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I had the front tires chocked, and the car jacked up under the torque arm so I could change the fuel filter. I went to get my jackstands and WHAM the ############ of a jack squirted out from under the torque arm and the panhard bar caught it as the car fell. Yes, that bent bar is supposed to be straight. Track event coming up Saturday. No way to get a new bar here in time. What's an enteprising fail-jockey to do? Dismount the bar, turn it upside, down, and jack it up (mostly) straight again, that's what. ####er.


 

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I have one in my garage. It is a Kenny Brown. You can borrow it if it will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I appreciate it but I think I'm good for now. I got it mostly straight, and since I'm only running street tires I don't think I'll be generating enough load to bend it more. I'll secure a replacement eventually.
 

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Mine is 42" long. It is only adjustable at one end but it looks very similar.
 

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What brand LCA's are those?
 

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I'd take it to one of the many sand rail fab shops here in PHX and have them weld in a new tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Those are Maximum Motorsports adjustables, and I dig the hell out of them. As for the bar, I could sleeve it for now, or get another one cut and threaded, but I'll just get a replacement bar from MM and not worry about it in the short term. I'll get a pic of how it looks now, later on.
 

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;) Looks like what I did to the tie rod on my Jeep. MFE, I found some super sticky sandpaper/non-slip stuff at Tractor Supply(I think....maybe Lowes/Home Depot). I stuck it on the bottom of my torque arm to help prevent accidents like this. While the stick on stuff isn't bullet proof(as it shows signs of being jacked up), I've been able to push and pull the jack and move the car around with the ass end jacked up now.

I carry the now un-bent tie rod with me as a spare. However, I did shove some round stock steel in the hollow tube to aid in reinforcement. I'm using a SOLID STEEL tie rod bar, so I don't see it bending any time soon, though.

Oh, and maybe fix that diff leak/seep. ;) How in the world do you pass tech with that!!!!11 LOL!!

 

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I had the front tires chocked, and the car jacked up under the torque arm so I could change the fuel filter. I went to get my jackstands and WHAM the ############ of a jack squirted out from under the torque arm and the panhard bar caught it as the car fell. Yes, that bent bar is supposed to be straight. Track event coming up Saturday. No way to get a new bar here in time. What's an enteprising fail-jockey to do? Dismount the bar, turn it upside, down, and jack it up (mostly) straight again, that's what. ####er.
BTDT, got the T-shirt (and the new PHB). ;)
 

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Where are you guys(the ones that have experienced this misfortune) putting the jack under the torque arm? Ar you putting it BEFORE the angle/bend, or after it?

I put mine where I can see the back of the round jack-pad(cup) contact just before the bend so that the majority of the flat part of the torque arm is on the pad/in the circle.
 

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Try a hockey puck.

It depends on the jack but I put a hockey puck in the saddle of the jack. It sits above the metal prongs on the saddle so the chassis, frame, whatever rests on the rubber puck. I've found that it helps prevent the jack from slipping.
 

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He'll hafta have one seriously LOW PROFILE jack to be able to get the jack with a puck on it under there. I suppose driving up on blocks is an option, but I like the convenience of being able to just shove the jack under there and start pumpin'.

It's marginal, but when the tires get down to the wear bars I hafta kinda give it some encourgement(shoving)to get it under there. ;)
 

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MFE, did you try looking for a bar at any local circle track supply shops? IIRC, in Texas, it was easy to find aluminum tubes which had been threaded on both ends of varying lengths.
 

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Yeah, that sucks.
I had the jack slip off the tubular K-member, and crack the power steering rack right into 2 pieces. Worst part was it was at Road America, and took out the whole %$#@#$ weekend. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
MFE, did you try looking for a bar at any local circle track supply shops? IIRC, in Texas, it was easy to find aluminum tubes which had been threaded on both ends of varying lengths.
I haven't tried, because I don't have the time and because the bar is pretty damn straight now. I have time to secure a new one before I dial up the loads with R-comps again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The jack that slipped was a low-profile aluminum jobby with a (slippery, oil-soaked) pad in the middle of it. I have always just placed it under the flat portion of the TA with never a hint of slip. This time, no luck. So I hauled out the giant 2.5 ton steelie I have, and placed its saddle so that it cradled the TA under the weld where it transitions from the flat rearward portion to the angled forward portion.
 

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Those are Maximum Motorsports adjustables, and I dig the hell out of them.
I was wondering, when the LCA is curved like that, does it affect the anti-squat / instant center? I'm guessing "no" (because the fore/aft pickup points are unchanged) but WTH I'm no physicist. . .anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was wondering, when the LCA is curved like that, does it affect the anti-squat / instant center? I'm guessing "no" (because the fore/aft pickup points are unchanged) but WTH I'm no physicist. . .anyone?
It wouldn't matter if they were pretzel shaped, as long as the pickup points are located in the same place, so the LCA's themselves can't change the IC for any given ride height. You need to relocate the pickup points with different brackets in order to do that.
 

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Nope, straight line between 2 points is a straight line (even if its curved...)

 
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