Well, I have finally (I hope ) gotten myself ready. The car....not so much but we will be on the course and I'm excited. All started from a neighborhood kid that thought I'm cooler than I am. I bought the car and parts. He has done most of the work. Simple things and we will add more as we break ground in these events. Sure wish I had some better wheels and tires. Lol.
Fill us in on the suspension setup. Those 8" stock wheels are way too tiny. What tires are you running? I have a good source for big, cheap used road racing slicks. You can fit big tires on SN95s, so get some XXR wheels and go big.
Don't worry about the wheels and tires just yet. Just go and have a good time, knowing that the overdriving mistakes you'll likely make will be tearing up less expensive tires. Tires that you aren't going to care about "using up" as much as the typically shorter-lived $300 (each) tires that you'll most likely end up running on.
Awesome thanks for the replies. Here now. And in heat 2.
Suspension mods at this point are just hr race springs and max caster plates. Tires are junk from when we bought it. After watching some I just hope they last five lasts. Lol.
Well what a learning experience. And I'm glad after all these years the neighborhood kid pushed me to do this. But now I'm hooked and so is he. So, after reading.....what square setup works well with the 95 mustangs. I've removed the front inner fender. And is there any way to get a 18x11 +20 in the front? And if you can't is in better to run 18x10 on all four corners. Saw a guy fit 18x11 +20 on his 94 cobra. Thanks
Home - GT Racing Tires / GT Track Days
I've used them in the past to get used R-comp take offs. The Continental GT-Rs are great, durometered the same as a Hoosier A6 when hot. They say the Pirellis are even softer and faster.
I've found a IRS from an 03. With the proper mods does this setup perform better then the straight axle. I've read the MM swap results and seems that it may be worth the effort. Curious to corral racers experience. I have a TA and PH items and I'm ready to either sell those and jump to the IRS if it's the best long term setup. Thanks for any help.
I ran the IRS under my 01 Cobra but settled on the MM stuff under my Fox. Once the bind is removed from the Fox's rear the ride quality and hence ability to articulate over irregularities improves tremendously. When compared to the Cobra, there was not much difference in steady-state. Both the Cobra IRS and T/A equipped fox did stuff over highway joints and other irregularities; but did them differently. And the Cobra's IRS was stock. Fixing some of the issues with band aids increases NVH, and decreases ride quality at the expense of improving hard launch and corner carving compliance. In my view, you are moving toward the center of the spectrum with both rear suspensions. You just start at different ends with the two.
Since you already have the T/A stuff, and the IRS will need crutches, I'd stick with the T/A. It works very well especially for your intended use. Concentrate on seat time; go to driving clinics. As this stage in your development, you'd be surprised what better car control can do for your times than either the T/A or IRS.
Spend your money on seat time. Once you can drive your current setup to the limit then fix the weakest link and start over. The car will tell you what to do.
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