I tried using a "thread chaser" instead of a tap at first. It would not do anything. I was afraid it would break off in the block. I ended up running a regular 1/2-13 tap down the hole just to get the stud to thread in all the way. And as you predicted, the stud now went in, but was "loose". So I ended up having an heli-coil installed.WOW, that's AWFUL!
For people reading this, as far as cleaning threads: when "cleaning" threads use a Thread Forming Tap, not a Thread Cutting Tap. If a cutting tap is used it might cut too much material out creating a loose fit. i don't know what type you used but either way it sounds like that threaded hole had huge issues to begin with. I'm just glad it was caught before it was run.
Considering that the short block is already assembled, it is a non starter to do this. I will keep it in mind next time. Thanks for suggesting it.Oh wow. I have seen it done on a few sbf. That is why I am asking. Guess u tap the first two holes in the lifter valley pan and leave the last hole empty. Install stand pipe done.
No. I am just going to run it. I have over $6K in this refresh. Part of the problem I am dealing with, is that where I live, I really don't have a selection of competent machine shops in my local area. I would have to drive 100 or so miles to find the next "good" machine shop. I moved to Maine 2 years ago and I don't know if any one place is better than another. I asked the guys at the local race track that have fast cars (low 5's to high 4's in the 1/8) where they had their engines built and everyone said, "New Jersey," "North Carolina," "Florida" ect. ect. I was not to keen on sending the engine several hundred miles away, let alone all the way back to Washington State to the original builder. I thought that if I stayed local, I would at least be able to have a face to face with the builder. The machine shop that did this work is only 3 miles from my house, so that was a bonus at the time, or so I thought.Oh wow that sucks. Are u going to tear it down farther?
It is possible, but I don't know if it will last long enough to get there. This whole fiasco has put me behind schedule a few weeks. Now add to that, Summit Racing, whom I have been buying parts from for over 20 years, and whom I have had zero issues with, sent my last order to an address that I have not lived at in over 7 years, and throw in that address is in Washington State, over 3,200 miles away. I called them up and they are taking care of it...by sending a call tag to that address to pick the parts up and redirect the shipment to me here in Maine. Unfortunately, The call tag is not set to show up out there until today or Monday, which means it will be the end of next week before I see the parts, if I am lucky. So it looks like first or second week in May before the engine is running. Maybe by then the local track will be open.Sorry to see that head stud issue. At least helicoils are stronger than cast iron threads, assuming plenty of material to install the helicoil. I had a similar build issue when my 365 was a 363 - the guy who built it was a fascinating combination of filth pig and moron. The further I dug into it, the more problems I found - missing freeze/galley plugs, incorrect thrust clearance, etc. And it was rather dirty - it's been a while, I don't remember exactly which one, but one of the passages in the back was filled with crap.
I'm interested to see your results. Do you think a 4.99 is possible?