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Discussion Starter #1
The car is primarily a toy car. I will drive it to work in the summer and do enjoy taking 200-300 mile road trips with it.

Around 70% street cruising 20% aggressive canyon driving (the road trips. ALOT of twisty roads around here.) and 10% open track or auto-x.

The suspension is this...

Front: MM coil overs with 275lb 12" springs. 03 Cobra Struts.
Stock control arms, Prothane swaybar end links, prothane front arm bushings, stock sway bar, MM CC plates.

What should I put the alignment at? Looking at MM's directions should I go between their race/street recommend? or is their street aggressive enough? The car has about 1.75* camber and 1/16th toe in. Caster unknown. this is before i did the coil overs and that seemed to be a really happy medium and didn't chew tires up at all. Hell they were the most even I've ever seen from a fox. I replaced them because of age not wear! :eek:

Now after driving it with the coil overs the steering wheel is not in the right spot so I'll need to take her in again.

Should I do the same specs as before? More or less aggressive? Any feedback would be great. Also is it worth it to get the tools and learn to do it yourself or is it better to just let a pro set it up with your specs.
 

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4-5 degrees caster, unless you have a bumpsteer kit, in which case you can dial in more caster but you'll probably have to adjust out the resulting bumpsteer.

1.25 or 1.5 degrees neg camber, and make a record of how far the strut tops are from the fenders. That way when you go to an autox you can dump the camber all the way in, then after the event you put it back exactly where it was before.

1/16th inch to zero toe out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I run open track is it okay to really crank that camber to 2.5-3*?

Stupid question. Whats the dif between toe out and in. Doesn't in keep the car straighter when driving down the road? I know what it means specs wise, but not effects.
 

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When I run open track is it okay to really crank that camber to 2.5-3*?
Not just OK, it's necessary. Well, if you want the car to turn, that is, especially with those soft springs. You have to have enough negative camber in it so the outside tire stays a little negative when body roll is taken into account.



Stupid question. Whats the dif between toe out and in. Doesn't in keep the car straighter when driving down the road? I know what it means specs wise, but not effects.
Out is when the front edges are farther apart than the rear. Too much of out or in make the car unstable going down the road, and having it toe'd in can make it really nervous just off-center. With upwards of 1.5 degrees camber I like to have it toe'd to 0 or slightly out, because a side effect of the camber is the tires want to turn toward each other (toe in) when they're rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was recommended to run 275lb's from MM with the torque arm I'll be adding. They seem much firmer than the 500lb saleen springs that used to be in there. Haven't had any good wheel time with them in yet though, only about 50 miles since I noticed she needs another alignment.

To help minimize the body roll, should I consider doing sway bars?

Thanks MFE.
 

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I'd wait to change sway bars until after you have done the TA and consulted again with MM. Depending on your rear spring rates, you may need a stiffer rear sway or none at all. That will affect which front bar you should use.
 

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Question regarding toe out. Do you notice more tramlining (sp?) with toe out? On my off road buggy If it is toed out it will climb any ruts or berms uncontrollably so I am curious how it effects these cars.
 
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