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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, well its been a long last month or so,long story short:

Blew a head gasket (Bad) in between # 6 & 7 cylinders (other side had a crack too) Melted aluminum between chambers on head. Head was Pooched.

Walls, and pistons *LOOKED* Mint.... Put it all back together with studs not bolts and a new head...smoked so bad out the brethers it filled the shop...

Rings are smashed to pieces??? Not sure yet but I still have to take it all apart again..!!!! dam. I could move the piston in the bore..so ya the rings must be destroyed right???

So whats some REAL world feeback from building a "real man block" motor???

How many specialized parts do I need for the Boss 302 block?? and/or Dart.

How much machining for both? Lifter Boss tops too??

I'm gonna sell my dream car- I'm a student- (66fairlane race car, bought last fall) to just build this car insane and go real fast, almost wish it was an automatic so I could go real fast with the big boys here, but I love rowin gears!

Thanks Chris
 

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dart block,they both require about the same machining about 6-800,check out adperformance I think brian has great prices on machined blocks ready to go.either way get your wallet out...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ya no kidding bust open the wallet... My last experience with brian wasn't a good one...but everyone has their bad days.

I am leaning towards a dart block. I am hoping to just build a block/assembly and then reuse everything else from my old combo, with some minor tuning I'm sure.

Are there any specific parts needed to put the dart motor in my 94???
 

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what is your budget and how fast do you want to go?

I would at least do a 9.5 deck height motor nowadays

X2 on the 9.5" deck block. If your replacing just about everything anyways, you might as well spend the money on a bigger block. There just aren't enough drawbacks not to. Makes it a little more challenging to fit under a flat hood, but thats about all the negatives.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not going to lie, I had non-boosted gaskts in it, from when the motor was NA. I had the Felpro 1011-1's. I now have the 9333pt1's...apparently they're great for boost?? and head studs as well.

I really don't wanna change any of the other stuff, like heads and intake and such. Just block and rotating assembly.

my car made 540rwhp and 520ish torque. It went 11.41 @ 120 into the wind. On a normal day it would go 125. I was gradually getting slower though...making me think it was a gradual engine failure??? like slowly bleeding the boost by the rings? I am fairly confident that when the block comes apart the rings will just pall apart as they come out of the bores.

will everything else I have fit with that bigger block?? ( the 9.5)
I really like my stock hood...lol

Chris
 

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nope need a few other things like oil pan, dizzy, intake, headers, accessory brackets, drop motor mounts will help some also
I used the stock brackets off my 302, just had to add a little onto the power steering bracket.
 

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will everything else I have fit with that bigger block?? ( the 9.5)
I really like my stock hood...lol

Chris
Well, there's actualy alot of stuff you will need to swap in a taller block, from water pumps and bracketry, to the lower intake. I personaly run a 8.2" R block, but wish I would have spent the money on the bigger 9.5" block.

Its going to initially cost more for the 351 block, and if you are pretty sure your not going to go wild with it, a 302 based motor will work just fine. But if you think sometime down the road you might want more cubes, now is the time to do it with the bigger 351 based block.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah the 9.5 I think is way outta my price range, due to the cost of all the added parts. I am working on a career/house so ya keeping as many parts the I already have is crutial.

I really wanna make a bad ass 9.5 block, and hang with the local big dawgs, but its just not feesible right now.

Im gonna keep it a 347, I don't wanna break my new trans and diff with some crazy ass 9.5 motor, then having to do all the drive train...again. lol.

347, with no more lame 5600 rev limiter (stock block) and maybe do a pump gas tune and a race gas tune with a little more boost??

I'll just do the block and rotating assy. and essentially "slide" it under what I already have.

Now the question is a dart sportsman or iron eagle. or world??? or R302???

any ideas?? opinios as to what to use and what to stay away from??

Chris
 

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Now the question is a dart sportsman or iron eagle. or world??? or R302???

any ideas?? opinios as to what to use and what to stay away from??

Chris

of the four you listed, they are all about equal. Well, the Dart sportsman being the weakest, and the Iron eagle probably being the strongest, but all of them will handle 4 digit power and more. The new Boss block is another option, as is an A4. Only problem with the A4 is it lacks the ability to be bored out as much as the others listed. The ability to go to a 4.125 or bigger bore like the others means you can bore it out a few more times before you get into the expense of sleeving it. A 4.060 bore is about as big as the A4 can go. Not a big deal, but something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the ideas. Also what would would be a better combo forroughly 10-12 psi on a 347, that will only see roughly 6500 or so rpm?

a big bore short stroke 347

or the kit i have now, a .030 over 302 with the llong rod (6.7) I think and a 3.4 stroke???

Everyone now a days seems to be talking about these big bore short stroke kits, which weren't really available when I bought my rotating assy.

is the big bore kit engineered for mainly high rpm screamer motors?? like N/A twisty track cars???

Chris
 
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