Yes I did, but still no change which lead me to believe I have a vacuum leak.
That's wrong if you have the blue top Ford 24# injectors which are M-9593-A302. Stick with the injector data I gave you. You have a problem elsewhere.Yes I did, but still no change which lead me to believe I have a vacuum leak.
I found other injector data over at EFIDynotuning. I’m thinking of giving it a shot see what it does. I used the data for the M-9593-A302 injectors but Decipha has different data listed for the 93-95 cobra injectors. It’s definitely different, check it out.
John, the ones I have are ford blue top. However they have a different part number (F1TE-D5A). Would those be that same as the M-9593-A302?That's wrong if you have the blue top Ford 24# injectors which are M-9593-A302. Stick with the injector data I gave you. You have a problem elsewhere.
Don't quote me on this but I was told the part number on the injector is for the injector itself (F1TE-D5A) and the part number John posted is Ford's Manufacturer part number (M-9593-A302) which is for the kit consisting of 8 injectors. To answer your question, they are the same.John, the ones I have are ford blue top. However they have a different part number (F1TE-D5A). Would those be that same as the M-9593-A302?
That is true. More vacuum will result in a larger correction as it's more unmetered air.when i was chasing a lean condition on b1, it was the stupid breather cap all along. but my correction was about 10-13%. probably has something to do with what kind of vacuum the engine is pulling. drove me crazy.
I had time to mess with the car today. I pulled the PCV and the hose on the intake tube and plugged them both, it made no difference in PI corrections. Then I removed and plugged the hose that goes to the vacuum tree with the PCV still disconnected and still no changes in the PI. I then grabbed my torch and ran it across the lower intake, upper intake, throttle body, basically everywhere around the engine and still saw no change. Just to confirm that the torch would actually show a difference in the correction I put it in front of the intake air filter and sure enough the PI correction dropped to about 10%. Other than that everything else I tried showed no change. Could it be possible that the bottom of the intake gasket is leaking and sucking air out of the lifter valley? and if it is possible what would the chances of that happening? I don’t think I’ve ever heard of that happening. I also have a set of 60lbs injectors I can swap out for the 24lbs just to eliminate those as a possible problem. Any other suggestions? ThanksIf you were to bypass the PCV system momentarily, you might be able to cross a number of possible leak areas off the list quickly: front and rear main seals, front and rear intake manifold-to-block gasket/seals, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil cap, dipstick tube-to-block, distributor gasket... basically any seals for the crankcase itself. Just pull the PCV valve hose off the bottom of the intake and pull the other hose off the filler neck. Cap the bottom of the intake manifold. Plug the hose that comes off the inlet tube. (You still want the crankcase to be able to breathe, but you don't want to pull a vac on it nor do you want to introduce a new leak.) Only issue with doing this is you will reduce the amount of air you're sucking in for idle speed as you're no longer drawing air through the PCV system. However, Closed Loop ISC should correct for it fine just idling in the driveway. If your fuel corrections drop substantially with no PCV system in play, then your leak is in the crankcase somewhere like the areas I mentioned above. If the corrections don't change, then you can cross those items off. Start looking at other places like all the injector O rings, brake booster, the throttle blade pivot points (these all leak a little... it would need to be a substantial leak)...
John, I never switch the car to open loop. The “write up”/ instructions to setting fuel doesn’t say to switch to open loop. This is the procedure I follow based on instructions.Possible, yes. I think it's unlikely though. You'd likely be sucking in and burning oil too if that were happening.
Without actually having the car in front of me, this is tough. Exhaust leaks can cause false lean readings. Lemme ask this... does the car run better when the fuel correcting is taking place? In other words, does it run better in closed loop when adding 22% fuel compared to running in open loop when there is no correcting at all? (The wideband gauges themselves will read lean in open loop with no correcting.) If the engine doesn't run better in closed loop, or if it in fact runs better in open loop, you likely have a false lean reading.
Fuel pressure set at 39.5, not delta fuel pressure.Sorry. What I'm talking about wouldn't have been in a writeup anywhere. Based on your above comment about the stumble, I'm gonna guess that it's not a false lean reading, but this is the procedure I'm talking about.
I expect you'll see the gauges jump up to something like 17.9 if it would normally be adding 22% more fuel. If that's a correct reading, the engine will not run well. (Again, based on you're comment on the stumble, I think it's gonna run poorly.)
- Disable adaptive fuel (if it's not already)
- Clear adaptive fuel (do this just to be safe anyway)
- Under Fuel > Closed Loop > Configuration -- set Closed Loop Fuel Control to Disabled
- This will let the engine run in open loop which means straight off the MAF with no correcting no matter what the widebands detect.
Forgive me if we covered this already... fuel pressure is 39-40 with the vac line off the regulator? Are you running the pro m delta p fuel pressure sensor?