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This is the transmission crossmember from a 4 Cylinder Foxbody Mustang, it has bolt on brackets. This makes adjusting or re-positioning the transmission crossmember very simple. It measures about 29.5" from end to end including the brackets and may be used on other vehicles.

Mounting it is very easy. Simply drill a hole in the "frame/subframe" and bolt it in. These brackets can be later welded in for additional strength.

This is a very cheap alternative to AJE crossmember and the AJE does not fit in early cars because of the smaller mounts/bushings.

 

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How does it work as far as exhaust clearance?
 

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Not sure! I have not checked yet but I don't plan on running an exhaust as of yet. Maybe a downpipe out the driver or passenger side fender.

Regardless there should be enough clearance to navigate a 3" or 3.5" pipe to the back of the car.
 

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the issue with the 4 cylinder one is that it has a tendency to twist...even if welded in...
its just not built to handle v8 torque.
even my stock 4cylinder one was bent when I pulled out the motor and trans to start my swap

its a good temporary one...but you need to go with the v8 mustang one and something more substancial to handle the v8 torque(that means something stronger than the stock double hump crossmember as well)

I always suggest making something yourself or buying a tubular one made to handle some power

I have a TCI 6x, which uses a 4l80 case...so I had to fab up something to fit my car... its quite a bit longer than any of the other transmissions...and it would be a challenge to use any of the stock brackets even if I tried to move them back...

my simple solution is to weld in some thru the floor subframe connectors, and weld on a 1/4" steel plate to each subframe with a small gusset on each one to connect it better to the frame(more than one surface welded)
and I fabbed up a custom trans crossmember out of some square stock.

I actually re-purposed the crossmember I was using on my 2001 Camaro with this transmission... I cut it down and welded back in pieces that made sense for the mustang.



 

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I don't know about needing a stonger than the stock double hump cross member. A close friend of mine has a 91gt (race car) that runs high 4s to low 5s in the 8th. probably making 4 digit hp #s and using the stock cross member with his powerglide. I think the tubular cross members are purely a looks thing.
 

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I don't know about needing a stonger than the stock double hump cross member. A close friend of mine has a 91gt (race car) that runs high 4s to low 5s in the 8th. probably making 4 digit hp #s and using the stock cross member with his powerglide. I think the tubular cross members are purely a looks thing.
if your buddy uses a Motor plate and mid plate(and I'll bet he does if he's making that kind of power)
then it really doesnt matter what Trans cross member he uses.....its just there to prop the tail of the transmission up just in case...it doesnt really hold any weight...its just there to control Lateral movement(which doesnt take much when you already have a very rigid engine mounting system... and most likely...some travel limiters.)

I bought my Foxbody bone stock 4 cylinder from a buddy who got it from a repo he did on a lady for non payment after she couldnt make her payments on it....
the stock Motor mounts were shot...and the trans crossmember, WAS BENT, which means the stock 4 cylinder had enough power to bend it out of whack.

the stock double hump works when everything else is mounted well and still in good shape....
but its not going to hold anything in place once other stuff fails
 

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Upr k member and solid mounts. No motor plate or limiters.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

solid motor mounts will make a huge difference......the motor doesnt move a whole lot and therefore the trans mount doesnt have to bear as much weight and force.

if they are using a standard rubber clamshell mount... the double hump will not be good enough in a higher horsepower car...




you have to have an understanding of what forces are at work to understand what is really in control on the vehicle parts.


and you should suggest to your buddy, to go to a motor plate....anything over 1000 hp and you can easily distort the cylinders with a set of solid motor mounts...its usually not enough to totally destroy your engine, but its enough to create a considerable amount of wear and tear that may keep you from having a long lasting engine
 

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I really like that mount. I have through the floor subframes already, so I'm going to look into something similar.
I used a 98-02 Camaro 4l80 Mount from Yank Performance, and I just hacked off the ends and modified it to work with the Mustang

I welded a 1/4" plate to the subframes, and then Just drilled thru and attached it with grade 8 nuts and bolts

honestly, with a Motor plate and mid plate... I really dont need anything other than a place to rest the tail of the transmission...
it will help with lateral movement and act as a mild travel limiter with having a poly mount on the tail shaft.
I'll probably make a Driveshaft safety loop in a similar manner...
 

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havent run exhaust past it yet... but......

I would say it will not cause any issues...


 

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I am using the stock double hump on my car. Mine looks fine also.

I would not be able get exhaust on my car without using it. I could not have it hanging 2-3" below the subframe connectors. my 3.5" is about 1/2' off the floor and hangs 1/2" below.

If I end up building a new one I will weld plates to the floor and bolt it to the them.

Tim
 

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I am using the stock double hump on my car. Mine looks fine also.

I would not be able get exhaust on my car without using it. I could not have it hanging 2-3" below the subframe connectors. my 3.5" is about 1/2' off the floor and hangs 1/2" below.

If I end up building a new one I will weld plates to the floor and bolt it to the them.

Tim

well.. I have this issue to begin with...
as low as I have the motor sitting....and the Heddman 2" longtubes....

it actually sits so that I will basically go straight under the trans crossmember without having to go up or down...it clears by about 1/4" to 1/2" if I come straight off of them.

 

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My headers don't hang below the rack mounts on mine. I didn't want to take a chance of banging the headers up when I stand it up.

Tim
 
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