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Personally I change the fuel filter every 12,000 miles or 1 year, whichever elapses first.
The subject for this article will be my 1993 Mustang LX with the 2.3L engine but with some slightly different steps that will be outlined, this article can be applied to all fuel injected Mustangs between 1983 and 2004 because the fuel filter part number is the same for all models in those years.

Tools needed:

Jack and jackstands (or drive on ramps)
rags
philips screwdriver (small tip if possible)
flat tip screwdriver
bucket
1/4" drive 8mm socket
1/4" drive 10mm socket
1/4" drive extensions
1/4" drive ratchet

Step 1 - Preparation for removal of the fuel filter

The first step will be to relieve the fuel pressure. This can be done in one of two ways.
First using a cloth over the schrader valve and depressing the pin in the valve. Most Mustang engine have the schrader valve located near the passenger side front corner of the upper intake. Here are pictures of the locations of the schrader valve in different Mustang engines:

1991-93 Mustang LX with 2.3L engine. Located at the drivers side of the valve cover near the firewall, between the valve cover and PCV valve:



1994-98 Mustang LX with 3.8L engine, passenger front corner of the upper intake:



1994-1995 Mustang Cobra or GT with the 5.0L engine, passenger front corner of the upper intake. My personal 1995 Cobra has an electrical sending unit in plate of the schrader valve for an electronic fuel pressure gauge.



1996-1998 Mustang Cobra with the 4.6L DOHC engine, passenger front corner of the upper intake:



The second option is to disconnect the inertia switch located behind the drivers taillight and attempt to restart the car. Chances are the engine will not even start but will crank continuously. Picture of the location of the inertia switch on all Mustangs:



With the fuel pressure now relieved you can raise the rearend of the car and rest it on ramps or jackstands. This allows access to the fuel filter.



View of the fuel filter and its screw clamp holding it to the bracket:



Remove the 8mm screw down clamp from the fuel filter and pull it from the bracket.

Remove two 8mm screws securing the fuel filter bracket to the chassis, remove the bracket
Note: some cars may use 10mm bolts but I think most are actually 8mm:



Using a flat-tip screwdriver, spread the legs of each of the duckbill clips securing the fuel lines to the filter. Pull the clips straight up and out of the fuel clips. The white clip is the duckbill clip installed into the black fuel line connection in the following photo.



Place a bucket directly beneath the fuel filter. This is to catch the fuel that is inside the filter when you detach the fuel lines.

Pull the passenger side fuel line straight off the filter first and tilt the filter so that the fuel drains into the bucket.

Detach the drivers side fuel line by pulling the line straight off the filter. Tilt the filter until the rest of the fuel drains into the bucket. Discard the old fuel filter.

This photo shows about how much fuel fill drain into a bucket. Disregard the color of the fuel; there was some trans fluid drainage into this bucket prior to using it to catch fuel lol......



Fuel filter removed:



The new fuel filter will come with new duckbill clips. Remove them from the ends of the fuel filter and set them to the side.

Note that the fuel filter will have an arrow or will be otherwise marked "front" to indicate the direction the new filter is to be installed. The fuel line with the 90 degree elbow connection is on the passenger side and goes into the "input" of the fuel filter:



Reinstall the fuel line ends onto the fuel filter. They will snap into place as they are reconnected.

Install the new duckbill clips into the black fuel line connectors. The pointy end points away from the edge of the connector. Be sure that the clips fully seat so that they snap into place.

Install the fuel filter bracket and bolt in the two 8mm screws that hold the bracket to the chassis.

Reinstall the steel screw in band clamp. The end of the clamp goes into the back slot of the filter bracket, curves over and around to the front of the fuel filter and through the front slot of the bracket. Position the 8mm bolt so that the clamp end can be easily tightened into itself.

Using the jack and placing it beneath the pumpkin of the rearend, raise the car enough to remove the drive on ramps or the jackstands.

Lower the car to the ground.

Prime the fuel system by turning the ignition switch to "on", hold it for a few seconds and then start the car.

You are now finished changing the fuel filter.

If you have any questiosn, please PM Cobraman1024 on ModdedMustang or Tinkerbell_too on here and ModdedMustang.
 
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