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yup

2 fridays ago dynod 600 bucks
last friday redynod with 30lb injectors 360
saturday (a day later) break engine, 3 hours from home
what Did it dyno on Saturday with 30 lbs injectors?
 

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This is how it failed:


1. stock gas tank, going around the spoon at NJMP Lightning my AFR's went lean, and my oil pressure dropped to 20psi (i believe i was low on oil)
2.stock rockers with 150,xxx miles on them (i dont know wtf i was thinking)
3. with low oil pressure and lean AFR's the valves must have got really hot and fatigued.

#7 valve broke, which caused the rocker to break, and piston getting smashed, and head getting smashed.
So you are saying that fuel went away from the pump pickup because the baffling the stock tank was insufficient for a long deep sweeping turn, which caused fuel starvation? What fuel pump are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
what Did it dyno on Saturday with 30 lbs injectors?
we found out that the #1 fuel injector wasnt working, so it took us a while to fix than then it was too late to re-dyno because of town laws. no idea what she made, the first time on 19s she made 270 at 4900 but we had to cut because injectors hit 100% duty cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So you are saying that fuel went away from the pump pickup because the baffling the stock tank was insufficient for a long deep sweeping turn, which caused fuel starvation? What fuel pump are you running?
Yes fuel starvation, around a long right hander (spoon) intank walkbro 255 pump,
 

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yup



2 fridays ago dynod 600 bucks

last friday redynod with 30lb injectors 360

saturday (a day later) break engine, 3 hours from home


FWIW that right there is half the cost of a pro-m efi and ya never pay a tuner again. Or find a tuner you trust, set up an appointment, take time out of your day, hope it’s a good tune, etc.

And from what I’ve been told a 255 is overkill for stock lines under anything but full load. The tiny ¼” return can’t support the volume of a 255 when most of the fuel is being sent back unused. Also if the return line isn’t extended well below the fuel level you get aeration.

Looking forward to seeing ya get it back together man
 

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FWIW that right there is half the cost of a pro-m efi and ya never pay a tuner again. Or find a tuner you trust, set up an appointment, take time out of your day, hope it’s a good tune, etc.

And from what I’ve been told a 255 is overkill for stock lines under anything but full load. The tiny ¼” return can’t support the volume of a 255 when most of the fuel is being sent back unused. Also if the return line isn’t extended well below the fuel level you get aeration.

Looking forward to seeing ya get it back together man
While the first part is true, realistically it’s easier for a lot of people to spend the money on a tune over the pro m system.

Lots of people run 255 pumps on stock lines and rails with no drivability problems, me being one of them. No problems with idle, cruising, or anything.
 

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FWIW that right there is half the cost of a pro-m efi and ya never pay a tuner again. Or find a tuner you trust, set up an appointment, take time out of your day, hope it’s a good tune, etc.

And from what I’ve been told a 255 is overkill for stock lines under anything but full load. The tiny ¼” return can’t support the volume of a 255 when most of the fuel is being sent back unused. Also if the return line isn’t extended well below the fuel level you get aeration.

Looking forward to seeing ya get it back together man
I looked up the Pro-M efi and it looks to cost about $1999.95. That's pretty expensive, but I also paid $1200 just to get my car dyno tuned. Taking the car to a dyno is really a pain, especially when I have to put the car on a trailer, or flatbed, and haul it an hour away. Taking the car to the dyno is one of the things that makes me not want to upgrade anything on my engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
FWIW that right there is half the cost of a pro-m efi and ya never pay a tuner again. Or find a tuner you trust, set up an appointment, take time out of your day, hope it’s a good tune, etc.

And from what I’ve been told a 255 is overkill for stock lines under anything but full load. The tiny ¼” return can’t support the volume of a 255 when most of the fuel is being sent back unused. Also if the return line isn’t extended well below the fuel level you get aeration.

Looking forward to seeing ya get it back together man

One of my other track fox friends mentioned with a 255 pump it heats up the fuel and at our power levels we dont need it, im dropping the tank, what pump should i go to? 190lph?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
@;
While the first part is true, realistically it’s easier for a lot of people to spend the money on a tune over the pro m system.

Lots of people run 255 pumps on stock lines and rails with no drivability problems, me being one of them. No problems with idle, cruising, or anything.
Ive ran a 255lph pump since 2009 zero issues,
 

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I looked up the Pro-M efi and it looks to cost about $1999.95. That's pretty expensive, but I also paid $1200 just to get my car dyno tuned. Taking the car to a dyno is really a pain, especially when I have to put the car on a trailer, or flatbed, and haul it an hour away. Taking the car to the dyno is one of the things that makes me not want to upgrade anything on my engine.
Who in the hell charged you $1200 for a dyno tune?

One of my other track fox friends mentioned with a 255 pump it heats up the fuel and at our power levels we dont need it, im dropping the tank, what pump should i go to? 190lph?
Just get another 255. If you're really all that concerned, just put in a hangar with a bigger return feed, then run new lines. I've ran a 255 in outside temps which approach 100* and never had any sort of problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Who in the hell charged you $1200 for a dyno tune?



Just get another 255. If you're really all that concerned, just put in a hangar with a bigger return feed, then run new lines. I've ran a 255 in outside temps which approach 100* and never had any sort of problem.
I just put in a brand new 255 a couple of months ago, but im going to drop the tank and probably step down to a 190.
 

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I looked up the Pro-M efi and it looks to cost about $1999.95. That's pretty expensive, but I also paid $1200 just to get my car dyno tuned. Taking the car to a dyno is really a pain, especially when I have to put the car on a trailer, or flatbed, and haul it an hour away. Taking the car to the dyno is one of the things that makes me not want to upgrade anything on my engine.


$800 more for an all new harness and never worrying about finding a tuner again ;)
 

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you can also get a moates quarterhorse for $250 and never have to worry about a dyno or a tuner ever again as well. No need in spending all that un-needed money on an aftermarket ecu when the stocker can do the job.

Getting Started / EFIDynoTuning
 

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Who in the hell charged you $1200 for a dyno tune?
I ran my car twice on the dyno. $600 both times, because I went on different days. The second time was not really needed because I thought something was wrong with my car's tune when it turned out to be something else entirely which was fuel related.
 

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Who in the hell charged you $1200 for a dyno tune?
I ran my car twice on the dyno. $600 both times, because I went on different days. The second time was not really needed because I thought something was wrong with my car's tune when it turned out to be something else entirely which was fuel related.
Damn that’s a lot. Some tuners will let you get on a dyno for half price if they wrote your base tune initially. Charging full price a second time it pretty ####ed, especially since I’m guessing he really didn’t do anything.
 

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@ thadude,
Im glad you brought the aeration issue up because it gives me a reason to ask questions about that topic,which a member on this site & myself discussed on a neighboring site.Im posting a video at the bottom which illustrates the aeration issue.
The video shows a stock tank and stock hanger assembly,but with larger AN hoses. The hoses are only 1-2 ft long in the video,so we were trying to contemplate if aeration was as drastic as it showed due to the short length of the hose compared to the length of the oem hose,that runs the length of the car, plus the larger diameter of the AN hose,in regards to the return hose.Flow would increase and pressure would decrease,when stepping up to the larger AN hose,correct,but once the return fuel meets the oem return tube,on the hanger assembly,pressure would go up again,correct,since the hose went from the larger diameter AN to the smaller diameter oem hanger tube?? So,do you think the shorter length and larger diameter hose in the video would cause more aeration vs the longer length and smaller diameter of the oem hose ?? Do you know the purpose of the orange reed valve on the end of the return tube??


 

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I don't think line length is going to lower the pressure so much that it negates aeration and a piece of submersible hose is cheap enough that I'd do it anyway. No idea what the reed valves purpose is but would love to know.
 
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