.

I made several changes (upped the front spring rate for one) and it's much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hmm.. Well keep the advice coming guys :) I appreciate it. Meanwhile, I have some decisions to make about where I want to go with my car..

I have a '95 Miata at home as well... I could spend a lot of money making it as fast as the mustang, or the same amount of money making the mustang handle as well as the miata. Decisions decisions...
 

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Just be careful how much spring you run because on our cars you need as much as you can get in order to keep the camber in check BUT the higher you go, the less pleasant it will be on the street. You will have to compromise one way or the other. Pleasant on the street, lots of roll on the "track" great on the track harsh on the street.
 

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Hmm.. Well keep the advice coming guys :) I appreciate it. Meanwhile, I have some decisions to make about where I want to go with my car..

I have a '95 Miata at home as well... I could spend a lot of money making it as fast as the mustang, or the same amount of money making the mustang handle as well as the miata. Decisions decisions...
Well if you already have a Miata at home then you've already tackled the difficult part. Actually obtaining one and getting over the "softer side" of the car is probably the most difficult part of Miata ownership. You should probably just stick to having that as your handling car and try to make the Mustang faster in a straight line and street cruiser, but that is just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah.. So the list looks like this:
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit 135 http://forums.corral.net/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=4676185
Steeda X2 Balljoints 105 http://forums.corral.net/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=4676185
Steeda Full-length Subframes 149 http://forums.corral.net/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=4676185
Eibach Swaybars 300 http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-swaybar-94-04-mustang.html
Prothane Rack Bushings 11.99 http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=PT-6703BL 1&comp=LRS
Custom subframe connectors 125

Does this look like it will at least minimize the tramlining (thanks for giving that a name for me, didnt really know what it was called)?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, i'd like the swaybars to help out with the rolling problem - stiffer springs arent the answer because I like my ride the way it is. I want subframes because my car is creak/rattle free and I'd like it to stay that way. The rest of the #### is to try and fix tramlining - what would you suggest? It's certainly not a driver problem. I'm not talking a little bit, or where it jerks the wheel out of my hand - the wheel stays still and the car goes back and forth. Its as if the wheels arent even connected to the steering wheel. This is a safety issue that needs to be addressed.

I suppose I should have put the issue more on this than the plowing in my initial post... I guess thats kind of a mustang characteristic that wont go away without something extreme like SLA's
 
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