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Discussion Starter #1
OK, this has been going on since i bought this car about a year ago. Fuse #8, the 15 amp one that has the courtesy lights, radio/clock, and remote/power mirror on its circuit. I had previously thought the ignition switch was the culprit, and replaced it because i also had occasional weird starts.

Here's what happened today. I put in a new 15 amp into Fuse 8 slot, and smoke comes out of the center console, right by the emergency brake, very close to the remote mirror switch. I'm believing the issue is the switch is shorting to ground. Question for you all - the factory service manual says to use a putty knife and pry out the power mirror switch. I'm afraid of how old it is, it might disintegrate. anyone else have experience pulling this thing out??

Thanks-

RT
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, was able to use the putty knife to pry out the switch, but there's precious little wire to work with. I used the Flathead screwdriver to remove.

Here's what i found out:

1. I removed the switch and no more issues with the fuse #8 - and no weird crackle at the fuse box like before, where it would immediately blow the 15amp fuse.
2. Another big find - it looks like from factory assembly, they forgot to fasten a wire bundle using an attachment push thru, and the six/seven wire bundle feeding the power mirror motor was (gasp) stuck under the emergency brake stop! Even after removing the switch, when working the e-brake lever back and forth, could see some arcing!
3. the green wire and one of the yellow wires were fried/melted and discontinuous, presumably from being stuck under the e-brake stop (steel) for a long time!

So, I may need to remove the top half of part of the console and splice in replacement wire for the green and yellow wires. And will also check continuity of other five wires (two black, other yellow, red, etc.)

The switch actually look ok, just a little gunk from grime and grit on the top parts. A cleaning will help.
 

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you found the short

continuity test is useless, you use a test light, you need current, much more that a ohm meter can produce
 
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