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Oh wow. I have seen it done on a few sbf. That is why I am asking. Guess u tap the first two holes in the lifter valley pan and leave the last hole empty. Install stand pipe done.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
WOW, that's AWFUL!

For people reading this, as far as cleaning threads: when "cleaning" threads use a Thread Forming Tap, not a Thread Cutting Tap. If a cutting tap is used it might cut too much material out creating a loose fit. i don't know what type you used but either way it sounds like that threaded hole had huge issues to begin with. I'm just glad it was caught before it was run.

ks
I tried using a "thread chaser" instead of a tap at first. It would not do anything. I was afraid it would break off in the block. I ended up running a regular 1/2-13 tap down the hole just to get the stud to thread in all the way. And as you predicted, the stud now went in, but was "loose". So I ended up having an heli-coil installed.

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Now I feel comfortable with re-installing the short block and proceeding with the assembly.

I was without power from Friday 3 am to Mon. 10 pm, so there was no progress during that time, thus the delay in a response.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Oh wow. I have seen it done on a few sbf. That is why I am asking. Guess u tap the first two holes in the lifter valley pan and leave the last hole empty. Install stand pipe done.
Considering that the short block is already assembled, it is a non starter to do this. I will keep it in mind next time. Thanks for suggesting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Dues to the lack of attention to detail on this build, I decided to remove the oil pan to inspect and see if what I was billed for was actually done. What prompted this was that I used a borescope to look and the bottom end. I was charged $300+ for Oliver rod bolts. The rods are Oliver rods, the rods had 4 seasons on them, I have no problem with new rod bolts. But all I could see on the rod bolts was ARP. Mind you, the imprint is very small on the head of a rod bolt. But being a bit gun shy, I removed the oil pan. All of this was done before I returned the block to the machine shop for the heli-coil repair. Any who, I got the pan off and in fact the rod bolts had been replaced, but the rod bolts were indeed "Oliver" rod bolts. It just said "Oliver" by ARP. I went to Olivers web-site and indeed they advertise that they use ARP fasteners.
Since I had the oil pan off, I decided to wipe it down on the inside. I had previously installed the solid roller lifters and they had been soaking in oil, and after installing them in the block, I poured the rest of the oil down the lifter valley. I had to drain the oil pan before removing it, obviously. Anyway, I am wiping up the oil residue from inside the oil pan so it does not drip on the new oil pan gasket, and look what I saw on the paper towels I used to wipe down the inside of the oil pan...

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The oil I used is green. Obviously there is a lot of "dirt" that came off, out of the pan. Needless to say, I am not very happy with this build, and the lack of attention to detail. I don't believe this engine will last 4 years like the original build did.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Oh wow that sucks. Are u going to tear it down farther?
No. I am just going to run it. I have over $6K in this refresh. Part of the problem I am dealing with, is that where I live, I really don't have a selection of competent machine shops in my local area. I would have to drive 100 or so miles to find the next "good" machine shop. I moved to Maine 2 years ago and I don't know if any one place is better than another. I asked the guys at the local race track that have fast cars (low 5's to high 4's in the 1/8) where they had their engines built and everyone said, "New Jersey," "North Carolina," "Florida" ect. ect. I was not to keen on sending the engine several hundred miles away, let alone all the way back to Washington State to the original builder. I thought that if I stayed local, I would at least be able to have a face to face with the builder. The machine shop that did this work is only 3 miles from my house, so that was a bonus at the time, or so I thought.
Another reason I am just going to run the engine is that the local race track should be open in about 4 weeks and I would really like to have the car ready to go. I will do a few oil changes in short order after the engine fires just to get the engine "flushed" out. A lot of the machine work looks OK.
Maybe I am to OCD about some of this. But other little things about this build make me nervous. I handed the machine shop a printed out page of requests with the build and several items were ignored. I asked for new cylinder head dowels, nope. I asked for a new SFI Flexplate, nope. I asked for a new oil pump, nope. Things like that. The reason why they did not provide them is because "there is nothing wrong with them". It is not like I was holding out on paying either. I gave them $1,500 cash up front when I dropped the engine off, gave them another $1,600 cash 4 weeks later and paid off the rest when I picked up the engine. And I showed up to get the engine 4 days after they said it was done.
SMH...Now I know why everyone around here with high HP engines sends them somewhere else. Lesson learned.
 

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Do not think the tracks will be open in a few weeks.

The engine should be clean. I would take off the oil galley plugs in back of the engine look in them see if u see any dirt. If u can take off the front ones easier to see through it.

Pretty much u end checking everything they have done and hoping for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I live in rural Maine. The "local" track is out in the middle of nowhere. There is a good chance that I can go racing in 4-5 weeks. I think that when I am in the lane staging my car, windows up, that the starter is more than 6 feet from me, and certainly the guy in the next lane, with his windows up, is more than 6 feet from the starter. I know for a fact that in the pits, the cars are a good 20 feet apart from each other. I am also pretty sure that race fuel and race fuel fumes are deadly to the virus. NY City quarantine rules should not apply to rural areas. There are over 7 times as many people in NY City than there are in the entire state of Maine. To try and impose those standards here would be the ultimate in naivety and foolishness.
 

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I wouldn't worry too much about that "dirt" on the paper towels. You can wash used parts 100 times and still be able to get staining on a white paper towel. As long as there are no hunks of junk I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Sorry to see that head stud issue. At least helicoils are stronger than cast iron threads, assuming plenty of material to install the helicoil. I had a similar build issue when my 365 was a 363 - the guy who built it was a fascinating combination of filth pig and moron. The further I dug into it, the more problems I found - missing freeze/galley plugs, incorrect thrust clearance, etc. And it was rather dirty - it's been a while, I don't remember exactly which one, but one of the passages in the back was filled with crap.

I'm interested to see your results. Do you think a 4.99 is possible?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Sorry to see that head stud issue. At least helicoils are stronger than cast iron threads, assuming plenty of material to install the helicoil. I had a similar build issue when my 365 was a 363 - the guy who built it was a fascinating combination of filth pig and moron. The further I dug into it, the more problems I found - missing freeze/galley plugs, incorrect thrust clearance, etc. And it was rather dirty - it's been a while, I don't remember exactly which one, but one of the passages in the back was filled with crap.

I'm interested to see your results. Do you think a 4.99 is possible?
It is possible, but I don't know if it will last long enough to get there. This whole fiasco has put me behind schedule a few weeks. Now add to that, Summit Racing, whom I have been buying parts from for over 20 years, and whom I have had zero issues with, sent my last order to an address that I have not lived at in over 7 years, and throw in that address is in Washington State, over 3,200 miles away. I called them up and they are taking care of it...by sending a call tag to that address to pick the parts up and redirect the shipment to me here in Maine. Unfortunately, The call tag is not set to show up out there until today or Monday, which means it will be the end of next week before I see the parts, if I am lucky. So it looks like first or second week in May before the engine is running. Maybe by then the local track will be open.
 

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That sucks. If it makes you feel any better, I'm planning on firing up my car this weekend or Monday. After it's been sitting for TWO YEARS. The only real change? Headers and exhaust. You know how it goes - used headers needed some fixing; new k member because they don't work with a stock k member; modify motor mounts, re-align the front because of the new K member, fab exhaust and even made a dipstick to clear the headers... then there's life responsibilities and now this corona mess...

Can you take any weight out of the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes, I have been working on that. I removed the stock rear hatch and glass and replaced it with a fiberglass hatch and plexiglass. Guess how much all that trouble saved me in weight.....32 lbs. That's it.
I removed the 200 amp alternator and the Optima Red top battery, and all of the associated battery cable wiring that goes from the trunk up to the engine compartment. Replaced it all with an idler pulley, so the belt routing stays the same, replaced the Optima battery with a 16 volt Go Lithium battery that weighs only 8 lbs. That was a 50 lb or so weight savings.
I removed the huge double pass aluminum radiator and installed a smaller plastic end tank double pass radiator that supposed to be for some V-6 VW. That saved about 10 lbs when you add in the weight of the extra water the larger radiator held.
Then a bunch of other little things that add up to 1 lb here, 1.5 lbs there.
Race weight is down from 3,150 with me in the car to just over 3,000 lbs.
I did step up from a 26X8.5 Hoosier slick to a 275/60/15 drag radial DR is 28" tall compared the 26" slick. So I changed the rear gear from a 4.10:1 to a 4.30:1
I have also added a Star Machine Vacuum pump to the engine and got rid of the 2 electric smog pumps I was using. Now it has a true 10" of vacuum in the crankcase at WOT.
So, there is a lot of stuff changed that should allow the car to take a step up in performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Dropped off the engine at another machine shop last night. This guy specializes in SBF so I hope everything comes out excellent this time. Best case, he inspects everything and it is OK. Worse case...more money. Lol. This guy does some truck pull engines. He had a 363 SBF that made 900+ HP N/A with a single Dominator carb. Engine makes peak power at 9,200 rpm. That was pretty cool. It has the Edelbrock/Glidden cyl. heads. I wish I could use those bad boys.
 
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