Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Like the title says, how much hp/tq, or what ET would be a good limit to upgrade to something stronger?

Also what type of D/S would be next for an upgrade?

I know alot of people use them, as I did but I'm talking 9s, 8s, or dare I say 7s as for what that limit they can take?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,226 Posts
I have heard of nmra renegade guys still running them well into the 8's. I use one in my coupe...hope to hit 9's soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,474 Posts
I've ran 570ft-lbs of torque through mine. I've had it for 7 years and havn't even had to replace the U-joints. I'm pretty sure I have 100k on it too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
I know back in 04 my buddy Steve Torkelson at the Outlaw Real Street Nationals at Byron broke a U-joint on his Denny's Nitroustick, so he borrowed a Motorsport one from Bruce Hemminger. It lasted the few passes he needed it too, but it started twisting the yoke and was pretty hard to pull out of the trans when we were done. This was on a stick car that hit the tires VERY hard tho...1.30-1.32 60's. I would say in an auto car, you'd have no problem as I don't think they shock the drivetrain as hard on the initial hit as a stick...

This car was making 600 HP and a shade over 850 lb/ft of torque at the wheels as well...gotta love a 250-275 shot of dry nitrous...lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
8.5s sound pretty fast for a FMS D/S, so maybe it'll hold...

I have one, I just hate to get everything together and end up busting it. If need be, I'd almost rather sell it and get a good one unless this one will hold up to what I plan on putting it through.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,251 Posts
^^ im in the same delimna

Im hoping for solid 9's with it... i almost bit the bullet and went carbon fiber, or cheap and went stock steel.

but after it was said and done i bought another FMS alum.
Good price, decently light, and plenty of guys have went faster on it than im trying to do.

not to mention im also an auto so hopefully it wont hit as hard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,465 Posts
Had a buddy running 9.97s in a LX hatch full weight toss his at NMRA Bowling Green last year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
410 Posts
8.5s sound pretty fast for a FMS D/S, so maybe it'll hold...

I have one, I just hate to get everything together and end up busting it. If need be, I'd almost rather sell it and get a good one unless this one will hold up to what I plan on putting it through.....
Dude! Your car/build is way to nice/powerful to even be thinking of using that driveshaft. You would be better off taking your chances with the stocker! If you do some research on them you will hear about some (well, more than some) people having success and going really fast with the fms driveshaft. Renegade racers using them and people going 8's for years with them. The problem is that it is totally hit or miss and there are dozens of 400hp cars that have mangled them. Allow me to possibly save you some time and put up some "food for thought" I have saved from back when I was in the market and researching them (sorry, no links):

"well i guess im the only one that runs 9.70s at 3150lbs, and took the ears clean off the FMS aluminum shaft...funny thing is the car goes faster with a steel shaft that weighs 8 lbs more?"

"I, after having read and seen so many FMS/Ford driveshaft explosions, decided that when it came time to get a driveshaft done for my car with the twins, I wasn't going to spare any expenses. Rather than getting my FMS aluminum driveshaft shortened and rebalanced, I decided to have one remade. Why? Strength!!! The FMS unit comes with .111 wall thickness with 1330 yokes/joints. The 1330 isn't that bad, but .111 wall thickness is TERRIBLE. IMO, any car running 500+rwhp should have a driveshaft with a thicker wall thickness. Because they're so thin, if you ask Ford, they'll tell you they're really only rated to about 450-500 horsepower. Granted, thousands of people have probably used them beyond that, but there's enough breakages that I'd rather get something stronger."

"Well guys in the quest for an 11 second motor ET tonight I just destroyed my brand new two week old Ford Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft. "

"a friend of mine just this weekend pitched his aluminum one out. it broke one of the front ears off at the u-joint. his car weights 3000 ish, and 60's low 1.40's. jason smith at pa, said anything that 60's good it will pitch it."

"my buddy twisted 2 in a weekend @ little over 800 hp and ran 9.teens @145-147mph"

"I broke one and twisted another and at the time my car was only making 800 RWHP. One of the shops where I took one of the DS to be repaired showed me the thin wall thickness that FMS uses and it was totally not acceptable. I had a custom steel one made and have been happy since."

"my friend has twisted 3-4 aluminum shafts and has gone back to a steel one"

">>choice is either a ford motorsports aluminum one or my stock one.
Keep the stocker. I busted my Vasco input shaft but the driveshaft lives on."

"I have a friend that twisted a fms aluminum drive shaft. Right at the starting line It had been in service for a while. The car normal went mid to low 11`s @3100 with 1.50 60 ft launching @ 5000-5500rpm. After he broke it went to swap meet and bought a stock steel one with no problems breaking."

"I've seen FMS aluminum DS fail on stock Stangs, usually at the u-joint coupling. But I've also seen them run without problems on several cars making 500+rwhp. For me it was Carbon Fiber hands down."

"I was racing at the track last week & destroyed an aluminum driveshaft. when it let go it banged up the undercariage pertty good on my prestine 93 Cobra. More info on why/how it broke: Launching off the 2-step for the first time & on new ET Drags. 1.57 60ft on the second run (dead hook), 1.63 on the pass that the DS broke. "

"I tore up an FMS driveline just like 93PONY did. The two "eyelets" that hold the U-joint "spread" and allowed the U-joint to twist out. It probably would have been a low 1.6, high 1.5 60'... You know, if I would have made it that far. It broke halfway through 1st gear. Banged up my undercarriage pretty good (I have a safety loop, but the driveline broke at the rear)."


So, I guess you gotta ask yourself, do you feel lucky??


Troy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Troy, I appreciate you taking the time to supply me with all of the info and examples. Hopefully this will help out others as well.

I really hadn't taken the time to do much research yet, but after some of the previous responses, I knew that I did need to at least look into it. There are obviously alot more examples of people twisting/breaking the FMS driveshafts than I had expected.

I also appreciate you not throwing in the "well, do ya punk?" :rofl:

Thanks
Terry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Well I dont run single digits or anything..lol, but I have broke 4 ford motorsport alum. d/s. We then went to DYNOTECH..www.dynotechengineering.com, awsome drive shafts. NEVER had a problem again. Give them a call. ALOT of guys in the NMRA are running them, me included.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,708 Posts
Buddy of mine had one in his car with a stick and a Vortech T Trim, Dart Block 347, then added a bottle, then switched to a C4 with a trans brake, car ran low 9's on a horrible 1/8 pass, then later went [email protected] in the 1/8, probably would have ran 8's with that 1/8 mile. 18 psi from the t trim and a 150 shot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
Same dilemma here, 9.42 at 150 MPH, going back to a custom steel, I've heard too many horror stories about the FMS Aluminum's. I have one in the car now, but NOT for long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,110 Posts
terry, go up to mikes driveline an talk to him. He made one for me when I was only pushing 580 rwhp/ 630 rwtq thru a AOD. I twisted the ear right off the driveshaft. I had him make me one with with a better yoke an 1350 u joints.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top