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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alledgedly, there is not room for this, but I am skeptical. Im planning out a LS swap into a Fox Thunderbird, and trying to not buy anything that isnt 100% needed. Plus, Im personally not a fan of coil overs.

Im dying to see pics of the clearance between longtubes and the back of the a arm, so you can see if a factory one would fit. I cant do any fabrication on the car, but I can bring stuff to work, and have things welded. Worst case, if someone can show a pic that demonstrates a factory a arm wont fit, Im thinking you could weld half a tube behind the bushing body, and grind away behind it to allow for room.

I know someone will say, just buy it and get to it, but I try to do as much due diligence before I buy parts. Plus, it seems like a ton of people have done this swap, so you would think this info is out there.

Can anyone take a pic for me?

FYI, I called Team Z yesterday, and did talk to a polite young man, but he sounded like a helper, no personal experience.


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Edit, just looked at a pic of BRP headers installed from uynderneath, and there looks to be tons of room behind the control arms with those. Unfortunately, that is another one off kind of deal. Their headers are designed for specific use with factory k member, and CTSV pans only. May or may not work once you change anything at all other than that. I cant use the brp kit(nor would I pay $500 for it) because the Fox thunderbird K member is different from Mustangs.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I ordered a hybrid mount from Chuck W...Turbochuck.com: Motormounts

Basically a 4.6 mount for a 87-88 Thunderbird. Will go with one of the 4.6 plates and move forward once I verify the only significant differences between Tbird and Mustang K's are the mounts, and nothing in the area that would interfere w longtubes from BRP.
 

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I ordered a hybrid mount from Chuck W...Turbochuck.com: Motormounts

Basically a 4.6 mount for a 87-88 Thunderbird. Will go with one of the 4.6 plates and move forward once I verify the only significant differences between Tbird and Mustang K's are the mounts, and nothing in the area that would interfere w longtubes from BRP.
You could use these LS to 4.6 adapter plates and your 4.6 motor mounts:
LS1 Mustang 4.6 Swap Engine Mount Adapter Plate Kit - UPR Products
 

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Assuming that the Bird and the Mustang are much alike, why wouldn't a set of Mac 351 1 3/4 long tubes clear the control arms as they do on the Mustang platform. Guys are running these LT's with the addition of LS1 flanges all the time on Mustang/LS1 conversions without issues. Just food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I missed a set of the MAC's on ebay a week or so ago. Just forgot about it, and missed the end of the auction. I have welders at work that can do little stuff like this for me, so its probably the way to go. But do the mac's work with auto's? I seem to remember them being manual only...

Bottom line is if I can get some mac's cheap, fine, Ill give it a shot. But if I have to pay 250+ for the mac, plus flanges, plus all the time involved, plus it may not clear... Sometimes, you are just better off buying proven new parts.

And yes, planning on using the 4.6 plates, that was the idea all along. May get the Dirty Dingo adjustables.
 

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Well, I missed a set of the MAC's on ebay a week or so ago. Just forgot about it, and missed the end of the auction. I have welders at work that can do little stuff like this for me, so its probably the way to go. But do the mac's work with auto's? I seem to remember them being manual only...

Bottom line is if I can get some mac's cheap, fine, Ill give it a shot. But if I have to pay 250+ for the mac, plus flanges, plus all the time involved, plus it may not clear... Sometimes, you are just better off buying proven new parts.

And yes, planning on using the 4.6 plates, that was the idea all along. May get the Dirty Dingo adjustables.
I believe they fit with mounting the 02's 180 out so they dont hit the Auto bell housing. I have seen the Mac's fetch as low as $100 used. A decent set of LS1 flanges (3/8") will run you another $60-$70, and add another $10 for some new o2 bungs. Still under $200 which is great in my book.:salute:

The power glide seems to be the most problematic trans for headers and tunnel/linkage fitment. I believe you are good with the 4l60/80.
 

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i did the BBK 351swap headers with LSx flanges and they would not work with my TH350, sold them and got the Dynatech's. Put them in last night!
 

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i did the BBK 351swap headers with LSx flanges and they would not work with my TH350, sold them and got the Dynatech's. Put them in last night!
Ay idea if the 350 is wider than the 4l60/80 Transmissions?
 

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Using aje kmember, kooks long tubes and stock a-arms here no issues
 

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aje, BBK long tubes w/ls flange, stock arms and no issues
 

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you guys chiming in w/ the AJE k members what rack and steering shaft are you running?
I'm planning on the AJE k member, stock arms, '79/80 manual rack(already have) and stock shaft.
 
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