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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

It seems that bang/buck, throwing out the clutch fan and getting an electric fan is advisable.

Found a mark viii fan at the junkyard,
now, as I presume that it was pcm controlled? I just need an aftermarket controller.

There is a fixed-temperature controller that autozone offers for the mark viii:
Compressor Works/Electric Fan Thermostat (733652) | 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII 8 Cylinders V 4.6L SFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

As I understand it, that is of the type that cycles on and off? I.e., it can only do one speed, so it has to let the engine overheat, then it turns on, and when the engine is overcooled it turns off again. Let the engine overheat, repeat. By "overheat" I just mean, that 15deg range from 170-185F-- rather than keeping something more constant.

This could be bad for the fan, annoying for the driver, like a laptop fan that cycles on and off erratically, but if it works really pretty well, and it IS cheap...


My other option is a pulse-width modulated controller, that can match the fan speed to the cooling power needed. Rather than cycling between 100% speed and 0%, on and off, something that can maintain 50%, or 60%, or whatever's needed, and just run smoothly at that speed would be best!
But i haven't found a unit for less than $120, and that's off ebay.... And my whole engine project (of which electric fan conversion is just a part) is already thoroughly overbudget.

What's your experience with either type of fan controller, and what do you recommend?
 

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I use a variable current/speed controller from Welcome to Delta Current Control . Works unbelievably well - I wouldn't use anything else on mine. Controls dual 11" SPAL fans on the radiator as well as an 8" fan on the oil cooler.

You are spot on with your analysis - relays/switches with big motors are extremely hard on the whole electrical system - wiring, connectors, fan motors, battery and alternator because of the all on/all off surges and induced currents. Variable controllers eliminate all that -- AND maximize your gains from reducing parasitic losses as they only spin the fan as fast as necessary to maintain a given temperature. They also stabilize operating temperature into a much smaller range than you get by switching the fan off and on with thermal switches that typically need to be 5-10F above the t'atat temp -- and then have another 15F range between opening and closing.

Be sure you have enough alternator - the stock fox body 65A unit won't get it done - even with the variable speed controller. Especially during the dog days of July/Aug there near DC.
 

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DCC are quality and USA made! But, if you cant wait at least 30 days for it DCC is not in you're best interest.
 

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Not too good to have a 90 day warranty (from the time of purchase) and then it takes a month and a half to get it. Half of the warranty is gone.

Not to say you'd need to use it but if there was a problem....
 

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+2 on DCC. quality made controller. I can't see this failing from defects or daily use. Got mine hooked up to a 2 speed 2004 Mustang fan on my fox body. works great. Like Michael said the best part is the variable speed of the controller. Only spins what is needed to cool. And definitely upgrade the alternator. I got mine off a Taurus from the pick-a-part for $30. Used some 8 gauge that I had around the house and some fuse link and I was in business.
 

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If you need it in 3 days instead of maybe when the planets align and the manufacturer damn well feels like it, you can order an FAL 33054 pulse-width modulated soft-start VSC for $100 from Summit. Supply some wire and a mega-fuse for the main fan power and you're on your way.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
alright: no, this build is going together this week: I'd really rather not "hope and pray!"

There's this system:
Flex-a-lite 31165 - Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controllers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
and then this:
Flex-a-lite 31163 - Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controllers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

The latter, for $54, simply includes a temperature sensor that taps directly into the engine block. The former has one of those radiator fin probes.

A direct temp sensor is going to be more accurate, but at this point that $54 does matter. I'm running out of funds; I budgeted $800 and have spent $1500 (redone exhaust, machinework, all the peripherals like motor mounts and aged vacuum lines... adds up!)

I presume I already HAVE just such a temperature sensor, for the dash temperature gauge. Can I just splice the fan speed controller into that? Will it work correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
as I understand it, that temperature sensor is a thermistor... will it always read the same, correct voltage, and even if I hook in another device (the fan speed controller) which will rob a portion of the output current from the sensor, the voltage will remain correct, and it should all work fine?
 

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Yeah, within reason though. Ive seen more than too many threads regarding people having to wait forever for this guy to deliver. Why bother when there are products that do the same job just as well?
 

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I love my DCC controller! came in 1 week and when I needed a extra sensor (tore off my wires) it also came in a week.

6 years and going strong.

Brad
 

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alright: no, this build is going together this week: I'd really rather not "hope and pray!"

There's this system:
Flex-a-lite 31165 - Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controllers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
and then this:
Flex-a-lite 31163 - Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controllers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

The latter, for $54, simply includes a temperature sensor that taps directly into the engine block. The former has one of those radiator fin probes.

A direct temp sensor is going to be more accurate, but at this point that $54 does matter. I'm running out of funds; I budgeted $800 and have spent $1500 (redone exhaust, machinework, all the peripherals like motor mounts and aged vacuum lines... adds up!)

I presume I already HAVE just such a temperature sensor, for the dash temperature gauge. Can I just splice the fan speed controller into that? Will it work correctly?
The more expensive one also handles a higher load. I wouldn't use the cheaper one on that fan.
 

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I'm with MFE. I bought a 33054 off Summit and had it in under 3 days. Thing works like a charm and was almost stupidly easy to install. I'm not one to wait around for an undetermined amount of time after sending money off.
 

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