Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,599 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hi guys

do any of you have pics of how you attached the hoses at the nose?
(ideally lx nose)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,599 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks man. already running the ranger air dam so that should be relatively easy to do. not sure why i was thinking of grabbing the air from the nose instead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
694 Posts
I'm doing the same thing. I picked up some ducts from pagasus racing and cut the tabs off the top and bottom of the duct opening so they would fit within the height of the air dam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Another Option

hi guys

do any of you have pics of how you attached the hoses at the nose?
(ideally lx nose)
Another option is just to buy a hole saw to match your duct hose with a super long pilot drill and fab your own ducts in the lower nose. I built mine this way. Used size matched plastic work out water bottles cut to blend with the body line. Added a little mesh inside to keep out track debris. Painted black. Wasn't difficult. Just too a little courage to cut up a perfectly fine bumper cover. Below link to album with pictures - maybe not best close up but you can see the twin duct holes in them. This left me with easier removal the ranger air dam for loading on the trailer.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/members/14654-wlmrt66-albums-wlmrt66-pre-aero.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,599 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
cool although can you share some pics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Brake cooling ducts was one of the reasons I went with a Cervini Stalker nose on my 87 GT.

We spin metal at work, so I had the boys make up a pair of cones with the small dia matched to my 2.5" silicone hose (bought a Ford Racing kit for the '12 CS front fascia) and the other end to slide over the foglight fascia frame. Also modded the 14" duct inlet/brake disc heat shield to fit my SN95 spindles and clear the Cobra (now Brembo) calipers.

Make sure to blow the air into the center of the disc and hub, that will increase the lifespan of your bearings and discs.















Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,422 Posts
I used the Ranger air dam and some rectangular brake ducts and 3" hose to the spindle mounts. Only have a front on pic; this is on an 86 GT Vert.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
27,652 Posts
I've been through several iterations of using those long-taper $4.99 black plastic funnels, squared up in front and trimmed to fit a 2.5 inch hose.



When I went to a Ranger airdam, I cut holes and adapted the same scoops.

Crappy picture from the back side, drivers side of car




Now I have a Mach 1 chin spoiler, cut to fit another set of DIY scoops: http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/2092962-fwiw-mach-1-chin-spoiler-foxbody.html

The driving lights have since been removed so you can all STFU about them now :lol:














They all seemed to work. The old plastic scoop version was worth 100 degrees of rotor temp difference compared to the rotor that wasn't running a duct after it had been damaged and then removed. I don't have data on the new setup, and I've also since switched to Raybestos ST-47 pads. I've never experienced significant fade with that combo.

At the rotor end, I've used plain high-temp hose reshaped and pinched down to blow into the center of the hat:



And backing plates like these,



Which I later modified to direct the air into the hat:



None of that backing plate #### worked, and I've since ditched them.

Now, I've even cut the hose back so that it's a few inches away from the rotor, more like air deflectors I've seen on more and more factory applications. Between that, running Bosch rotors, and the ST-47 pads, I'm cracking rotors WAY less than before ;)
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top